You’ve just built your dream home, but the dust and debris left behind is a nightmare. After the hammers stop swinging, a deep clean is essential to make your new abode truly livable. This article explores the vital service of after builders cleaning, equipping you with the knowledge to start fresh in your newly minted property.
Defining after builders cleaning
An after builders cleaning is an extensive deep clean performed after construction or renovation work. This differs from a regular home cleaning, which is a lighter clean involving dusting, vacuuming, and routine chores.
An after builders clean shares some similarities with an end-of-lease clean in terms of the thorough, deep cleaning required, but differs in that it focuses specifically on post-construction messes rather than preparing a rental property for new tenants.
In general, you need deep cleaning after renovation and remodelling, especially for new home construction to clean up after the debris and construction waste left behind. Most exposed surfaces like floors and countertops also need to be cleaned and disinfected.
What does after builders cleaning involve?
After a construction project, the last thing you want to deal with after a building inspection is a messy and dusty space. That’s where end-of-construction cleaning comes in. Here’s what you can expect:
End-of-construction cleaning professionals will remove dust, plaster and debris left over from construction.
They will also remove trash, clean countertops, flooring and other surfaces once fixtures have been installed.
For commercial buildings, building cleaners may use specialised equipment like industrial sweepers and floor polishers instead of standard vacuum cleaners.
After builders cleaning process
An end-of-build clean typically goes through two cleaning phases.
After builders cleaning is necessary for commercial properties as well as residential / Sion Cleaning Services
Initial clean
The initial cleaning is the first phase, usually midway through the building’s construction. For instance, cleaners might clear the walking spaces in new construction of dust and debris before workers can install new flooring. The initial phase also involves removing all trash from the property at the end of the construction project.
Most of the time, workers themselves load and haul off their own trash, but some contractors may hire a post-construction cleanup service to do the job.
Final detail clean
This is a more thorough cleaning process that involves removing minor construction defects. For instance, final detail cleaning workers will remove paint splatter from windows and also straighten crooked grout lines. They may also remove grout haze from tiles and floors.
In addition to fixing slight workmanship defects, cleaners will clean and scrub bathrooms and kitchens, including all furnishings and appliances (if any). They will also sweep, vacuum and mop floors according to their surface type.
This stage often takes longer than the initial phase just due to the volume of cleaning work, depending on the size of the building and its architectural style. For instance, a property with intricate, detailed design may involve more work.
Contact local cleaners
Things to consider when getting an after builders cleaning service
Get professional help to clean your new property | Source: iStock
When hiring professionals for an after builders clean, consider these four important aspects for a satisfactory job:
Services included: Verify what specific services are included in the construction cleaning service package. This may cover dusting, mopping, cleaning windows/mirrors, sanitising bathrooms, and more.
Cost: Get quotes from multiple providers and understand after builders cleaning prices—per hour, per square metre, flat rate, etc. Bigger projects may qualify for discounts.
Timeframe: Inquire about their typical turnaround time for jobs of your size. Generally, the time required for post-construction cleaning depends on the size of the space. A smaller one requires a few days to clean, while larger buildings may take a few weeks to complete.
Qualifications and insurance: In Australia, the qualifications and training for after builders cleaners can vary by state. In addition, your cleaners should have the following insurance coverage:
Public liability insurance – To cover third-party injury or property damage.
Professional indemnity insurance – To cover errors and omissions in their work.
Workers compensation insurance – If the business has employees.
Services included
The services offered by cleaning companies may vary slightly. However, most builders’ cleaning companies provide the following services:
Clean doors and door frames
Polish surfaces and woodwork
Deep clean all hard flooring
Clean all tubs, toilets, fixtures, and showers
Remove grout from all bathroom fixtures
Clean paint spatter from all surfaces
Clean all windows
Remove debris from drywall
Clean and polish mirrors
Remove all the garbage left behind from material packaging
Wipe down all stairs and handrails
Clean all kitchen appliances, which includes refrigerators, stoves, dishwashers, and microwaves
Clean cupboards, closets, and wardrobes
Other cleaning services that an owner might need, such as fireplace or chimney cleaning
Larger buildings with more debris typically cost more than smaller projects. Many businesses charge by the square metre, ranging from $5 to $10 or higher per sqm. The cost can be higher or lower based on the project’s scope or how the company structures its pricing.
It’s also important to factor in the cost of after-builders cleaning when setting your overall renovation budget. Obtain quotes from multiple businesses to compare builders’ cleaning prices.
Timeframe
The timeframe for after builders cleaning varies, mostly on the size of the property and the number of cleaners. As mentioned above, the interior design and architectural style of the structure may also factor into the timeframe; notable examples include Victorian and Colonial styles, which require more maintenance and care.
In addition, if the construction crew tended to be careless or wasteful, leaving a lot of trash or debris behind, the cleaning could take much longer and be more expensive.
Qualifications and licencing
There are no national-level licensing requirements specifically for post-construction cleaners or cleaning services in Australia. However, local regulations can vary and certain certifications can enhance a cleaner’s credibility and business prospects.
For instance, the CPP30321 Certificate III in Cleaning Operations is a nationally recognised qualification that equips individuals with essential skills in cleaning and sanitising various environments, including commercial and residential spaces.
However, some states and territories in Australia may require specific qualifications.
Even in states and territories where a licence is not required, training courses might be. Such training teaches potential workers which recycling measures must be taken. Workers also learn how to manage waste material and government compliance regulations in regard to the environment and public safety.
From dusty to dazzling with after builders cleaning
From top to bottom, a professional after builders clean restores order from the chaos of construction. With expertise in debris removal, deep cleaning, and meticulous attention to detail, these services ensure your newly minted abode shines. And you don’t have to do it yourself—entrust it to seasoned after builders cleaning pros who can bring out the best, most pristine form of your dwelling that it deserves to be.
FAQs on after builders cleaning
How can I prepare for new home cleaning?
Clear away any remaining tools, materials, and large debris before the cleaners arrive. Protect valuables, remove fragile items, and communicate any specific areas of concern.
Is after builders cleaning different for new constructions vs. renovations?
While the core cleaning process is similar, post-renovation cleaning often involves more contained messes like drywall dust, while new constructions have site-wide debris. Specific services may vary.
What are some common areas that require extra attention during an after builders clean?
Areas like ductwork, appliances, cabinets, and windows often need extra attention to remove embedded construction grime and dust. Specialty after build cleaning may be required for fireplaces or intricate surfaces.
The first step in any new home construction or redesign is finding a professional designer who will help make your dreams a reality. This is not something for the amateurs; you need to go pro if you want to get the most practical, beautiful home out there for you and your family. That means you’ll need to either employ a building designer or an architect. However, this process can be tricky – and it’s not one you can afford to mess up. We’ve put together a guide here that will help you choose which type of designer is best and how to find the right one.
Qualifications
Architects and building designers are both qualified to design buildings, but there are some legal differences between the two. An architect is required to have the following:
Successful completion of required university courses specific to the architectural field
Acceptance and up-to-date membership (with all current fees paid) in the state board of architecture
Necessary insurance licenses and registration/certification documents
Building designers aren’t required to have any of these things, but they do need to be licensed from an appropriate state building board, such as a Building Services Authority, and they have to be fully insured with the requisite policies. These legal requirements are nationwide and were implemented for the protection of consumers.
Although it’s not required, a large number of building designers also join distinguished professional organizations, such as the Building Designers Association or the Royal Australian Institute of Architects. In order to join, designers have to prove their competency, and membership is an added cachet that can help inspire consumer confidence.
Architects and building designers can create detailed renders of your building plans / Source: Artin Design
Who is more competent?
Builders and architects should be judged by their individual competencies and merits. As with architects, many building designers have established a stellar reputation through years of accomplishment and enthusiastic client referrals. Likewise, some building designers or architects may be more comfortable designing commercial buildings rather than residential homes. Otherwise, you should consider the two designations as being completely equal and go from there.
Finding the right building designer or architect
When contacting a building professional, you’ll first want to get their references and credentials. Your builder should be fully insured and licensed to work in the state where your building site is. Look for membership in reputable professional organizations; these are always a plus. Check referrals and ask for photos of similar jobs. If the building designer or architect is new in the profession, ask for copies of preliminary studies and design drawings.
After establishing credentials, discuss your design specifications to determine if this particular professional can accomplish the results you’re looking for.
Contact local building designers
The price of a designer
Odds are that you’ll never find two building designers with the same type of fee structures – they’re usually very dissimilar. They might offer a fixed or an hourly fee, first off, and the cost will be dependent on the varying levels of service they offer. Basic services might only include a consultation, site visit and design and would only include the most bare-bones drawings. More advanced services generally include consultant use and the design of the landscape and interior, along with the electrical layout. Eventually, you’ll likely be charged a percentage of the total price of the project. A rough estimate might come out to 7.5% of the total for full service or around 5% of the total for basic service. Don’t forget to get an upfront look at the fees before you sign any contract.
A beautiful bathroom is your private sanctuary, a place for long, relaxing baths and pampering. It may be one of the smallest rooms in the house but it’s one with a lot of components and should be one of the most considered spaces when renovating. If you’ve decided to update your bathroom, some careful planning can go a long way to ensuring your end result is what you’ve been dreaming of.
Here are some things to consider when planning your bathroom renovation.
What do you want to achieve?
Are you looking to create a luxurious space that feels like an exclusive spa, or do you need a practical bathroom that will meet the needs of a family of 5? It’s important to start your planning process with your goals in mind to ensure you and your family’s wants and needs are met. Who will be using this bathroom and will their needs be met? Think about what are absolute must haves and what you’re prepared to compromise on. Write a list of what you don’t like about your current bathroom so that you can rectify these problems in the next.
Start your bathroom renovation planning with the end goal clearly in mind / Source: Ryan Linnegar Photography
Budget
Knowing how much you have to spend is critical when planning a renovation. Can you afford a total remodel or do you just want to change the vanity and fixtures? Having a budget will make it much easier to determine your parameters and will ensure you get maximum bang for your buck. The size of the space, the materials you choose and whether you’re going to be doing any of the work yourself will affect the cost of a renovation.
Get inspired
Look for design inspiration in magazines, online or in showrooms. Keep your goals in mind, along with the rest of your home – the bathroom should ideally continue the flow of the décor. You don’t want your bathroom to quickly date so be wary of trends. Do your homework and find classic, timeless designs you’ll love for a long time to come. Collate a collection of inspiring images, get samples and actually see the products where possible instead of just looking online. Utilise visual rendering technology where possible to give you a better idea of what your finished bathroom will look like.
Design & layout
In a space as small as a bathroom, design and layout is critical to ensure functionality and usability. You don’t want to end up with your knees hitting the edge of the bath every time you use the toilet or a tiny shower that you’re disappointed with. Get familiar with the space you have to work with and once you have a preliminary design, ensure it’s to scale.
There are lots of space saving ideas for a bathroom. Things like corner vanity units can really open up your space or having a sliding door instead of a traditional hinged door can work wonders.
Determine the focal point of the bathroom when you enter the room and be sure to plan for quality materials and fixtures in this area. The primary fixtures are the toilet, sink, bathtub and/or shower stall. Think about clearances, such as the shower door hitting the main door. If you are laying in the tub, do you want to be staring at the toilet? Also, where are the utilities such as water, sewer and electricity located? The less you have to move existing utilities or run new ones, the more economical the bathroom will be.
Some things other questions to consider:
Is there adequate ventilation?
Do I want a wet room or a shower screen?
Is the shower large enough?
Are there enough windows and do they need to be moved?
Is there enough storage space?
Is the bath large enough?
Is there enough natural light?
Are there enough power outlets?
Is there enough benchtop space?
What will the height of the sink be if it’s a bowl sink?
Lighting choice is critical in a bathroom. You need to have different lighting for different functions – a bright light for applying make-up and soft, muted lighting for a luxuriously long soak in the bath. Be sure to include layers of decorative, task, accent and ambient lighting to achieve a beautiful yet practical design that will meet all of your needs.
Timing
If you are project managing, plan your trades and services in the correct order to avoid costly mistakes. If you’re doing a lot of the work yourself, make sure you’ve done your research. The more mistakes, the longer it takes, and the longer you’ll be without a bathroom and using the gym showers.
Have everything you need
Before you take to your old bathroom with a sledgehammer, make sure you have everything you need on hand. It can be a long wait for those porcelain tiles from Morocco to arrive when you don’t have a usable bathroom. Check that all of your materials have arrived undamaged so you don’t hold up progress having to get replacement materials at the last minute.
Spend money wisely
Assess what can be saved from your existing bathroom. If you can work with some of the things you’ve already got you’re going to save a considerable amount of money. Tiles can be re-grouted, baths can be resurfaced and walls can be painted, there are lots of things you can do to refresh your space without doing a total demolition job. Just changing the vanity unit or the fixtures and fittings can really transform a bathroom.
Don’t be tempted to buy the cheapest options available for everything. Buy quality where you can and splurge on a few key pieces that will really set the tone of the space and add to its luxury.
Think about whether you absolutely need to move the location of the shower, toilet, bath and vanity units – doing so may mean you need to need to move the plumbing which can be costly. Sometimes it’s absolutely worth doing but you need to weigh up. Perhaps you could upgrade the toilet instead of moving it, or change the old shower screen to a sliding screen. There are plenty of ways to improve your space without spending a fortune. Be smart with your budget and it will stretch a whole lot further.
Contact local bathroom renovators
Storage
Clutter isn’t appealing in a bathroom and can quickly ruin your carefully planned aesthetic. Those tacky plastic hangers for shampoo and conditioner can be avoided if you plan to have a recessed area built in to your shower. Choose your vanity unit wisely and in accordance with your storage needs. Whilst pedestal basins may look fantastic, they aren’t exactly practical if you’re short on storage space.
Think about what you keep in your bathroom now and plan for plenty of space, especially if the bathroom is being used by multiple people. Consider options such as recessed cabinetry, vanities, medicine cabinets, over the toilet storage, and eye level shelving to keep your bathroom looking organised and provide a place for everything.
Do you need to have plans drawn up or council approval?
Depending on the extent of your renovation, you may need to have plans drawn up or gain local council approval. Most councils allow for minor changes that don’t alter the structure or services such as plumbing, drainage and electrical, however it is always best to check what your local government’s policies are.
Every room in one’s home is important. However, if you’re someone who spends a lot of time in the kitchen and loves to cook, it’s essential that you get your kitchen design completely right. You may have heard it before, but, in the end, it’s the way we perceive and organize the kitchen (and every other room, for that matter) that will affect the way we feel about it. Therefore, if your goal is to make healthier meals and enjoy the process and the environment at the same time, you should be very careful not to make the following kitchen design and remodeling mistakes.
The question of open shelving
Open shelving is beautiful and it can make your kitchen come to life. This is especially true if you have some unique items that you want to show off. On the other hand, not every kitchen item you own should be on display. Some things are best kept in closed kitchen cabinets. Therefore, possible mistakes are having either too much or not enough open shelving. Try to create the perfect balance for your kitchen space.
Lighting solutions
In order to achieve the best possible look in one’s home, expert designers advise three types of lighting for almost every room. This is especially important for the kitchen. Of course, you need a ceiling light as your main source of brightness. However, that’s not enough for a warm and comfortable space. As you’ll be cooking and preparing meals there, you also need task lighting. These can be LED strips at certain spots. Moreover, if you’re going for a specific style for your kitchen redesign, accent lighting is another type of lighting that you’d probably want to consider. If you neglect the last two solutions, your kitchen won’t be properly lit and can lose its cozy feel.
Of course, we all enjoy stainless steel kitchen elements. You should definitely invest in a stainless steel oven and a fridge since these will be more durable and easier to clean. Also, a stainless steel dishwasher is the perfect choice for a modern kitchen. However, no matter how much you value the modern look, you shouldn’t go overboard will stainless steel. Apart from the mentioned appliances, using stainless steel for every single surface and appliance in your kitchen can create a room that’s too cold and uncomfortable to spend time in.
Cabinet installation & organisation
In general, the kitchen requires plenty of room for storage. However, it’s very important that you pay attention to the way the cabinets open and the place you want them to be. One of the biggest design mistakes involves the unfortunate cabinet placement where the cabinets next to each other cannot be open at the same time. This is something that you want to keep in mind if you wish for your meal prep to proceed smoothly.
As you’re already aware, the kitchen is the place that probably has the biggest number of electrical appliances in the entire home. In that respect, you should think about the appropriate number of electrical outlets as well. Unfortunately, this can easily slip your mind during the remodeling process. Therefore, it would be best to have some kind of a reminder so that you can address this issue as soon as possible. You don’t want to finish the whole remodeling process only to find yourself stuck with just one or two available outlets.
Contact local kitchen renovators
It’s never a good idea to rush into the remodeling process if you don’t have everything worked and planned out. Therefore, make sure to decide on a specific look so that you can effectively discuss the best options with your contractors and finish the project as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Renovations are great for a change of scenery, update old facilities and most importantly, provide an increase in the value of your home. That value, however, can be severely diminished if you end up spending more than your finances can handle.
With that in mind we’ve put together a guide on how to spend wisely on your next home renovation without blowing the budget.
1. Estimating value
As a rule, you should not spend any more on a single room than the value of the room as a percentage of your overall house value. To do this, you will of course, first need to get an estimate of your home’s value.
For instance, if your home’s overall value is $800,000, (the median Australian house price) and you want to renovate your kitchen, which accounts for between 10-15% of your property’s value, then you should aim to spend under $120,000 – or 15% – on your renovation.
Plan and allocate your budget according to which room will ad the most value to your overall property / Source: Ryan Linnegar Photography
It’s also worth keeping in mind that some rooms scale to add more value than others. For instance, while the kitchen is often cited as the make or break room, it offers amongst the lowest return on investment, whereas a moderate bathroom makeover can almost double the money spent.
2. Look at loan options
If you’re borrowing money for your project, make sure you look at what deals are available and what types of loan will work for you. It might seem like common sense, but taking the time now to research your options and choosing one works for you will certainly save you money down the line.
If you’re unsure, speak to a professional who can provide you with the financial advice you need to make an informed decision.
3. Research quotes from contractors
Talking to a professional builder/contractor is the fastest and often the most accurate way to assess the total cost of a project. Start a conversation with a few trusted providers, and use their experience and understanding of the finer aspects of a renovation to accurately assess the cost of a project.
4. Follow the plan
While you’re in the middle of a renovation, it can be easy to get caught up in the excitement of a project and start thinking about other ways you can add value to your home. Always remember to take a step back and see how these changes would affect your budget and timeline. Reviewing the plan is the best way to avoid blowing your budget as even small additions to a project can carry unexpected costs.
5. Create a buffer
There are always unexpected costs lurking around the corner of any construction project, so provide yourself with a buffer of extra cash to take care of these items. It only needs to be 10% of the total cost of the renovation, however, that 10% can make all the difference in the event of accidents or other setbacks outside of your control. Rather than having to dip into your savings or borrow extra money if the builders need more time or if a window or fixture gets broken and needs replacing, using your emergency fund can save you money in the long run.
An emergency “buffer” fund is essential for any renovation budget / Source: Geoff Comfort Photography
6. Consider all the costs
Keep in mind, when you get an estimate from your builder, it will typically cover only the base price of construction and materials without factoring in the price of interior finishing. In order to finish your home, you’ll have to factor in additional costs for interior fixtures such as these:
Flooring
Window treatments
Lighting and fixtures
Landscaping services
Driveways and pathways
Utility connections for your electricity and for appliances such as phones, computers and television
Water, sewerage and garbage disposal costs
Ground excavation for the build
Cabinetry and appliances for kitchen and bathroom
Energy-efficient additions such as added insulation, solar panels, solar-heated water systems and tanks to collect rainwater
To help control your budget, talk to your builder and find out how many of these interior fixtures are included in the estimate. If they aren’t, ask if your builder can recommend professionals who can do these jobs for you at a reasonable price.
Contact local home renovation experts
7. Keep your expectations realistic
It’s crucial to be realistic about the things you can and can’t have in your new home. For example, if you’re on a strict budget, you probably won’t be able to splurge on granite benchtops in your kitchen or bathroom. With all the luxury accessories, fixtures and materials available, it’s easy to get carried away and fall in love with everything you see, but you can quickly end up ruining your entire construction project if you don’t keep the spending in check. From the very start, you need to look at how much you’re paying for the site, and add on the base construction price. Whatever is left in your budget can be used for interior finishing, but be sure and set a budget by parceling out an appropriate amount for each area. Don’t start shopping for these goodies until you’ve set strict monetary limits on each section of your list.
The good news is that, with auctions, online auction sites and clearance sales, you can still get luxury items well within your budget. Just use your bargaining skills to locate great deals, and keep your eye open for discontinued stock.
It’s no doubt that at some point, you’ll need to hire a trades or services professional. The technicalities of some trades and services are easier to understand than others, and some use jargon and terms that you may not have heard of before. Whether it’s an emergency job or a planned project, it never hurts to be a little more informed.
Rather than sitting there dazed and confused by the amount of words you don’t know how to comprehend, we’ve put together a handy dictionary of terms to help you learn the lingo.
A
Absorption Field – A leeching or seeping field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) – An ABS is in the form of a black plastic pipe that is used in plumbing for drains and vents.
Adaptor (Plumbing) – A fitting that connects two pipes of different sizes.
Adjustable Hot Limit Stop – This stop restricts the output of hot water in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding, which is done by limiting the swing to the hot side.
Aerator – An insert that is screwed onto a faucet outlet which mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.
Aggregate – Type of crushed rock used as a top layer in some flat-roof applications.
Air Admittance Valve – A device used in plumbing that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter inside the pipe and equalise the pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.
Air Chamber – A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a valve or faucet.
Air Gap – The Air Gap’s purpose is to prevent backflow contamination in drainage systems.
Airbrick – A perforated brick which is used for ventilation, especially for under-floor spaces. They are usually used in older houses to provide ventilation to pantry’s.
Angle Iron – Structural steel bent at a 90-degree angle which is used to fasten or reinforce framing joints.
Arborist – A tree surgeon.
As-built plans – As-built plans show how the space was constructed, including any changes that have been made from the original house plans.
Asbestos– A highly heat-resistant fibrous silicate mineral that can be woven into fabrics, and can is usually used in brake linings and fire-resistant and insulating materials.
Auger (or Closet Auger) – An Auger is a bendable rod with a curved end and is used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.
Whatever home project you’re tackling, it’ll pay to learn some lingo / Souce: LG Builders
B
Back Flow – Back Flow occurs when water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.
Back Flow Preventor – The device used to prevent Back Flow (see above), especially into a potable water supply. It is usually required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pull-out faucet spouts and kitchen sprayers.
Back Pressure – Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.
Backfill – The soil or gravel used to fill in against a wall or foundation.
Backup – Occurs when there is an overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.
Baffle – An object placed in an appliance to change the direction or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.
Balancing Valve – This is a water heater valve that controls the level of water flow and balances the heat distribution to a number of locations.
Ball Check Valve – A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop a flow in one direction.
Ball Joint – A Ball Joint is a spherical assembly in shower heads that allows it to rotate and pivot.
Ballast – Generally mixed on site with cement to form concrete for the smaller jobs around a building site. It is made up of pebbles and either frit sand or sharp sand.
Ballcock – A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling the tank. Connected to a float via a metal arm, the toilet refills the tank until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve after flushing.
Bannister – This is the railing of a staircase, made up of the hand rail, spindles and base rail. Blow Torch – Used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurised fuel and air to generate the flame for the torch.
Barge Board – A brick cut crossways to give a reduced length. It can be cut in quarters, half or three quarter bats.
Bidet – A Bidet has a similar appearance to a toilet bowl. It is a plumbing fixture used for personal hygiene, which is floor mounted and usually next to the toilet. It consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.
Bleed – The process of draining a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.
Blackwater – Waste water coming from a toilet.
Blowbag – A drain-cleaning device that consists of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. This device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water flows in, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. It is also known as a blowfish.
Blowdown – Occurs when partial venting or draining under pressure, on the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. The pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.
Boiler – A sealed tank where water is transformed into steam for heating or power.
Boiler Feed – A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.
Bonnet – The top portion of a compression valve assembly that holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat the other end of the assembly.
Boxing In – Generally refers to the construction of a timber frame carcass around heating pipes, internal soil stacks etc.
Brackish Water – Contains bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.
Branch Drain – A fixture used in plumbing that leads to the main drain line.
Brass – A slang word for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.
Brick Bonds – A pattern of bricks to ensure stability of the brickwork – with the most common bond called a stretcher bond.
Brickie – Slang or colloquial language for a bricklayer.
Burst Pressure – Describes the internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.
Bushing – A fitting that is threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.
Buttress – The process of thickening a wall to form a vertical projection to strengthen the wall.
C
Caulking – Describes the task of sealing joints and openings by applying a flexible compound or sealant – commonly known as decorator’s filler.
Cavity Wall – Usually in construction for external walls, Cavity Walls comprises of an inner and outer wall – also known as leafs – with a space between, being the cavity, filled with insulation.
Change Order – A written document which officially modifies the plans and specifications of the construction contract.
Chippie – A Chippie is a slang or colloquial term for a carpenter.
Circuit – In electrical terms, an electric circuit is a path in which electrons from a voltage or current source flow.
Cladding – A covering or coating on a structure or material.
Cleanout Plug – A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access to clear an obstruction that may exist.
Closet Bend – A curved waste pipe that fits under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.
Closet Flange – A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend (see above). It is also known as a Floor Flange.
Collar – A galvanised sheet metal restricting device that is used in conjunction with a plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.
Collar Tie – A horizontal board attached perpendicular to rafter.
Compression Fitting – A type of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube. It is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering.
Contingency – Refers to the backup budget for unseen/unpredictable additional costs during construction.
Conveyance – The legal process of transferring property from one owner to another.
Corbelling – Corbelling is the projection of masonry formed by building successive courses outwards by a small amount to form small steps with each additional course.
Coupling – This is a short fitting used to join two separate pipes.
Courier – A company or employee of a company that transports packages and documents.
Coving – Usually made of plaster, Coving is the moulding around a room at the junction of a wall and ceiling.
Cowl – A short fitting used to join two different pipes.
CPVC – CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, which is a black plastic pipe that can withstand high temperatures. They are mostly used in water supply systems.
Curtain Drain – Trenches filled with gravel covering perforated pipe, acting as a gutter system to remove unwanted water away from a house. The trench is lined with filter fabric to ensure that the perforated pipe remains free of clogs from dirt and silt over the years.
D
Dam – A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the amount of water in the toilet bowl.
De-humidistat – A control mechanism needed to operate a mechanical ventilation system that is based on the relative humidity in the home.
Decking – The timber platform or terrace attached to a house or other building.
Diaphragm – A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the body to regulate the water flow from supply lines. Diaphragms eliminate the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.
Diffuser – A device used to reduce velocity and increase the static pressure of a fluid passing through a particular system.
Dip Tube – A tube inside a water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.
Diverter – A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet straight to the shower head.
Dope – Dope is a lubricant that is used by plumbers on pipe threads.
Doublehung – The window frame on doublehung windows are operable – meaning they can move up and down. The sashes on a doublehung windows also tilt in for easy cleaning.
Downspout – A Downspout is a pipe used for draining water from roof gutters. It is also known as a leader.
Drain-Waste-Vent System – A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.
Drip Edge – A non-staining, non-corrosive material that is used along the eaves and rakes to allow water runoff to drip clear of underlying construction.
Drywall – Also known as plasterboard, gypsum board and wallboard, Drywall is the flat surface of most interior walls – to which you apply paint, wallpaper or tiles.
E
Easement – A formal contract which allows a party to use another’s property for a specific job or purpose.
Eaves – The part of a roof that meets the walls of a building, also known as the edges of the roof that hangs over the face of a wall.
Eaves Flashing – The additional layer of roofing material that is applied at the eaves to assist in preventing damage from water backup.
Edging strips – Describes boards that are nailed along eaves and rakes in order to provide secure edges for reroofing.
Efflorescence – Unsightly powdery white salts brought to surface of brickwork.
Effluent – Septic system liquid waste.
Egress – Describes the exit of the home. For example, an egress window is required in every bedroom and basement.
Elbow – A 90 or 45 degree curved fitting, used to change the direction of a pipe run. It is also known as an “ell”.
Escutcheon – A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in a fixture or wall.
Estimate – Describes the anticipated cost of a job, which can include the cost of: materials, labour, construction, remodeling or repair.
Excavate – The process of making a hole or channel by digging.
Exposure – Describes the portion of a roof that is exposed to the weather after it is installed.
F
Faucet – A device for controlling the flow of liquid from a pipe by opening or closing an orifice.
Fitting – Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. They come in many shapes, sizes and connection styles.
Fixture – Describes anything that accepts or discharges wastewater or water.
Flange – The edge or rim at the end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.
Flapper – Describes a rubber flap with a ball-like shape at the bottom of a toilet. It lifts to allow flushing and seals the tank off for refilling. It also allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.
Flashing – A metal sheet which is usually made of lead. It is used to deflect water at a junction between roofs and walls, or around chimney stacks etc.
Flex Coupling – A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the ends of pipes. It is mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.
Float Ball – A floating device connected to the ballcock inside a toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.
Flow Control Valve – A device designed to reduce the amount of water flow into a plumbing fixture. It is often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.
Flow Rate – The measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).
Flux – A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. It is applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.
Frog – Concave ‘V’ shaped indent on the top of a brick.
Learn some tradie terms for your next home project / Source: Renomate
G
Galvanising – The process of applying a zinc coating to a finished product to protect it from corrosion. The coating can be applied by
Gasket – A flat device usually made of fibre or rubber, and used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.
Gate – A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe or tunnel.
Gate Diverter – The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.
Gauge – Describes the thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to grades of quality with certain types of lavatories and sinks.
Glazing bar – A thin bar shapes to receive panes of glass within the main frame of a window.
GPF – GPF stands for Gallons Per Flush. It measures the rate of waterflow of toilets and flush valves. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF.
Gravity Operated Toilet – A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.
Gray Water – Waste water from fixtures other than toilets.
Grease Trap – A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. It is usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.
Gyprock – A building material used for making the surfaces of interior walls, consisting of sheets of compacted plaster with a covering of plasterboard.
H
H Clip – A small metal clip formed in the shape of an “H” that fits at the joints of two plywood sheets. It is normally used on roof sheeting.
Hanger – A device used to support pipes.
Hard Water – Describes natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of the presence of calcium, minerals of dissolved solids in a solution – measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.
Hardware – Refers to tools, machinery and other durable equipment.
Hazard Insurance – Insurance that protects against damage caused by windstorms, fire or other common hazards.
Heatpump – This device transfers heat from a cooler area to a hotter area by using mechanical energy. For example, in a refrigerator.
Heating Load – The amount of heating that is required to keep a building at a specific temperature during the winter.
Hearth – Describes the area directly in front of a fireplace that is fireproof. It is usually made out of brick, tile or stone.
Highlights – A light spot, area or streak on a surface.
Hip Roof – A type of roof that is formed by sloping roof planes on all sides.
Hip Shingles – Types of shingles used to cover the inclined external angle that is formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Hose Bibb – An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.
I
I Beam – A type of steel beam with a cross section in the shape of the letter “I”. Typically used for long spans such as a double garage door.
ID – Stands for Inside Diameter. It measures the inside width of a pipe.
Impeller – A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. It spins at a high speed, which draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.
Incandescent Lamp – A type of lamp that employs an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat.
Insulating Glass – A window or door that insulates by having a sealed air space between two panes. It is also known as Double Glass.
Insulation – To insulate is to protect something by interposing material that prevents the loss of heat or intrusion of sound.
Interceptor – A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.
Interior Finish – The material used to cover interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.
Interlocking Shingles – A type of roofing shingle, which is shaped and installed so that adjacent shingles lock each shingle into place.
Irrigation – Describes a lawn sprinkler system.
J
Jack Stud – A stud that has been cut down to be placed above and/or below an opening. It provides support to the lintel trimmer and sill trimmer.
Jamb – Describes a side pot or surface of a doorway, window or fireplace.
Joinery – The wooden components of a building, such as the stairs, doors and door and window frames – viewed collectively.
Joint Compound – A term used in both plumbing and carpentry. In plumbing, it is a material applied to threaded connections to help prevent leaks. In carpentry, Joint Compound is a wet gypsum material that is applied to sheetrock joints.
Joist – A length of timber or steel supporting part of a structure of a building, typically arranged in parallel to support a floor or ceiling.
Jumpers – A type of water pipe installed in a water meter pit, or electrical wire that is installed in the electric house panel meter socket before the meter is installed.
K
Keeper – The metal latch plate on a door frame where a doorknob plunger latches.
Keyless – A light fixture made of plastic or porcelain that operates by a pull string. They are generally found in attics, basements or crawl spaces.
Kilowatt (kw) – The metric for 1000 watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit that is used in measuring electrical consumption.
kPA – A metric unit for pressure, where 100 kPA = one atmosphere.
L
L Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a blue strip. Type ‘L’ copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type ‘M’.
Laminating – The process of bonding two or more layers of materials.
Lattice – A framework of criss-crossed wood or metal or metal strips that form patterned spaces.
Leach Lines – Leach Lines are pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field; a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.
Lintel – A horizontal structural device that supports the load over an opening such as a window or a door.
Load-Bearing Walls – Non-load-bearing walls are walls that simply divide rooms. They are able to be knocked down or relocated.
Low Consumption Toilet – A class of toilets designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. They are also known as “water-saving” toilets.
Louver – A vented opening that leads into the home, that has a series of horizontal slats.
Lumens – Lumens is a unit of measure for total light output, which is the amount of light that falls on one square foot.
M
M Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a red stripe.
Main – The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. It is also referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.
Making Good – A general term referring to the repair of plaster and decor after. For example, forming a new doorway into an existing wall.
Manifold – Describes a fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.
Mapp Gas – A colourless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.
MCL – Stands for Maximum Contaminant Level, and describes the maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.
Metal Fatigue – A type of breakage of metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.
Mezzanine Floor – Means an extra floor, possibly inserted between the floor and ceiling of a very tall room.
Mitre Joint – An angled joint that is similar to that in a picture frame.
Mullion – An upright post between window frames.
N
Nail Inspection – A type of inspection that is made by a municipal building inspector after drywall material is hung with nails and screws.
Natural Finish – A type of finish that is transparent, which does not seriously alter the original colour or grain of the natural wood.
Nesting – The method of reroofing with new asphalt shingles over old ones in which the top edge of the new shingles is butted against the bottom edge of the existing tab.
Newel – Vertical post at the top and bottom of a staircase to support the handrail.
Nipple – A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.
No-Hub Connector – A connector for a no-hub iron pipe that consists of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps.
Nogging – A short piece of timber used to stiffen timber partition walls horizontally between the vertical studs.
Non-ferrous – A term used when something does not contain iron.
Non-fibered Aluminium Roof Coating – A thin but efficient reflective barrier that is designed to reflect the sun’s harmful rays and to prolong the surface life on roofs.
Non-fibered Roof Coating – A coating that gives added protection to low-sloped roofs, as well as metal and masonry surfaces.
Nosing or Bull Nose – The rounded edge of a stair tread projecting beyond the riser or the finished edge of a window board.
O
O-Ring – A rubber washer that is rounded instead. O-Rings are used in valve systems to create a watertight seal.
Oakum – Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with an oil or other waterproofing agent. It is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.
OD – OD stands for Outside Diameter. It measures the outside width of a pipe.
Outrigger – Describes the extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. It is usually characterised by a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.
Overhang – An outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof, which is the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outdoor wall.
Overflow Hood – The decorative hood concealing the overflow on a bath drain.
Overflow Tube – Describes the vertical tube that exists inside a toilet tank that directs water in the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow.
P
Panel Beater – A person whose job is to beat the bodywork of motor vehicles.
Parapet – The low wall at the edge of a roof.
Partition – A structure dividing a space – especially a light interior wall.
Party Wall – A wall separating two buildings owned by different people.
Patio – An outdoor area, usually paved, adjoining a house and used as an area for lounging or dining.
PB – Stands for Polybutylene. It is a bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.
PE – Stands for Polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line.
Pebble Dash – An external wall which is rendered, then finished with stones or pebbles applied to the render.
Pergola – An outdoor structure designed to shade the area.
Persuader – Slang name or nickname for a hammer.
PEX – Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE (see above). In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.
Pilaster – Projecting part of a square column which is attached to a wall.
Plain Tile – A rectangular-shaped flat roofing tile.
Plaster – A gypsum or lime-based mixture added with water that is applied to walls or ceilings to create a smooth hard finish when dry.
Plasterboard – Prefabricated sheets of plaster between two layers of paper for applying to walls and ceilings.
Plinth – Projecting base to external walls. It is also used to describe the board around the bottom of kitchen units.
Q
Quarry Tile – An unglazed floor tile, typically of a reddish-brown colour.
Quarter Round – A term that is typically used in the flooring industry, which is a convex moulding that contains a cross section in the form of a quarter circle.
Queen Closer – A brick cut in half lengthways which is also referred to as a closer.
Quick-setting cement – An asphalt-based cement which is used to adhere tabs of strip shingles to the course.
Quote/Quotation – The price provided by a service provider to complete the job specified.
R
Racking Back – This is the practice of building the ends of brick walls to a height of several courses, which essentially provides a level string line for filling in the courses between both ends.
Rafter – A structural timber rising from eaves to ridge to support pitched roof coverings.
Raking or Raking Out – This describes the task of removing old mortar from in between brickwork to allow for new mortar to be applied.
Rebar – This term is short for “reinforcing bar”. It refers to the ribbed steel rods that are placed in concrete foundations and retaining walls that give the structure extra support.
Reducer – A fitting that allows different sized pipes to be joined together.
Relief Valve – A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in a system.
Relieving Arch – An arch that is constructed above a lintel or beam to take the weight of the wall above.
Remodel – To remodel something is to give it a whole new purpose. For example, converting a coat closet into a powder room.
Render – The external sand-cement coating for walls.
Renovation – Renovation is making something that is old; new and improved. For example, updating the master bathroom with new tiles and fixtures.
Restoration – Returning something to its original state, such as pulling up the carpet and sanding and polishing the hardwood floor.
Return – A plumbing fitting with an 180 degree bend.
Ridge – The top of a pitched roof.
Riser – A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.
Roof Pitch – Describes the slope of a roof, usually expressed as an angle or ratio.
Roof Truss – Prefabricated structural timer framework to support roof covering.
Roughcast – Describes an external wall coating consisting of a cement-based render with either stones or pebbles mixed into the mortar.
RSJ – Stands for Rolled Steel Joist, which is an ‘I’ section steel beam.
S
Scald Guard – A type of valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology.
Scale – A thin coating of layer on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent the transfer of heat.
Sediment – The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank, which can also be known as lime.
Septic Tank – A type of tank that is used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. They are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.
Shutoff Valve – Valves that are installed under sinks and toilets and are used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. It is also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop of Supply Stop.
Siphoning – The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.
Sleeve – A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.
Soft Water – Water that has been treated so that is has low mineral content.
Soil Pipe – A pipe that carries waste from toilets.
Solder – A member of the legal profession who is qualified to deal with conveyancing, wills and other legal matters.
Sparky – Slang term for an electrician.
Sweep – A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.
T
T&P Valve – A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.
Tailpiece – The section of a pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.
Tee – Describes a plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T”, used to connect three sections of pipe.
Tee Fitting – The fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90 degree angle.
Teflon Tape – A type of white tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. This tape possesses non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.
Timber – A type of wood prepared for use in building and carpentry.
Trap – Describes the curved section of a drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom.
Trap Seal– The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.
U
Ultraviolet Degradation – The reduction in certain performance limits that is caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet light.
Undercoat – The coating applied before the finishing or top coats of a painting job. It is also known as the Prime coat.
Underlayment – A secondary layer of roofing that is water resistant. It is installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles.
Union – A fitting used in plumbing that joins pipes end-to-end so that they can be dismantled.
Upholstery – The process of fitting furniture such as sofas and chairs with springs, webbing, padding, fabric or leather.
V
Vapour Retarder/Barrier – A substance that prevents the transmission of water vapour.
Veneer – A thin layer of wood that is laminated or glued onto a surface to give the beauty of solid wood.
Verandah – A place that leads to the outdoors, which usually has the characteristics of a spacious, long, narrow structure which also has room for tables and chairs.
Valve – A device that regulates the flow of water.
Valve Seat – The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.
Vent – A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air, and also lets air into the drain system to keep the pressure balanced.
Voltage – A measure of electrical potential.
W
Water Closet – Another name for a toilet.
Water Table – The location of the underground water. It is also the vertical distance from the earth’s surface to the underground water.
Water Hammer Arrestor – A device that is installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that occurs when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing a loud banging noise in the pipes.
Wax Ring – A seal that is located between the floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.
Weatherisation – Describes the work on the exterior of a building in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling. It can involve caulking cracks, installing weather-stripping and installing storm windows and doors.
Wet Vent – Describes a pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains – it also connects two or more fixtures.
Whirlybird – A roof ventilator to cool the house.
Wye Fitting – A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45 degree angle.
Y
Yoke – Describes the location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes.
Z
Z-Bar Flashing – Prevents water from getting behind the brick and into the home.
Zone Valve – The device placed near the heater or cooler which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the property.
Zoning – A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property.
With this dictionary of trades and services terms, you are able to become more informed when making decisions on different jobs and projects to come. Knowing exactly what the service provider is talking about can save you a world of hassle, time and even money.
