Sunflowers are one of the most beautiful plants that you can grow at home. As long as they have enough light, they can shoot straight up in the air with bright yellow flowers that point towards the sun. Before running out and buying some seeds or plants, give some thought to how you’ll grow this flower and make sure that you have the right lawn or garden.
How to grow sunflowers
Sunflower soil
The first thing to know about growing sunflowers is the soil that you need. You’ll have the most success if you have a low to mildly acidic soil. It should have a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. Most home improvement and landscaping stores have kits that let you test the acidity of the soil.
If you find that your soil is more or less acidic, consider growing sunflowers in pots. Using pots gives you more control over the soil and allows you to make sure that you have the right soil. You can always move the pots to provide the plants with more sunlight too.
When to plant sunflowers
The sunflower season in Australia typically starts in early January and ends around the middle to the end of March. People come from all around the world to see the fields in bloom.
Planting sunflowers in pots gives your more control over the soil / Source: Shutterstock
How to plant seeds
When you choose seeds rather than plants, you want to plant each seed between .38 and 6.3 centimetres deep in the soil. This distance puts the seeds close enough to the surface that they get the light that they need but deep enough that they absorb the necessary nutrients from the ground. Though you can plant them deeper in the soil, this is the optimum depth.
While a field of sunflowers in bloom can turn heads and create an impressive display, planting the flowers too close together will keep them from growing. The plants fight with each other to get the nutrients they need. As they grow, they will not get the sunlight that they need either.
You’ll want to plant the seeds around 15 centimetres apart from each other to give them enough space. If you’re going to plant a field, use up to three plants per row.
Companion planting
Companion plants let you create a better sunflower garden or landscape. Most lettuces are a good choice because they don’t need the same nutrients and won’t get in the way of the flowers. Lettuce also makes a great ingredient in many dishes. Other companion plants that you can choose include squash, kale, onions and cucumbers.
How long do sunflowers take to grow?
You may want to know how long it takes sunflowers to grow because you want to know how quickly you can enjoy the blooms. These plants take an average of 80 to 120 days to grow from seed. Plants take between 60 and 80 days to bloom.
Looking after sunflowers
Water and sunlight requirements
Sunflowers are an excellent choice for Australian gardens because the plants do not need a lot of water. During the germination process, the seeds need roughly 2.5 centimetres of water every week. Even if you forget to water them daily, they should still thrive.
Once you have sunflower plants, you’ll want to use around 15 centimetres of water per week. When watering the plants, use a nozzle that gives you more control and aim it in the direction of the plants. Add enough water that the top few centimetres of the soil are moist. As the soil absorbs the water, it will reach the roots of the plants.
As sunflowers grow, the flowers start pointing towards the sun. The plants need a minimum of six hours of sunlight every day up to eight hours. If you use pots, you can move the plants into a spot where they’ll get more sunlight.
Contact local gardeners
Pests to look out for and protect against
Certain types of pests can attack the sunflowers in your yard. Many of these are insects that will eat the leaves and flowers as well as the roots and stalks. Beetles and maggots are incredibly common. It would help if you also watched out for caterpillars and some types of moths.
If you worry that you can’t leave the sunflowers alone in your yard, using a pesticide can help. Organic pesticides work well and will not damage any nearby plants.
Staking sunflowers
The biggest problem with growing sunflowers in Australia is that the stalks aren’t strong enough to support the weight of the blooms, which is why you need to use stakes. Choose stakes that are roughly half the height you expect the finished plants to grow to give them enough added strength. Giant sunflowers are much larger and need stakes that are both taller and wider. You can use gardening twine to secure the flowers to the stakes.
Sunflowers are a bright and eye catching addition to a garden / Source: Shutterstock
Harvesting and pruning
You typically want to prune a sunflower plant twice a year. Pruning this often ensures that the flowers have the space that they need and won’t grow into each other. The best time to prune the plants is in late January or early February. You need to remove the leaves growing on the stalks and any smaller flowers sprouting on the sides.
Harvesting the finished plants allows you to create bouquets for your home and others. As long as you have good pruning shears, you can easily remove the blooms on the top of the stalk.
If you want to harvest the seeds for next year, remove the flowers from the stalks. You’ll then want to put the flowers in a dry spot with the seeds facing up and let it dry for several weeks. Once the seeds turn dark brown, use scissors or shears to remove them. You can then keep the seeds safe until the following season.
How to hire a gardener
Licensing and qualifications
You want to look for someone with strong qualifications. The C&G Advanced National Certificate in Horticulture and the Horticulture Certificate from the Royal Horticulture Society are just a few of the certificates that Australian gardeners may have. You can look up a gardener by his or her name or the license number that the person has to make sure that they have the qualifications that you need. Hiring a gardener can cost $50 to $100 based on what you need. They can handle everything from planting your sunflowers to harvesting them at the end of the season. Check on the licensing and qualifications that local gardeners have today to get help with your sunflowers.
More and more people are growing their own vegetables at home as an alternative to buying from the supermarket. There are many reasons for this, not least the fact that it can be quite a considerable saving from your weekly grocery bill. In addition to this, if you grow your own, you’ll know for sure that they haven’t been chemically treated and can harvest them at the peak of their freshness for that extra special taste. You don’t even need a large garden or plots of soil, as there is a large number of vegetables which can be grown in pots.
Choosing which vegetables to grow
Of course, the first consideration when growing your own vegetables is your personal taste, so you’ll want to pick some of your favourite greens. Another thing to consider is the requirements of each plant; most need different amounts of sunlight and water, plus their own pot, but some veg can be grown together, like tomatoes and cucumber.
Potting your vegetables
Any type of pot is usually adequate for growing vegetables, even old buckets or cans, but you’ll generally want to use a clay pot with holes in the bottom so surplus water can drain out. These pots can be sealed to prevent too much water escaping. The colour of the pot is important too; for vegetables that need a lot of heat, you should use a dark pot and for those that need less heat, a lighter coloured pot is preferable. The size of the pot you use will obviously depend on the size of the veg you are growing, with larger greens such as tomatoes and squash needing large pots. The final thing to consider before planting your seeds is the type of soil that the plant will need in order to grow. Usually, this will be indicated on the seed packet, but most pots should be filled with a sterile, pH adjusted soil with fertiliser and water retention granules.
Vegetables and herbs growing in pots / Source: Shutterstock
Growing your vegetables
Once you’ve selected and planted your vegetables, it’s time to let them grow. They obviously need sunlight and water, but care and attention are the most vital ingredients. Regularly watering your plants will keep them from becoming dehydrated and give them the best chance to flourish.
How to grow cucumbers
Cucumbers are classified as fruits as they take well to warm weather and come in a wide variety of types. Nonetheless, cucumbers can be a staple food item and are a great plant to grow in your first vegetable garden with numerous health benefits:
Plant in early spring
Plant cucumbers early in September as a seedling or newly planted seeds.
Pick a spot with lots of nutrients and organic matter
Cucumbers need lots of water while growing so plant seeds in moist, loose soil that’s well-drained.
Give them space
Distance your cucumbers half – a metre apart to give them space to grow.
How to grow potatoes
Potatoes are a versatile vegetable with a wide range of uses. While potatoes can grow from an existing potato, planting seeds from a local garden centre will give you a better yield of crops.
Timing is key
Plant potatoes between late Feb- September and you should see growth within a week to ten days. Potatoes will mature in four to five months. Potatoes should be planted at least 10cm deep and at least 50cm apart from each other.
Additions will help
Loosen up your garden’s soil with additives like manure that provides the needed phosphorus for potatoes.
Keep your crops covered
During the early growth phase, keep potatoes covered with soil and mulch because sunlight can render potatoes inedible. Keep potatoes moderately watered but overwatering can cause rotting.
Harvest when vines die
The ideal time to harvest your plants should be when the lower half of the plan begins wilting, approximately a month after the flowering has begun. Store your harvested potatoes away from the full sun and ensure they’re completely dried before storing them away.
Contact local gardeners
How to grow garlic
Garlic is easy to grow all year round and while it’s a tiny addition to your recipes, a small clove makes a big difference in flavour and seasoning.
Plant in full sun
Choose an area of your garden that receives full sun all day. Garlic doesn’t use seeds and a clove can be planted in a pot or a patch as it won’t harm plants nearby.
Garlic blooms in March
The middle of March when the days are shorter and nights are cooler, make it an ideal time to plant garlic. Plant a garlic clove two to three centimetres under the soil with the narrow end upward facing. Separate your cloves about a fist distance apart in rows that are about 35cms wide. Water garlic generously about twice a week.
Harvest garlic cloves when the leaves die
Simply grab the stalk of the plant and pull the bulb from the soil. Simply brush the dirt off rather than washing a garlic clove.
Pruning herbs and vegetables can encourage their growth / Source: Shutterstock
Growing herbs
Many herbs are seasonal and will only survive until the growing season is over. Basil is a fast-growing herb, and its growth is encouraged by pruning. Try putting this in a window during the summer months. Remove flowers from cooler-climate herbs like coriander and dill, and they’ll last much, much longer. The pruning helps to keep them compact and will help keep the herb yields higher.
A more inexperienced gardener might want to go for herbs like rosemary, sage and thyme. The less attention paid to them, the stronger they’ll be. One thing to watch out for when you start to plant – lookout for pests. They can quickly become a problem. In order to combat insects, be sure to use natural products or solutions to get rid of them once and for all.
A house is just a shell until you decorate it with furniture. As such, you want to keep these expensive purchases looking as good as new. But spills can happen every day. Before cleaning, soak up any excess from the spill and remember, blotting does not mean rubbing. After that, here are some tips to remove different types of stains.
Fabric and upholstery
Grease stains: Use just a little rubbing alcohol or dry-cleaning fluid. Keep blotting lightly until the stain stops coming up on the towel. Then use a mix of dishwashing liquid and water, starting from the outer rim of the stain and moving to the centre.
Makeup and ink stains: Using a little rubbing alcohol or dry cleaning fluid, immediately blot the stain until it is dry. If it hasn’t disappeared, use a mix of vinegar and warm water, and then blot it dry quickly.
Other stains:For miscellaneous stains, try soaking with water for about a minute before blotting the spot dry with a towel. Keep doing this until the stain doesn’t keep coming up on the towel, and then use a mix of dishwashing liquid and warm water until the stain disappears. Lastly, rinse with club soda or tonic water, and dry.
Wood furniture
Watermarks: Rub toothpaste in a circular motion on the water mark with a damp cloth. Then, use a clean, damp cloth to remove the toothpaste. Finish up by polishing the wood, or if you’re concerned, you can try using extra-fine steel wool to remove the mark, and then polish or wax it.
Heat marks: Use extra-fine steel wool to rub the stain out of the wood, and then polish or wax it.
Beverage stains: From soda to milk to alcohol, pour a little ammonia on the spill, and then use paste wax on your finger to rub the area. Then, wipe the wood clean and polish it.
Stains on wooden furniture can be removed with toothpaste and a damp cloth / Source: Ask S and R Services
Leather furniture
Greasestains: For a grease stain, wipe up as much as you can with a dry cloth, and let it sit for a few hours to see if it disappears on its own. If not, use leather cleaner.
Ink stains:Rub the stain with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol until it disappears, and then use a blow dryer to dry the spot. If the stain remains, use acetone-free nail polish remover, and remove the residue with leather cleaner.
Dark stains: For spills of dark liquid, rub a mix of lemon juice and tartar cream on the spot, and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then rub on some more of the mix, and finally remove it with a damp sponge.
Suede: For dry stains on suede, use a clean eraser. For wet stains, sop up the excess liquid with a paper towel. For oily stains, use a commercial suede cleaner.
Carpet
To reduce the damage, wet a rag with hot water and use it to dab the affected area immediately. Just remember, the sooner you treat the spillage, the better chance you have of its removal.
Wine stains: Wine can leave an obvious mark on your living room floor, but if you spill red wine on your carpet, don’t fret. Simply place a paper towel over the stain to absorb most of the moisture and sprinkle some baking soda over the stain. As the bicarbonate soda reacts with the chemical balance of the red wine, the colour will change from red to a light grey. Dab the area with a sponge dipped in white vinegar to change the pH of the wine again. Each time you change the pH of the stain, the stubborn spillage will be wrung loose from the affected carpet.
Coffee and tea stains: Try pouring a little beer on top of the affected area. Rub the beer into the spillage and watch the stain disappear. If you are out of beer, opt for a stronger solution by combining equal parts of white vinegar and water to blot out the stain.
Oil and grease stains: Pour baby powder over the area, cover it with a paper towel and gently iron it. The heat will force the powder to absorb the oil. Alternatively, negate the oil spill by rubbing detergent directly into the stain and washing it out with hot water.
Avoid using strong chemicals without a cleaning professional as it can damage the colour and condition of your carpet.
Contact local cleaning experts
Barbeque care
The barbeque is an essential ingredient to any outdoor party, but it can be a challenge to keep your barbecue clean, hygienic and ready for your next use. Apply these simple steps so you won’t get stuck scrubbing the grill in the final minutes before your guests arrive.
As good practice, ensure your barbeque is cleaned after each time it is used. Before cooking, take some time to line the drip tray with two layers of aluminium foil to avoid cleaning out the grease and oil after your sausages and steak are consumed.
After cooking on the barbeque, use some of the leftover onion – an affordable and safe cleaning tool, to scrub the hot plate and the grill. The onion can loosen the grime on your grill, but it is best to allow the flames to burn on high for an extra 5 minutes after cooking to burn any residue meat. The barbeque is best cleaned when it is still warm as the oils, fats and grime haven’t had time to set. A quick clean just after you’ve cooked the last lamb chop can save you effort and prevent scratches on the surface of your grill.
After each use, wipe down the oven hood of your barbeque with bicarb soda and vinegar while it is still warm. After cleaning, spray the hotplate and grill with some cooking oil to prevent rust.
This article is going to cover the three steps needed to make sure you remove insulation from your home in a safe and effective manner;
How to prep this attic cleanup
How to safely vacuum the area you are working in.
How to properly dispose of this product.
Attic insulation needs to be replaced immediately if there are signs of rodent infestations. They can spread disease and cause structural problems to your property. Removing the old insulation can be quite a pain to do alone, but if you follow these guidelines, the process will be a lot easier.
If you are doing it by yourself, you need to make sure you focus mainly on your own safety before anything else, whether you are removing loose attic insulation for replacement with new, removing due to water damage, or just changing insulation types! Everyone should know how to remove their own home’s insulation if need be, because if you don’t know how you might end up spending too much money for something that can be done for free by yourself.
If you plan on DIYing your insulation removal, ensure you have the correct protective gear / Source: Enviroflex Insulation
Insulation removal equipment
Fully covered clothing
Gloves
Goggles
Large garbage bags/trash bags
Tarp or blanket
Vacuum
Ladder
Respirator/dust masks
Proper safety attire for your attic cleaning
Before we begin, let’s go over the proper safety attire. When it comes to insulation, it is important to keep your body protected and keep insulation inhalation to an absolute minimum. You need to protect yourself by wearing the right equipment, dressed in a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and both your safety goggles and respirator. Attic insulation can be dangerous if you aren’t wearing the clothing for the job.
Step one: Know the type of insulation you have
The very first step in removing loose attic insulation is to determine what kind of insulation you are dealing with. It is important to figure this out because many older homes contain an insulation that has a grey, almost paper-like appearance and is very harmful to your health. If you cannot identify the insulation you are working with you need to find out if the insulation is comprised with asbestos by using a testing kit. If so, the best option for you to remove the insulation is to call for a local insulation expert to remove the insulation. View our Asbestos removal cost guide if you think you might have asbestos in your home.
When getting ready for insulation removal it is important that you don’t allow any damaged, mildewed, or mouldy insulation to fall and settle throughout your home. To prevent anything from going wrong, make sure that all the doors/attic opening are closed and place down your tarp in the area you are working in and tape it down to secure it.
To work in the attic safely, you should lay down some large wooden boards across the joist so that you are able to walk throughout the attic while removing the insulation. You will want the tarp to be placed in the area you will be unloading the insulation into the garbage bags. You need to have a clear path from where you are unloading the garbage bags full of insulation to the exit so that you aren’t spending too much time handling the bags, keeping minimum interaction.
Step two: Cleaning, vacuuming and disinfection
Before you start this next step, make sure that your clothing thoroughly covers all of your skin and you are wearing gloves and a respirator/mask. You will start by vacuuming all of the loose insulation throughout a small area and empty the canister into the garbage bags until the area is clear of loose insulation, then move on to the next area of the wall. With a wet-dry vacuum you are going to need to dump the insulation remnants from the vacuum canister into the trash bags every five minutes or so while vacuuming. After all of the attic walls are cleared, you then need to vacuum all of the attic joists thoroughly.
Contact local insulation experts
To start this, you’ll want to begin the process at the farthest end of the attic and make your way to the exit going backward. Getting stuck in a corner while you are stirring up insulation into the air is the last thing you want to do. Make sure you also check it twice along the floor joists to guarantee that all of the tiny insulation pieces aren’t infiltrating the air.
If you don’t own or have access to a shop-vac, then another option for you is to rent a HEPA filtered industrial vacuum. They are much higher powered than a standard shop-vac and will get the job done in much less time. It does this because it does two jobs at once; it sucks up the loose insulation and has attached a hose that routes the insulation from the vacuum straight to the trash container or garbage bags outside. This will keep the area you are working in a little bit neater and keep air infiltration to a minimum.
Step three: Insulation disposal
The third and final step in removing your attic insulation is the disposal of it. Disposing of the loose insulation you’ve collected in the garbage bags is important because of the damage that insulation can do to the environment if released. This is why you should contact your city’s waste management center to determine what the best option for dumping your insulation. It might even be as simple as leaving it out to the road with the other household trash bags, but there might be a specific dumb site that they refer you to go to for disposal.
Blown in insulation
Once you finish cleaning up the attic and remove the old insulation, it’s not a bad idea to add in more insulation if you don’t mind working up a sweat. To make sure you use enough insulation and seal up the attic bypasses, it’s still recommended to hire a local insulation professional for a long-term payoff. A proper insulation helps to save energy bills.
More and more these days we are looking for safe, yet effective, natural cleaning products. With so many chemicals and harsh pollutants in the things we consume on a daily basis, this shift towards natural products makes sense. Here are our top tips for which natural cleaning products are best for particular kinds of stains.
Baking soda
Baking Soda is a natural compound commonly found in the corner of your pantry and an effective natural cleaning ingredient. The fine powder can be used to scrub your bathroom and kitchen floors. When combined with vinegar, it also does wonders in clearing drains. Baking soda is a natural carpet cleaner. Sprinkle it onto your carpet for 15-20 minutes and then vacuum. Try adding a few drops of lavender or eucalyptus essential oil to baking soda to create a carpet deodoriser.
Lemons
Lemons are amazing natural cleaning products, fresh and aromatic and great at combatting household bacteria. Lemons are the perfect addition for any bathroom spray, BBQ degreaser or odour eliminator.You can also combine 1 cup oil with ½ cup lemon juice and apply it to furniture to dissolve dirt and grime. In the kitchen, deodorise your chopping boards by cleaning them with lemon juice or freshen up your dishwasher by positioning slices of lemon on the rack.
Salt
Common salt, or sodium chloride, is a fantastic natural cleaning product that can be used in the form of a scrub, paste or solution. A saltwater solution can help to brighten coloured curtains or faded rugs, while a mix of salt, lemon and water is great for rubbing rust off surfaces.
Vinegar is an acetic acid that comes in a variety of forms –apple cider, palm vinegar and white distilled vinegar will probably sound familiar. When combined with water, vinegar is an effective window cleaner and can also be used to prevent mould from building up in the bathroom and can help soften fabrics. Have something specific you’d like to get rid of using natural cleaning products? Here are our top natural stain removers for everyday stains.
Tea bags
Not just a drink for the soul, tea holds plenty of cleaning properties including for wooden surfaces. Revitalise the appearance of your wooden furniture by immersing a cloth in cooled tea. Remove excess tea-water from the cloth and allow it to sit on the surface momentarily before wiping the area to reveal a polished look.
Essential oils
Instead of opting for store-bought air freshener, use the natural fragrance essential oils to invigorate the scent of your abode. By creating your own mixture from scratch, you give your home a personality of its own that’s different from the familiar smell of commercial brands. Try mixing a few drops of tea tree, eucalyptus and lemon with half a cup of water in a spray bottle to freshen the air.
Natural grease stain remover
Natural Detergent: Rub the stain with detergent as a pre-wash and then chuck it into the washing machine.
Talcum powder: Sprinkle some powder on the stain and let it sit overnight. Simply brush off in the morning and wash as usual.
Hairspray: Spray some hairspray on the stain then wash as normal. Simple as that!
Sugar: To avoid getting grease on clothing after you’ve been fiddling with your bike or car, wash your hands with a mix of soap and sugar as this dissolves the grease.
Natural red wine stain remover
Salt (clothing): It is important to treat the stain ASAP as it becomes more difficult when it dries. Blot the area with a dry cloth soaking up as much wine as possible. Then sprinkle salt onto it and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. Rinse under cold water while rubbing the stain between your fingers. Repeat until it disappears.
Water, soap and vinegar (carpet): Firstly blot the area using a clean paper towel. Then using a clean towel dipped in a vinegar/water/detergent solution – 1 tablespoon detergent, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 2 cups of warm water, clean the area until the stain disappears.
Contact local cleaning experts
Natural grass stain remover
Toothpaste: Using a wet toothbrush rub a small amount of toothpaste (paste variety not gel) onto the stain until it disappears. Then wash the clothes normally.
Natural stain remover for clothes
Depending on the type of stain there are a number of ways to approach the problem.
Ink: Use rubbing alcohol to soak any items of white clothing for 30mins, then spray with hairspray and throw into the laundry as usual.
Tea & coffee: Saturate the stain immediately with boiling water until the stain disappears. If the stain has already set into the fabric, scrub with borax and water then wash immediately.
Tomato based stains: Tomato-based stains respond well to vinegar placed directly on the stain and then put into the laundry straight away.
The best way to remove stains from your carpet naturally is with a 2:1 mix of white vinegar to warm water. To this solution to a spray bottle then add 2 teaspoons of table salt and 15-20 drops of your favourite essential oils (to mask the vinegar smell) Apply the spray liberally to the stained area and let it dry before vacuuming it up.
Natural blood stain remover
The most effective natural blood stain removal product is vinegar. Pour it directly onto the blood and blot until the stain has been removed. If you need some extra help, or if the stain has started to dry use a 1:2 solution of baking soda and water and repeat the process of soaking and blotting.
Simply put, it’s a floor that is not attached in any way (e.g. by glue or nails) to the primary foundation. Floating timber floors have a “plug and go” quality in that they can be placed over the existing floor, concrete, tiles, plywood, particle floorboard, cork or tile in the home. Homeowners just have to ensure that the floor is even before placing the floating timber planks. Laying floating timber over existing flooring also provides an extra layer of noise insulation.
There are 2 types of floating timber floors, both of which have pros and cons:
Artificial timber floors: Artificial floating timber flooring is basically a laminate veneer overlay. Laminates are constructed to look exactly like real hardwood and require lower maintenance and are generally cheaper. You aren’t able to sand or repolish them, but mots are designed to be scratch resistant.
Solid timber floors: True floating timber flooring is a combination of hardwood pressed with a thicker fibreboard base. It comes finished, so adjusting for evenness is not a concern. If needed, it can be sanded down for a desired effect, but it is suggested not to do this too often due to the thinness of the natural wood on top. This option might be easier to clean and maintain – sanding and repolishing can help you remove minor damage and keep your floors looking new. However, the initial cost of the materials and installation is more expensive.
Regardless of the choice, both real and artificial floating timber flooring will arrive ready to install.
Benefits of floating floors
Easier to install. They can cover all types of flooring materials and easily create the look of timber.
It is available in a rich variety of colours suitable for all types of colour themes in offices as well as homes.
They are durable and often come with long warranties – usually 25 years or more.
There is no waiting period for using it after installation as there is no glue that needs to harden.
Source: JVK Building & Design
Can I install floating flooring myself?
One of the benefits of using floating flooring, is the huge cost savings compared to true professionally installed timber flooring. If you are a confident DIYer, you can always try out your construction skills and install them yourself! Timber flooring can add natural beauty to every room of your home, but is best used away from wet areas. You have your pick of wood types including cedar, oak and pine.
Most of the time, these floors are easy to install. Instructions are often provided. You may need to purchase glue, underlay materials and trims for this product. Within just a few hours of installing it, this type of flooring is ready to be used.
Floating timber floors also offer flexibility, meaning that they have natural “give” to the wood. Because of this, you’ll need to ensure ample space between the flooring and the floating timber flooring to withstand the expansion due to humidity variations.
Over time, this reduces sagging and unattractive gaps that can sometimes form in other wood flooring. These floors are actually designed to have small gaps that give the wood room to expand and contract.
How to maintain your floating timber floors
A properly installed or finished floor can look beautiful, but it is the maintenance of the floor which may help the floor to retain its beauty. If you want to avoid your floor appearing distressed or worn out prematurely, you must consider maintenance work. It will keep the floor in tip-top condition. You can also use floor mats and protective pads to improve the looks and add to the life of the floors. Here are some important maintenance tips you can follow.
1. Keep a check over dirt and dust
Floating timber floor may develop dents and scratches when exposed to dust and dirt. It is important to consider a protective finish for the floors. You should keep the floors clean every time. A daily cleaning and maintenance schedule should be followed – with regular mopping, sweeping and vacuuming. This will keep the dirt, dust and grit away from the floors which means it won’t develop scratches and marks.
Stick to your cleaning routine you establish. However, it is always advisable to clean the engineered floors with a soft cleaner and mop, as any high density and acidic cleaner will surely corrode the layer of the floor.
2. Protect your timber floors
A wooden floor is suitable for almost any lifestyle. Wood is a natural flooring option which is ideal for areas experiencing high traffic. It is durable and sturdy as well. A bit of maintenance will increase its life further. You may prefer placing rugs and protective pads on the surface of the floors to prevent scratches. If you are using it for hallway, living room or entryway, you must make sure to protect the floor. Proper rugs and carpets can save the floor from damage due to wear and tear and prolong the life of the floor.
3. What type of finish is it?
Before you even opt for any maintenance schedule, you must think about the finishing it has. Each kind of wood finishing requires different sort of care and maintenance. Choose only the best product for the floor and determine the schedule of maintenance. Your wooden floor will appear beautiful for the years to come.
4. Bolster the finishing
Hardwood floors are normally polished or coated with a special type of wax or varnish to restrict spills from seeping into the grains. But, it is unfortunate to learn that even the toughest of grains might not be able to withstand heavy traffic. You may cover the floors with the area rugs. This mainly applies to living room floors and the area adjacent to the exterior door.
Just like the other types of floors, even the hardwood floor has thermal expansion coefficient. This thermal expansion coefficient is affected by humidity. Boards of the floor can separate if there is too much humidity. To keep a check over the humidity level, you may use a dehumidifier.
By following the maintenance tips stated above, you can maintain your floating timber floor such that it lasts for ages. Besides frequent cleaning, you may also consider expert refinishing from time to time.
Outdoor decks are a great addition to any home; extending our living spaces and creating a comfortable area to entertain. Decks are an affordable solution and keeping them clean can easily enhance the visual appeal of your outdoor space. Get closer to a spotless deck with these DIY deck cleaning and sealing tips.
Outdoor decks are exposed to sunlight and harsh weather conditions which can wear out the colour of your timber decking. The original colour of the deck can be restored by applying a stain finish.
Stain finishes are usually applied when the timber loses its ability to repel water. We recommend reapplying a stain finish every two years, with two coats each time. Successive applications will also strengthen the water-resistant compounds in the timber surface and extend the colour for longer.
Test the water repellency of your deck by dropping water and checking if the water is absorbed. If the water drops soak up, it’s time to seal your deck with decking oil.
TIP: Always clean your deck before applying a stain finish. Each application requires at least 2-3 hours to dry. Check the weather update – avoiding a chance of rain – before you set aside an afternoon to oil your deck.
Clean before you oil
In between oil applications and before applying a stain finish, strip the deck of old oil residue by giving it a good scrub.
There are several types of deck cleaners, each with its own application procedure. Check the instructions carefully before you apply them to your deck. Some deck cleaners can be poured right on to the deck, while others require some diluting before usage.
Deck sealants are either oil-based or water-based, and both are equally effective. The difference is that an oil-based sealant will penetrate the surface of the wood while a water-based sealant will coat the wood’s surface. Water-based sealants can last from a year to 18 months while oil-based sealants last from six months to a year.
Alternatively, you can clean your deck with a homemade solution. A household solution is an inexpensive alternative to commercial deck cleaning formulas.
Mix ⅓ of household napisan with half a bucket of warm water.
Dampen the deck and follow by applying the cleaning solution with a deck scrub.
Let the solution sit for 15 minutes, give it a good rinse and let your deck dry for 24 hours. Achieve the same effect with a generic washing product that contains sodium perborate.
TIP: In between cleans and oil applications, maintain the colour of your timber with regular sweeps rather than hosing.
Don’t go overboard
When applying stain finish or decking oil, ensure you don’t overload the surface as this will produce a stronger colour than intended and can often result in an overly glossy and uneven decking floor. Consider these steps:
When your deck is dried, apply a coat of oil with an applicator and a decking brush.
Apply the oil across the entire length of the board for a smooth and even covering.
Coat 3-4 boards at a time and avoid overlapping as this can leave marks when the oil has dried.
TIP: To avoid overloading your deck with oil, wait 5-10 minutes after each application to see how much of the oil is absorbed. Remove excess oil with a rag.
Different options in deck sealers
Your deck should both look good, and be protected from the elements. Here are some options to consider when you are either sealing or resealing your deck.
1. Sealer
When using a sealer, you have two different options. You can either have one that is transparent, or you can have one that is semi-transparent. In either case, the sealer will serve to protect and preserve the wood that is hidden underneath. Sealers work to block out UV radiation from the sun in order to keep your deck from turning grey. They also work to keep mould and other types of fungus from growing on it.
A clear sealant will need to be reapplied each year, whereas a semi-transparent option will last for three to four years. These sealants provide protection and block UV rays as well because of the pigments that are in them. They will still show some of the natural colour of the wood and still keep it looking clean and inviting.
2. Stains that are semi-solid
Semi-solid stains can last up to five years and provide a good amount of protection. This is the most popular option for pine treated decking. When it comes to treating various hardwoods, this option can hide some of the actual colour of the wood. To reapply the sealant and stain, you will need to strip the old coating off and put a new fresh coating on. These are good for areas where there will be a lot of foot traffic and where there will be a lot of action on a regular basis.
3. Deck oils and stains
These are good options due to the fact that they are so durable and will last for a long time. They work to protect the wood from UV radiation, dirt and the growth of moulds and fungus. These will actually penetrate into the wood and form a seal. They are also known as deck oil.
These stains and sealants will wear away over time and need to be reapplied. They create a beautiful look, but keep in mind that your deck will be the colour of the stain or sealant you choose since they will not allow the true colour of the wood to come through in most cases.
4. Deck paint
While stains and oils are the most common option, you can also use a specially formulated paint on your deck. These tough paints will hold up to any foot traffic and weather that might plague a deck. It will also look great, and you’ll have plenty of colours and styles to choose from. You’ll be able to change the colour to match any sort of new decor you want to add to the outside! It’s both attractive and versatile.
How to DIY deck paint
First, choose what type of paint you’re going to use on your deck. Obviously, pick one out that is designed to be used on an outdoor deck – it should say that right on the can. Check the instructions or have a chat with the professional at the store before you buy it; there may need to be primer or undercoat used right alongside the paint. Be sure you select the right colour for your deck – it should complement the house, and not look too crazy. You need to be sure that your deck is clean and dry before you paint. That means if your deck is brand-new, let it sit for a week or so, and make sure it’s quite dried out. Also, check the weather forecast; don’t attempt to paint if it’s supposed to be rainy. Additionally, use drop cloths to protect any valuable plants from sprayed paint that might reach them.
After you’re sure that everything is dried, make sure that all of the old paint or coating is removed, apply any primer or undercoat, and then begin to apply the paint with the instrument of your choice – roller, paint broom or sprayer. As with any paint job, take your time and be careful. Make smooth, even strokes. Apply the first coat, let it dry, and then apply additional coats as necessary. Be sure to follow the instructions on the paint can. Let everything dry completely before replacing furniture.
Every two years or so, it will need to be re-painted so it keeps that same glowing appearance.
Staining timbers
Staining timber is an excellent way to add colour and protect your deck. While most stains are intended for specific timber types, with some experimentation, you can achieve a custom look with some experimentation. Here are some tips to help you achieve the desired look when staining timber.
Jarrah Stain on Pine:
Jarrah stain is typically used on durable hardwoods. However, if you like the look of Jarrah, you can experiment by using it on pine. Remember that the outcome may not be as impressive as with hardwood, but it’s worth a try.
Staining Treated Pine to Look Like Merbau:
Merbau is a popular choice for decks and is known for its enduring deep red-brown colors. If you’re wondering how to get a similar effect on treated pine, you can use a wood stain in a walnut or red-toned color, which can give your decking a sense of warmth and richness.
Stain-Treated Pine Sleepers:
Treated pine sleepers are known for their strength and durability, but their look may be too raw for some. Staining is an excellent way to add color and warmth to the timber and match your decking. For sleepers, it’s best to use a wood stain that can take much wear and tear. Use a wood sealer over the top of the stain to protect it from the elements.
With these tips, you can create beautiful timber finishes for your outdoor space. Remember to always conduct a test patch before staining the entire decking area. This helps make sure you get the results you want.
Cleaning, sanding, and coating a deck
To keep your deck looking great, regular maintenance is key. After cleaning, you may need to sand and coat or oil it to restore it to its original glory. Here are some tips to help you get the job done right.
Cleaning timber deck with Napisan:
For a quick and easy way to clean your timber deck, consider using Napisan. This laundry booster is a powerful cleaner and can cut through dirt, grease, and grime.
Sanding:
When it comes to sanding your deck, consider using a belt sander or an orbital sander. However, depending on your decking material, a belt sander can be the best option for large spaces, while an orbital sander can be more appropriate for smaller areas or problem areas.
Oils:
When selecting an oil to coat your deck, there are many great options available. Some recommended ones include:
Oz Oil Decking Oil: This is a quality oil, which provides a natural, long-lasting finish.
Haymes Decking Oil: This oil has a natural low-sheen finish that accentuates the timber’s natural beauty.
Wattyl Express Deck Oil: This oil has a water-based formula that dries quickly, making it perfect for use on decks.
Feast Watson Grey Look Deck: This oil is made for those looking to give their deck a modern, contemporary look.
Staining Treated Pine Decking:
When staining treated pine decking, use a high-quality deck stain that contains UV inhibitors to protect against fading, cracking, and warping.
Spotted Gum Deck Maintenance:
Spotted gum is a popular choice for decking material; it is naturally durable and will last for years if maintained. To keep your spotted gum deck looking great, clean it regularly with a mild detergent, then apply a quality exterior coating or oil to protect the timber from UV and water damage.
Cutek Oil:
Cutek CD50 oil is perfect for protecting and preserving your deck. This oil penetrates deep into the timber, providing protection against harsh weather and insect damage. Cutek oil is available at Bunnings if you’re looking for a convenient shopping location.
Best Finish for Treated Pine Decking:
Treated pine decking requires a finish that will be durable enough to withstand the weather elements while providing a polished look. An oil-based deck finish is an excellent option because it provides a durable finish that penetrates deep into the timber.
Orbital Sander for Deck:
When sanding your deck, an orbital sander is an excellent tool to use. It’s a hand-held tool that uses a circular motion to sand your deck thoroughly, giving you a clean surface ready for the next step in the sealing process.
Rain After Oiling Deck:
It’s best to avoid oiling your deck before rain or wet weather. If you must oil your deck during wet weather, ensure that it has enough time to dry thoroughly before it gets wet again.
By following these tips, your deck can look as good as new for years to come. Be sure to choose the best tools, oils, and cleaners suitable for your specific deck material and always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for better results.
The fencing around your house marks your property boundaries, provides privacy, and keeps pets or children in and intruders out. Fencing also plays a significant role in the overall look of your home; you want it to be durable, but beautiful as well.
When selecting the type of fence for your yard, factors to consider include:
Low maintenance – Will you need to re-paint and re-stain frequently?
Durability – Will this stand the test of time, and outdoor elements?
Aesthetics – Does this style fit with the design of your property and landscape?
Privacy – Will this style give you the level of privacy you require, while still offering enough light for your garden?
Vinyl or PVC fencing
PVC is low maintenance, looks great, and is made from a durable plastic. It’s available in smooth or artificial wood-grain textures that imitates painted wood! It’s a popular choice as it won’t rust, warp, degrade or discolor, making it a perfect fencing solution no matter the climate.
It’s quite low maintenance, a simple clean with soap and water is usually enough to remove grime and debris and it looks like new again. Another bonus? This type of fencing is environmentally friendly because it can be recycled. In addition, many vinyl fencing manufacturers offer a lifetime guarantee on their product – meaning it’s fairly indestructible.
Metal fencing
Colourbond is a popular choice when it comes to metal fencing because it’s extremely durable and comes in a wide range of styles. It’s also easy to maintain, with a special colour coating that is resistant to scratches and fading.
Wood fencing
If you want a natural, wooden look, there are several options. Basicwooden fencing can come as pickets or panels in a variety of timbers. It is a popular and versatile type of fencing and can look natural or be painted to suit your garden.
Brush and reed fencing is bound tightly and offers great protection from prying eyes. It is woven onto a frame which can be placed wherever you choose, including over another fence, whilst maintaining a great, natural look.
Wood composite fencing is made of a manufactured material that combines recycled timber scraps with plastic, making it an environmentally friendly choice. In some cases, between 50 and 100 percent of the material that makes up these materials is from recycled matter. Once you are done using it and are ready for something new, you can also recycle it.
This type of fencing looks like real timber, but because of the addition of plastic, is more durable and low maintenance. This means the fence will not rot, corrode, fade, or warp over time. The colour goes throughout the entire material so that scratches don’t show. Standard timber fences often need applications of products and chemicals to keep them looking good, however composite fences only require a clean with warm, soapy water.
Concrete fencing
Concrete fencing is an extremely durable choice, available in a variety of finishes – from smooth panels or blocks to timber-grain, rendered, or stone finishes. Just like wood composite fencing, the colour goes through the entire material, so scratches and other damage don’t show. The only disadvantage to concrete fencing is that because it’s a heavy material, it must be installed correctly to ensure the fence doesn’t fall down. Generally, it should be installed by a professional contractor.
You can purchase “pre-cast concrete fences” – which means the fence is poured into forms by a manufacturer, then allowed it to dry, set and cure before being shipped. This option means you avoid the hassle of pouring concrete on-site, and can purchase based on your specific measurements. It can also be purchased in a variety of finishes, and. is relatively affordable compared with stone or brick.
Glass fencing
Glass is becoming more popular with homeowners due to its strength, safety and low maintenance. It affords you an unobstructed view and an open airy feeling while still giving you the protection of a fence.
While a glass fence can be used anywhere around a home, it is particularly useful around a pool or balcony. It comes in a variety of frames, but a fully frameless fence gives you the most open feeling.
Brick fencing
You can’t go wrong in choosing brick for your fence. It lasts forever, is solid and adds a level of noise reduction. The downside is it can make your home feel like a fortress, which you may not like. To eliminate this restrictive feel, you can always combine brick with other materials, such as aluminum or timber. The brick gives you strength, but the other material adds a touch of creativity and beauty to your home’s yard.
Whether natural stone, or a resemblance, this type of fencing brings a rustic and timeless look to your garden. Stone fencing can cost more than other types, but is a one-time expense and will never need to be replaced. Natural stone looks great unadorned or with the addition of plants or even paint.
Green fencing
Hedging is an old but timeless form of fencing. It is created by simply growing a row of hedges or bushes tightly together and keeping them well-maintained so they protect your privacy. Trees are another good form of living fence for blocking views. They’re also a more environmentally friendly option. Trees and hedges come in many sizes, shapes, and varieties, so your living wall can be tailored exactly how you like.
A living wall can be an environmentally friendly fence option / Source: S.F.D Caringbah
Where to use fencing in your garden?
When it comes to garden fencing, don’t feel restricted in working with popular forms. Be creative and bold with your look; garden fencing can be as versatile as your imagination allows. If you’re going for a decorative look or if you prefer your garden to have a structured and functional feel, a fence can do one or the other (or even both). Consider these ideas for your new fence:
Define various elements in your garden
Border your pool, deck or entertainment area
Create privacy, like a secluded hideaway
Hide unattractive areas, such as an old shed or stony, arid parts of your land
Increase security
Protect your garden and vegetable beds from wild animals
Clad existing fencing material
Complement the style of your home
Feature a special area of your landscape
For a unique, exotic effect, consider combining the look of different fencing materials. Concrete and timber work well together, and aluminium and steel do too. The possibilities are exciting and endless.
Different types of fences will require different levels of DIY ability, as well as time and labour investment. To save time and hassle, you can always chat to professional. If you’d prefer attempting to install your fence yourself, here’s a guide to get you going.
Building your fence
The general rule of thumb is to space the posts six to eight feet apart, depending on the purpose of the fence, what style of fence you’ll build and what terrain you’re building it on. The end posts should be placed first to make sure the posts line up to each other correctly. Use a stake as a marker for each post hole before digging it – you can use a tool called a post hole digger for this.
After the holes are dug, insert the post and make sure at least a third goes in the ground so that it remains stable. When this is done, brace the fence with concrete by filling it in the hole. The concrete and posts will settle a few days later – after this, you can add the fence.
It’s a good idea to add the top and bottom rails to the posts for wooden fences. You can do this by using a variety of joints, including a lap joint, a mortised joint, a slotted joint or a grooved joint. Basically, use what you’re comfortable with. These joints are there to make sure that the rail is even with the fence post. Using something such a ruler or a stick to mark precise measurements between the rails will almost guarantee that they will have the correct distance apart for the entirety of the fence.
After the posts, the next step is to attach the pickets. Do this by taking time when fixing the first few of them. By using an item such as a block to give the correct spacing, you can finish the rest. This quickens the process of adding the pickets and ensures that they are even and look great.
When this is finished, paint the fence a colour that suits your home’s design.
DIY Kits
Building a fence from scratch isn’t for everyone. There are plenty of companies that provide do it yourself kits for fencing that include everything you’ll need. DIY kits come with instructions and can be popped up easily and securely for a fence that lasts for years to come.
With many professional trades services such as plumbing, there are restrictions in place to determine what you can and cannot do yourself. What you can and can’t do is more than a recommendation; it’s bound by the law and Australian Regulations. In fact, most household plumbing work, including sink, toilet, gas, and charged stormwater system repairs need to be handled by a licensed tradesperson.
It is useful to be more informed to benefit the safety of your plumbing and gas system. It is also likely to save you dollars – the cost of getting something repaired after you’ve tried to DIY will outweigh the cost of calling a plumber in the first place.
Here, we’ll take you through the DIY plumbing options you could attempt, as well as the DIY-don’ts.
When it comes to water plumbing, you can do the following tasks on your own:
Replacing a jumper valve or washer in a tap
Changing showerheads
Installing or maintaining irrigation systems downstream from an isolating valve, tap or backflow prevention device on the supply pipe for the irrigation system
For sanitary plumbing, you are allowed to:
Clean or maintain ground level grates to traps on sanitary drains
Replace caps to ground level inspection openings on sanitary drains
Maintain an above or below ground irrigation system for the disposal of effluent from an on-site sewerage facility
Now that you know what DIY Plumbing is allowed, here is what you can’t attempt yourself.
DIY Plumbing Tips: What you can’t do yourself
Any work that interacts directly with the installation of your drinking water system or sewerage requires a licensed plumber. This is Australian Law. If your problem or project involves gas, hot water or sewer systems, you are also not allowed to intervene yourself, it is time to call a professional plumber.
DIY Plumbing in Australia
To avoid aggravating the situation in the event of leakage or water damage, it is often necessary to call a plumber instead of attempting a DIY method. This professional intervenes on all the problems in connection with the circuit of distribution of water, but also of gas and compressed air.
If you are installing a stormwater tank, professional plumbers can advise you on the minimum depth of stormwater pipes. Many individuals are reluctant to hire a professional plumber because of the cost of the services, however, a simple mistake during a DIY project may cost a lot more than the plumber service itself.
Your plumber can also intervene in the event of a heating failure, to find the cause of the breakdown, to repair your installation and to make the necessary modifications to assure him optimal performances.
Even if you feel confident in your trades skills, attempting to DIY any of these jobs can be dangerous. Costs will include paying the plumber to fix the problems you created in the first place, and potentially a hefty fine. The relevant regulations for plumbing for NSW fall under the Plumbing and Drainage Act NSW 2011. Section 4 states that the only work you should be undertaking yourself is repairing taps or showerheads; everything else should be left to the professionals. Section 6 notes that the only people that can complete plumbing and drainage work are the ones authorised under the Home Building Act 1989.
Do you have a toilet that constantly requires repairs or a cistern that’s gone leaky or won’t flush? Then, it may be time to replace your toilet and cistern. In this article, we’ll walk you through how to install a toilet and cistern. That way, when you get a plumber to do the necessary bathroom renovations, you know what to expect from them!
Types of toilets
Since you’re in the market for a new or replacement toilet, it’s good to know the different kinds available. When you’re installing a toilet, it can be any of the following:
Two-piece toilets – The most common type of toilet, this type has a separate cistern and bowl.
One-piece toilets – This sleeker design combines the tank and the bowl. Other than its design, it’s quite similar to the standard two-piece toilet.
Wall-mounted toilets – If you’re looking to save floor space, this model has the tank hidden in the wall. What’s great about this model is that it makes your bathroom look sleek and easier to clean. The downs
Although not known, the height of a suspended toilet bowl is adjustable during the cistern installation process by means of simple hooks. This height, usually 40 cm above the ground, can be lowered to 30 cm for toilets used by children.
Most manufacturers offer complete, ready-to-install packages, including bowl and tank, recessing liners, easy-to-assemble plumbing fittings, and accessories. It is first necessary to compare the general characteristics of the equipment: dimensions of the bowl, the design of the trigger plate, the size of the tank, the noise level of the filling and the like.
Cost of installing a new toilet
There is no set price for toilet installation, as it varies depending on the type of toilet, its installation method, etc. If you want a proper installation, especially when you’re setting your budget for your bathroom renovation, you should hire a professional plumber.
Tools you’ll need for installing a cistern and toilet
How to install a toilet and cistern includes learning what tools and materials you’ll need. Here’s what to get at the hardware store:
Adjustable wrench
Screwdriver
Pipe wrench
Utility knife
Level
Tape measure
Wax ring
New toilet (bowl, cistern, seat)
Bolts and stainless steel washers
Stainless steel screws
PVC primer
PVC cement
Plumber’s putty
Plumber’s tape
White silicone sealant
Gloves and mask
Old rags
How to install the toilet cistern
Source: Shutterstock
Are you ready to install your new toilet? Below are the things to expect when a licensed plumber installs a toilet cistern:
Step 1: Empty the cistern
First, your plumber will flush the toilet and turn off the stop tap. Then, they’ll switch off the main water supply. They do this to avoid dealing with a messy, flooded bathroom floor.
Step 2: Remove the cistern
The plumber will get a wrench and loosen the inlet pipe at the bottom of the toilet tank. Then, they’ll separate the cistern from the back of the toilet.
Step 3: Disconnect the cistern from your water supply line
Using a screwdriver, the plumbing professional will disconnect the cistern from the water supply line, and the bowl from the cistern. Expect some residual water to come out of the hose when they do this.
Step 4: Connect your new cistern
Next, the plumber will connect the cistern to your toilet bowl. They’ll make sure the gaskets and washers are lined up correctly, and the bolts are nice and tight.
Step 5: Reattach the hose to your cistern
Your plumber will apply some plumber’s tape to the inlet. Next, they’ll reattach the water supply hose to your replacement cistern. After this, it’s just a matter of redoing the nuts and bolts. Fitting a toilet cistern is just uninstalling it, in reverse!
Step 6: Check for leaks
The plumbing expert will do a couple of practice flushes without the water on. Once they’re satisfied, they’ll turn on the water supply. Once the new toilet tank is full, it’s time to try flushing. Ideally, you should have a good, functional cistern with no leaks or flushing problems.
Toilet bowl installation is another task best left to the pros. Here’s how they typically fit or replace a toilet to fix your loo:
Step 1: Prepare the installation area
First, the plumber will inspect the area around the bowl. For new toilet installation, they’ll simply want to keep the area debris-free. But for toilet replacement, the plumbing professional will need to remove old wax and grime around the floor and toilet flange.
Step 2: Remove the old toilet
Next, the plumbing professional will flush the toilet, turn off the stop tap, and switch off the main supply line. They will unthread the main coupling nut to the water supply, the tank bolts, and any nuts or bolts attaching the bowl to the floor.
Step 3: Remove the wax rings
The plumber will use a putty knife to scrape off the wax rings from the old toilet. Then, they’ll get some rags to plug up the drain hole–prepare the rags ahead of time and place them where accessible to use when things get messy. Installing a replacement toilet can get smelly!
Step 4: Inspect the closet flange
Now, the plumber will check that the closet flange is still attached securely. If they’re installing a new closet flange or replacing an old one, here’s how they’ll do it:
First, your plumber will get some PVC primer and cement. They’ll apply PVC primer on the inside of the closet, and then on the outside of one end of your soil pipe. Next, they’ll apply PVC cement on top of the primer and twist the soil pipe into the closet bend.
Next, the plumber will take the other end of the soil pipe and the inside of the closet flange. They’ll put PVC primer and cement on those, too. They’ll twist and press the ends together. Eventually, the soil pipe’s collar should be attached to the floor. The plumber will rotate the soil pipe collar until the slots are on the right and left sides of the hole. The goal is to get the bolts parallel with the back wall (behind your cistern).
Finally, the soil pipe collar is secured to the floor using stainless steel screws. These screws should be long enough to reach the subfloor for a secure fit.
Step 5: Apply the new wax ring
Now, the plumber will place the new wax ring over the closet flange, making sure it’s centred. They’ll get long brass closet bolts and thread them end up into the flange collar’s slots. Then, they’ll place a washer over each bolt.
Next, the plumber will press the wax ring over the flange, flat side down.
Step 6: Install the toilet bowl
Now, your plumber can place the toilet bowl over the flange. While lifting the bowl, they’ll align the holes in the base with the closet bolts. Once they’re lined up, they’ll lower the toilet over the wax ring and hold the toilet down to press it into place.
Your plumber will put a washer and a nut on each base bolt and tighten them. Note that they really won’t overtighten these bolts since this can cause cracking.
Step 7: Make sure the toilet bowl is level
Your plumber will use a level to ensure the toilet is set evenly on your bathroom floor. They may add shims under the base to troubleshoot any slants.
Step 8: Prepare the flush and cistern
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, the plumber will prepare your toilet’s flush button or handle. Then, they will fit sealing rings as needed. Afterwards, they’ll assemble the cistern and fit the pump and other interior workings into place.
Step 9: Position the cistern
For this step, the plumber will put the cistern on top of the bowl. They’ll align the mounting holes, then use bolts, nuts, and washers to secure the cistern over your toilet. Again, they won’t overtighten when connecting the cistern to the toilet to avoid cracking.
Step 10: Position the valves and tighten the bolts
The plumber will adjust the toilet fill valve position as needed to get the right fit. Then, they’ll put washers on the bolts and fix them in place.
Step 11: Reconnect the water supply
Your plumber will get a pipe wrench and reconnect the water supply line to the valve at the bottom of your cistern. They’ll turn on the water line and wait for the tank to fill. While this is happening, they’ll check for leaks around your bowl.
Step 12: Install the toilet seat
The plumber then takes the toilet seat and aligns it with the bowl’s mounting holes. Once they’re aligned, the plumber will screw the seat into place.
Step 13: Apply sealant to the toilet base
For this step, your plumber will get some white silicone sealant and apply it all along the base of your new toilet. This will prevent leaking and seeping.
Step 14: Final inspection
The last step to toilet set up is to do some quality checks. Your plumber will do some practice flushes and make sure the toilet and cistern are working properly. They’ll look for leaks in and around the parts. They may even sit on the toilet and make sure it’s level and bolted down securely. Once they’re happy and you’re satisfied, your new toilet and cistern are ready to use!
Safety precautions when installing a cistern and toilet
Leave the toilet installation job to the pros | Source: iStock
Stay safe when supervising your toilet and cistern installation. Here are some guidelines to keep in mind:
Turn off the water supply before your plumber starts. This helps prevent accidents due to a wet, flooded floor.
Wear gloves and a mask – especially when working with drain holes! Avoid touching or inhaling any toxic waste.
Make sure there is enough ventilation when working with adhesives like sealant. Crack open a window and keep your mask on.
Lift heavy objects carefully. Ceramic toilets and cisterns and a damp floor require extra caution.
When to hire a professional plumber
Toilet installation can get messy and complicated. So, it might be best to get a plumber to replace your toilet.
In fact, Australian law requires that only licensed plumbing professionals work with sewage systems, including your toilet and cistern. Also, your area may have certain building codes and regulations for toilets and cisterns that a pro will already know about.
Another great thing about hiring a plumber is that they already know how to install a toilet, cistern, and other bathroom renovation and repairs you might need.
Prepare for a new toilet installation
Installing or replacing a toilet and cistern can be taxing—you’ll work beside a smelly drain, lift heavy things, and tighten washers just right. But now that you’re “flush” with knowledge of the tools, steps, and tips for toilet and cistern installation, you know what to expect from a professional plumber.
A properly installed toilet is a must for every home, and getting a professional plumber is now easier–you can find reputable contractors or service providers and check their credibility online.Just remember to also understand the toilet installation costs before finding a plumber to help you out in a tap!
FAQs on how to install a toilet and cistern
Can I install a cistern myself?
Australia requires that only licensed professionals execute work involving sewage systems, including installing a toilet or cistern. Unless it’s a minor repair like fixing a float valve or unblocking a drain, you should leave it to your plumber to replace your toilet.
Do you need a plumber to install a toilet cistern?
Yes, you’ll need a licensed plumber when fitting a toilet cistern or even having a new toilet installed. This is to comply with Australia’s plumbing code. Plus, it helps keep you safe from any complications from your sewage system.
Yes, you can ask a pro plumber about getting a replacement bowl before you buy one for your toilet bowl installation. Generally, you’ll need to consider three things:
Tank height – This is the cistern’s height; ensure that the new toilet setup will fit under your shelves.
Toilet depth – This is the span from the front of the seat to the back of the tank; you may want a similar, deeper, or shallower bowl versus what you have now.
Rough-in measurement – This is the distance between the back wall and the centre of the waste pipe; your new toilet should fit the rough-in.
