Categories
Construction

Dilapidation report & survey

What is a dilapidation report?

A dilapidation report is a summary of damage done to nearby buildings while demolition is being performed. Before and after dilapidation reports are standard in comparing existing or new damage.

What does a dilapidation report include?

Dilapidation reports commonly contain the following information:

Notes

Notes on the structural condition, noticeable water condition and external damage from wear and tear are essential in highlighting the beginning condition of a structure.

Measurements

The measurements of a nearby building can offer a summary of any movement that occurs once the demolition has begun.

Photographs

Pictures of crumbling concrete, water pipes in need of repair and other damages can prove that there were existing problems before the demolition occurred.

Diagrams

Making diagrams of specific areas can be used as a comparison to before and after areas of foundations, previous building inspection details and places where pictures are not possible.

Benefits of dilapidation reports

The benefit of dilapidation reports includes preventing damages to surrounding buildings. However, more importantly, other parties accusing you of damaging their property from your equipment. The reports are offered before and after a job. The facts are clear if damages have happened due to unintentional moves by your company.

A two storey brown brick home with an orange arrow pointing to a damaged area
A damaged area on a home / Source: Leading Building & Pest Inspections Glenelg

Do I need a report of dilapidation?

Any time a contractor is bringing in large equipment or moving soil, the potential for damage is a threat. Just the vibration of motors running can cause harm to unsecured items. It is recommended that before you, or your neighbours, begin a construction project, a report of dilapidation should be ordered.

Another form of inspection is called a building works inspection report. This report is used when a project changes hands in the middle of the work. Making notes and taking photographs at the changeover and the end will provide an accurate picture of where a new contractor’s work began.

Residential vs commercial dilapidation reports

Dilapidation reports for residential or commercial properties can vary in structures and ground type. Laws are often not the same for the two different sites. Residential sites may have more personal items to deal with. In contrast, commercial areas are more concerned with structural and drainage issues. However, both are important in the claims that could be made when a job is completed.

What is the difference between dilapidation reports and dilapidation surveys?

A dilapidation survey report deals with the current condition and areas that may be prone to damage. While the damage is not visible at the time, a weakened foundation could become damaged by heavy equipment.

Only a professional commercial dilapidations assessment can provide the tell-tale signs of potential problems. Restoration of damage is also much more manageable when a dilapidation survey is available. Dilapidation reports rely mainly on the physical evidence of the before and after scenes.

Contact local dilapidation report experts

How to hire a dilapidations report expert

A dilapidations report expert will be a professional within the building trade. They must not be associated with the owners or construction company. By using a third party, a neutral, unbiased report is presented.

A dilapidation inspection is much like a home inspection where training and experience are necessary. Only a qualified commercial or residential contractor will understand the essentials of how structures and large equipment can be impacted. Your local building authority can provide you with a list of qualified individuals to perform a before and after inspection.

Once you have a list of qualified dilapidation inspection individuals, use further research to determine which one is best for your particular situation. Ask questions such as:

  • Are you licensed?
  • How long have you practised in the area?
  • Has your work ever been questioned?
  • Can you provide a list of references?

Also, get estimates on the dilapidation reports. Depending on the area and the amount of work involved, the prices will be different. For example, in Sydney, a residential dwelling by one company is $700, and a commercial property begins at $850. Be sure to compare apples to apples when getting more than one quote to get an accurate comparison of the competitors.

Dilapidation reports are not cheap. However, they are worth the time and money when considering significant repairs that could be necessary.

Categories
Gardening & landscaping

Tree removal guide

Trees, as with every living thing, require care and maintenance. However, there can be a lot of confusion around what trees need, especially in terms of their care. This is when an arborist steps in.

When to remove trees?

There are some circumstances that make it necessary to remove trees. Some situations in which it is the best course of action to remove a tree from your garden or yard include:

  • If the tree is dead, dying, or infested with wood-boring insects
  • If it has been planted in the wrong location or you need to remove it to construct a building
  • If the tree or its roots pose a threat to your property or a neighbour’s

Who should I hire to remove trees?

Removing a tree yourself can be dangerous for you and the surrounding properties. Since this is certainly not a project you would want to tackle on your own, consulting a professional is vital. Two professions –tree loppers and arborists– handle this type of removal. While the two professions share some skills, arborists have more detailed tree knowledge. Keep this in mind when considering whom to contact.

Hire an arborist or a tree lopper for professional tree removal / Source: Ace’s Tree & Garden Service

When consulting with professionals, make sure they have the necessary insurance–personal insurance and public liability at least. Get a quote from anyone you are considering as well as a clear idea of what the quote covers. Choosing someone with experience and references will save you trouble in the long run.

An arborist’s skill lies in not only the physical acts of tree climbing, pruning and branch removal but also understanding what each tree needs. Before you hire an arborist, take these four points into consideration.

1. Not all trees need pruning regularly

Pruning is necessary to ensure the healthy growth of a tree. Fruit trees, in particular, require constant pruning to deliver a high quality and quantity crop. Trees that produce large flowers, such as Magnolias and Flowering Crabapples, should also be cut back regularly to ensure that they bloom regularly. Understanding the type of tree that you have and whether or not they require an arborist is the first place to start in the hiring process.

2. If it has dead branches, get it pruned

Dead branches are a hazard to your home and its inhabitants, especially if you live in an urban area. To identify dead wood, look for branches that are completely leafless while the others around them have green leaves. Also, if your tree is deciduous, and every other branch is bare in autumn, but one branch is still clinging to its dead leaves, then it’s time to get it pruned. Dead branches can also be a sign of disease within a tree. If you’re concerned your tree has any signs of dead branches, especially ones that are large or overhanging, hire an arborist asap.

Contact local tree loppers

3. If it has fungal growth, you might have a bigger problem

Large shelf fungus, wood conchs or another mushroom like growth on a branch or the trunk of the tree can be a major problem. The fungus grows in areas of decomposition. Meaning that if you have any signs of it on your tree, the tree itself may be rotting and therefore unstable, if you see this happening it may be too late to save the tree. Call an arborist to get a professional assessment and removal before it falls!

4. Look for seasonal pricing

Summer and spring are high growth months for plant life. This means that landscapers are in high demand. Now that we’re moving into autumn, it might be a good time to look at getting some tree removal done. If you have any serious issues, either dead wood or fungus, hire an arborist sooner rather than later. If however, your garden simply needs a prune, ask about winter pricing.

Arboreal care is often confused with ‘tree-lopping.’ It is, however, a much more involved process that helps ensure your trees receive the best care they can have. Helping you maintain healthy plants or saving you and your home from disaster.

Tree removal should be left to the professionals / Source: Hills Tree Solutions

Where does the removed tree go?

You may wonder what happens to the tree once it is out of the ground. The tree lopper or arbourist you hire will cut it down into small pieces and should be able to remove everything–even the tree stump–for you. You may choose to keep the wood for winter firewood. Or you can see whether the hired professional can turn the wood into mulch for you. You may find that mulching the tree can reduce the tree-removal cost since they won’t have to pay to dispose of the tree for you.

Even if you own your property, you will probably have to get a permit to remove a tree. Check with your local council, as it can inform you on the current rules and regulations. If your tree is classified as protected, you may find that you have to gather additional permissions before it can be removed.

Categories
Cleaning

How often should you change your sheets?

While it’s true how often you change your bedsheets comes down to your own personal preference, experts suggest changing your sheets every week is the best way to keep your bed as hygienic as possible.

According to a recent poll, Australians change their sheets once every four weeks, increasing the risk of bacterial infections, allergies and skin irritations.

Source: Helicrete

Benefits of changing your sheets regularly

When it comes to our bed sheets, our sleeping spaces harbour dead skin cells, dust mites, sweat and often bacteria, so regular cleans are essential for good health and great sleep. Not to mention, the reinvigorating feeling of falling asleep between fresh and crisp bed sheets should be enough incentive to replace our sheets.

Pillows especially pick up loads of oil and dirt from your face and hair and should be changed and washed frequently. This will help avoid pimples, rashes and other unsightly skin issues on your face and neck. A weekly clean of pillowcases and a fortnightly replacement of bed sheets is recommended to ensure your sleeping area remains clean.  Air out your pillowcases, pillows and quilts regularly in the sun where possible to keep bedding sheets fresh and crisp for bedtime.

Doona’s and sheets should be washed on a hot cycle fortnightly at most. The hot wash will kill any bacteria or mites that are present.

The best way to wash bed sheets

Washing your bed sheets is relatively simple by putting them through 60degree+ hot wash with detergent to kill bacteria. Ball up your bed sheets to prevent them from losing shape.

When washing your sheets, bleaching agents can weaken the fibres of your sheets so opt for a natural remedy by adding 1/4 cup of lemon juice to the wash cycle to whiten your sheets.

Source: Mattrix Constructions

How often should I clean my curtains and drapes?

Clean your curtains or drapes every month by simply running the vacuum over them. Any tough spots or stains can be treated independently based on the material.  Curtains and drapes can be very heavy and delicate so avoid putting them in the washing machine if at all possible. For delicate fabrics that need a thorough clean, consider taking them to a dry cleaner to ensure they are not damaged in the cleaning process.

Why do I need to clean the curtains, drapes and bed sheets?

Curtains act as dividers between outside and inside environments, absorbing and blocking the moisture and dirt that can get in through open windows and air vents. Dirt and debris from the air can also accumulate on curtains while we vacuum and dust other areas of our home. Cleaning our curtains can refresh the smell and airspace of our homes as well as increasing the lifespan of your drapes. Dust is also a health hazard and regularly cleaning your curtains can prevent the build-up of dust and protect your family’s health.

Contact local cleaners

How should I clean my curtain drapes?

How you choose to clean your curtain drapes can depend on the material. With nylon, polyester or cotton curtains, a warm and gentle wash cycle is sufficient.

Wash lightweight curtains on a delicate cycle, while heavy drapery will retain water, making it difficult to dry and air out. Bear in mind that lighter drapes made of delicate fabrics can shrink so ensure the label of your curtain is checked before washing.

Most of the dust on your curtains settles between the hems and the folds of the curtain and vacuuming from the top down can help prevent dust build up and maintain your curtains between washes. Ensure that you always vacuum on both sides of the curtain to remove dirt and dust.

Clean your curtains regularly to refresh the space and increase lifespan / Source: In Design International

Don’t wait for stains to build up on your curtains and drapes but add a little dishwashing liquid to your damp sponge and dab away at your stains.

Preventative sprays that can repel dust. A reliable home solution:

  • 1 cup of water
  • 1/4 cup vinegar
  • 1/4 cup of crushed lemon or lime juice for a citrus scent

Add in a spray bottle and apply to drapes for a fresh barrier against dust and dirt.

Categories
Kitchen

Oven buying guide

When buying an oven, you need to consider a few things. Should you go with an electric or gas oven? Should you pick one that looks great and stays in one place? There are lots of features to consider and designs to choose from, so hopefully this guide will help you work out what type of oven is best for you.

Electric vs gas ovens

Historically, people have gone for gas ovens because of their heat control. However, electric ovens can heat up and cool down quickly now as well, meaning that there is little difference between the two. Often, people choose electric ovens due to their versatility and multifunctional uses.

Gas ovens, however, are more energy efficient and better for the environment, which is becoming increasingly important to many people. They also help remove moisture from food better, making them more popular amongst chefs.

Source: Nick de Lorenzo Photography

Oven features to look out for

Beyond the appearance of an oven, there are a number of features that you need to consider. Safety features include:

  • Having a door that holds itself open, rather than one that can only be open or closed all the way
  • Safety stops to prevent shelves sliding out
  • Shelves that don’t drop down and sag when taken out this can make cooking heavier dishes more difficult
  • Grill trays shouldn’t sag either, but must extend out enough so that foods at the back can be turned and worked on
  • The grill’s heating element should be safe, eliminating the possibility of having your hands touch the heat source by accident.

Other features include:

  • Having a number of racks
  • Having many rack positioning options at least three
  • Having a smokeless grill tray
  • Having a grill tray with at least two positions

Additional features to look for

After these main features have been considered, other optional features can be looked at, such as:

  • Fan assisted ovens with at least one fan. These are more expensive, but distribute heat better.
  • Quick preheating
  • Defrost functions are also handy for cooking frozen foods.
  • Self-cleaning ovens Catalytic liners will absorb fat, whilst pyrolitic cleaners burn off fat and convert then to ash by heating the oven to extreme heats.
  • Electronic controls make the cooking process more simple, but are an unnecessary and costly extra. Automatic timers, however, are handy options for both cooking and safety.

Types of ovens: Built-in or freestanding?

Freestanding ovens

As you might have guessed from the name, a freestanding oven is installed straight onto the floor. Generally, freestanding ovens combine the oven part with the cooktop to create one all-encompassing unit. They’re very easy to install since they can fit into most spaces. All you’ll need to do is hire an electrician to set the wiring.

As far as style goes, freestanding ovens fit better with traditional designs, but will certainly look fine in just about any kitchen. You can also easily move them out of the way for repairs if something breaks. The only downside to freestanding ovens is that they make the area around them quite hard to clean – the gaps between the benchtop and the oven can be narrow, and will attract plenty of dirt and grime. Also, freestanding ovens might be hard on your back – since you’ll be constantly bending over to check on food and move it out of the way. Take that into consideration before you install one. 

Freestanding ovens come in a variety of options and can be easier to repair / Source: Unitek Constructions

Built-in ovens

Built-in ovens are installed right into your kitchen cabinetry; this design allows for much greater flexibility. You don’t necessarily need to have the oven and the range in one unit. Instead, you can move them to wherever is better in your kitchen. Since the layout is so flexible, you can install the unit higher up – meaning you’ll save a lot of time and pain from constantly bending over. You can have the units installed higher up in the kitchen. They’re designed to flow and fit into whatever different layout you have. 

There are some drawbacks to built-in ovens, though. Since the two different parts of the oven are separate, the oven might take up more space. Also, since they’re built straight into the cabinetry, it can be a very arduous process if you ever want to upgrade the oven. Built-in ovens are also much harder to clean and require a professional to install.

When to replace your oven

In many cases, ovens can last for many years. Nevertheless, from time to time, it will become necessary to replace the old oven with a new one. Knowing when you will need to do this can take some time, though. You will want to make the right decision so you are not wasting time or money on the process. Consider the following factors when it comes to replacing your oven:

  • Is repairing an option?

Talk to a professional about the options available to you for replacing your current oven or if you can repair the existing one. If it is possible to cost effectively repair your old oven, doing so may be a good idea. However, if you will need to make regular repairs to keep it running, this may no longer be the right option for you.

  • Are you renovating?

In some cases, you can hold off a bit if you are planning to do some renovating in your kitchen in the coming months. You may want to hold off so that you can be sure that you are investing in an appliance that will fit well into your overall new layout. It is a good idea to choose a new oven that will last for many more years when the time comes.

  • Is it working okay?

In some cases, there is no need to replace your current oven if it is serving your needs just fine. However, if it is not heating properly or inconsistently, it could be costing you money on wasted food. In some cases, it may not be large enough or it may not have the features you need.

Contact local home appliance experts

When it’s time to replace

There are some circumstances in which you will need to replace your oven no matter what. If your oven has any of the following, replace it now rather than waiting.

  • Does it need frequent repairs?
  • Are your energy bills very high as a result of the oven?
  • Do you plan to renovate your kitchen right now?
  • Is there a concern when it comes to safety?

If it is time to make these changes, putting it off will not make the process any easier to do.

Categories
Walls & flooring

Epoxy coating a garage floor

Ever stepped on a rusty nail in your garage? Or perhaps you’ve got oil stains that just won’t budge? Say goodbye to these problems because epoxy coating is the ultimate solution for a tough, durable, and good-looking garage floor. This post will walk you through the entire process of epoxy coating your garage floor, from prep to finish, along with some handy tips to ensure a great result.

What is epoxy coating?

Garage floor epoxy coatings work well for many garage floors, and for good reason. They’re basically a two-part system—a resin and a catalyst, usually a polyamine hardener—that mix together to form a tough, durable finish. The epoxy resin bonds with the concrete, creating a seamless, stain-resistant surface that’s easy to clean and looks great.

Plus, you can choose from various colours and finishes to match your garage’s style.

How do epoxy coatings work?

applying epoxy coating on garage floor starting from the sides
Grey epoxy coating for the garage floors | Source: iStock

An epoxy floor covering forms a robust chemical bond with the surface they’re applied to, creating a durable, protective seal. When you mix epoxy resin and hardener, the chemical reaction causes them to harden and cure. This process allows the epoxy to penetrate the pores of concrete, masonry, or other substrates, locking it in place for long-lasting protection.

The result is a garage coating impervious to different elements, including heat, corrosive chemicals, UV rays, abrasions, scuff marks, and general wear and tear. This makes it an excellent choice for transforming tired concrete into a polished, functional and long-lasting surface in garages.

Epoxy coatings also adhere remarkably well to a variety of materials beyond concrete, including fibre, glass, and metal. Their versatility and durability make epoxy an easy choice for homeowners looking to refresh and protect their garage floors.

6 Benefits of epoxy coatings for garage floors

Epoxy coatings for garage floors offer a number of advantages.

garage flooring with epoxy coating
Epoxy floor coating for a garage | Source: iStock

1. Enhanced appearance

An epoxy coating is a significant improvement to the appearance of a garage floor, transforming a plain concrete surface into a sleek and glossy one. The smooth, uniform application creates a polished look that enhances the space’s overall aesthetic.

But that’s not all—you can choose from a variety of colours and finishes, including solid colours, metallic finishes, and even decorative flakes to match your garage’s style.

2. Cost-effective solution

Compared to other flooring options, epoxy-coated garage floors offer great value for money. One application ensures complete coverage and long-lasting durability, eliminating concerns over frequent, costly repairs or replacements. Typically, the cost to epoxy coat a garage floor varies between $5 to $15 per square meter, depending on the epoxy type and project complexity. 

3. Exceptional durability

Busy garage? No problem. The tough, abrasion-resistant finish of an epoxy coating can handle heavy foot traffic and the weight of the vehicles, as well as any dropped tools. Epoxy coatings also resist chemicals, oil, and grease, making them ideal for places where you park or perform repairs on those vehicles—exactly what a garage is.

4. Impressive longevity

Epoxy garage floor coatings can last decades. Many homeowners report that epoxy floors still maintain their vibrant colour and pristine condition even after 20 or 30 years. That said, its lifespan varies depending on factors like the epoxy’s quality, the concrete surface’s preparation, and the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.

5. Superior protection

The seamless, impermeable layer of epoxy coating shields concrete floors from various hazards, including chemical spills, oil stains, moisture damage, and heavy impact. Epoxy coatings also create a barrier that hinders moisture from penetrating the concrete, preventing mould and mildew growth.

6. Remarkable resistance

Epoxy coatings are engineered to resist the elements. They can withstand dramatic temperature fluctuations, exposure to corrosive chemicals, and vehicles’ constant weight and movement without compromising their integrity. They also resist UV rays, preventing fading and discolouration over time.

Preparing the garage floor for epoxy coating

It’s a good idea to prepare your garage floor before you apply epoxy coating properly. Here’s a list of materials you’ll need to get started:

  • Concrete cleaner
  • A stiff-bristled broom
  • A pressure washer (optional)
  • A shop vacuum
  • A scraper
  • A patching compound
  • A concrete etching solution
  • A paint roller and tray
  • A paintbrush
  • Masking tape
  • Safety glasses and gloves

Applying the epoxy coating

Preparation

If your garage floor isn’t properly prepped, the epoxy won’t adhere properly, and your beautiful new coating won’t last as long. Adequate preparation involves filling all holes, patching damaged areas, removing moisture, and ensuring the concrete is sealed and free of cracks.

Cleaning

cleaning an outdoor flooring with a power washer
Clean the floors before you start | Source: iStock

The next step is to ensure the concrete is clean and free of dirt, grease, oil, and loose or flaking material.

Vacuum the floor to remove all dust, dirt and debris. Mix a degreasing solution with vinegar or citrus. spray it on oil stains and grease spots, and wipe them with a microfiber cloth. If you’ve got some stubborn stains, a pressure washer can come in handy.

Washing

Etching the concrete with a concrete etching solution helps create a rough surface, allowing the epoxy to bond properly.

Spread an acid solution on the floor evenly and use a stiff-bristled broom to work it into the floor. Leave it for about 10 minutes, then power wash the floor. Once you acid wash and hose down the floor and it’s dry, vacuum it to remove all residue.

Taping

Put painter’s tape or duct tape along the base of the garage door as a boundary within which the epoxy will be applied. Once you tape up the walls and edges, you are ready to paint on the epoxy coating.

Mixing

mixing epoxy for garage flooring
Mix your epoxy well | Source: iStock

Improper mixing can lead to an uneven, weak, or brittle finish, so following the manufacturer’s instructions and taking the necessary precautions is essential.

  1. Prepare the mixing area: Choose a clean, well-ventilated area and wear safety glasses and gloves.
  2. Open the containers: Carefully open the epoxy resin and hardener containers, ensuring you have the correct quantities as stated in the product’s instructions.
  3. Pre-mix the resin: Stir the epoxy resin for about a minute using a clean mixing stick or a drill with a stirring bit attached.
  4. Add the hardener: Pour the hardener into the resin container, adding the entire amount.
  5. Thorough blending: Blend the resin and hardener for at least 3 minutes using a drill with a stirring bit attached. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container to ensure all the material is blended. Observe the manufacturer’s recommended proportions for the resin and hardener to ensure complete blending. Using incorrect proportions or not mixing thoroughly can result in a weak, brittle, or uneven coating.
  6. Rest time: Once thoroughly mixed, put the lid back on the container loosely and let it sit in the shade for about 30 minutes. The container might feel warm to the touch as the chemicals react.

Cutting

To create a neat border around your garage floor, use a 3-mm paintbrush to apply a 4-mm line of epoxy around the edges of all walls, extending into seams and corners. This “cutting in” step will prevent epoxy from spilling onto the walls and ensure a clean, finished look.

Application

a worker applying epoxy coating on garage floors
Choose a colour you like for your garage | Source: iStock

Now it’s time to roll on the epoxy to your garage flooring!

  • Grab your paint roller–you can attach it to a longer pole for easier reach–and then dip the roller into the epoxy tray to start. Make sure only the bottom half of the roller is coated.
  • Start in the corner farthest from the exit, working towards the garage door to avoid stepping on wet epoxy. Apply the epoxy to an area of about 1 square metre using a large “W” pattern, ensuring even coverage and watching for air bubbles. Roll the roller back and forth over the epoxy, filling the entire area without leaving roller marks.
  • Continue applying the epoxy in corresponding sections until you reach the garage door. Allow each section to dry slightly before moving on to the next.

Remember to work quickly since epoxy cures just as fast. Avoid stepping on wet epoxy by using a piece of plywood or a walking board to move around the garage floor while the epoxy is wet. Keep your roller clean using a solvent or cleaner, as the epoxy manufacturer recommends.

Coating with epoxy flakes

If you’re using epoxy flakes to add a decorative touch to your garage floor, sprinkle them onto each section of wet epoxy. Grab a handful of flakes and sprinkle them liberally over the floor, ensuring even coverage. Some flakes come in containers with shaker tops for easier application. 

You might want to practise your sprinkling or shaking technique outside the garage on a tarp before you start. This will help you get a feel for the right amount of flakes to use and avoid over-application. Once you’re comfortable with the technique, carefully sprinkle the flakes onto your wet epoxy and allow the floor to dry completely.

Curing and drying

Epoxy coatings typically take 24-72 hours to fully cure, depending on factors like temperature, humidity, and the type of epoxy used. Warmer temperatures and lower humidity generally speed up the curing process, while cooler temperatures and higher humidity can slow it down.

Avoid walking on the epoxy floor for at least 24 hours to prevent marring the surface and allow the coating to harden entirely. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific curing times and recommendations.

DIY epoxy application or hiring a professional

If you plan to DIY your epoxy garage floor coating, first look at your garage floor and document its current condition. Take photos of any existing cracks, holes, or uneven areas, and even note down any other damage or issues you see. This record will help you track any changes to the floor after you apply the epoxy coating. It could also be helpful if you need to make repairs in the future or if you need to file an insurance claim.

When aiming for a flawless, long-lasting epoxy floor, calling in an experienced professional is often the wisest choice. Professional installers have specialised expertise, state-of-the-art equipment, and dedicated manpower to ensure a seamless application process and a superior-quality finish.

Make sure the person you choose to apply the epoxy coating to your garage floor has the proper license and qualifications.

Epoxy for durable garage floors

Epoxy coatings offer a durable, stylish, and versatile solution for garage floor coating, transforming a drab space into a functional and attractive area. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or prefer professional help, epoxy coatings can enhance your garage’s appearance and safeguard it from wear and tear longer.

Before embarking on a DIY project, consider consulting a garage flooring treatment expert in epoxy coatings to ensure you choose the right epoxy and application techniques for your specific needs.

Contact local flooring experts


FAQs about epoxy garage floor coatings

How long does garage floor epoxy last?

Epoxy coatings are known for their durability and longevity. When properly installed, garages with epoxy floors can last for decades without cracking or peeling. The smooth, even surface of an epoxy-coated floor makes cleaning a breeze, as nothing sticks to it.

How many coats of epoxy do you need on garage floors?

Most garage floors require two coats of epoxy for optimal durability and protection. The first coat acts as a primer, while the second coat provides the final finish. However, always check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific recommendations based on your chosen epoxy product.

How much does epoxy garage floor coating cost?

The cost of epoxy garage floor coating depends on your garage size and type of epoxy. On average, expect to spend between $1 and $5 per square foot for materials and labour.

How do you clean epoxy-coated garage floors?

Start by sweeping or vacuuming loose dirt. For persistent stains, opt for a gentle detergent and a moist mop, steering clear of harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners to prevent damage to the epoxy surface.

Categories
Wellbeing

Chiro vs physio: What’s the difference?

When you’re experiencing back pain or pain in other areas of the body, the need for relief is pressing. Knowing the difference between physio and chiro practices will help you  to decide which profession to see in times of need. Which one can take better care of your health for the time being? Or which is more appropriate for long-term care?

Contact local experts

There are several overlaps between these two professions as both can treat many of the same conditions. The goal is the same; to help you with resolving your problem and improving your wellbeing. Although each will treat the same condition they will treat the issue in different ways. Physiotherapists and chiropractors have their fundamental differences and but have each completed relevant accredited courses.

Source: Silky Oak Chiropractic

What does a physiotherapist do?

  • Diagnosis, management and prevention of movement disorders
  • Pain focused. Known for treating sports injuries, body pain and posture issues
  • Take into account the patient’s individual needs
  • Commonly used techniques: soft tissue, taping, ice, needling and ultrasound
  • Soft tissue, joint and muscular problems. Focus on improving physical functions
  • Biomechanical analysis of specific movements and Ergonomic assessments

What does a chiropractor do?

  • Diagnosis, correction and prevention of disorders of your skeletal, muscular and nervous system
  • Known for treating spinal and neck conditions. Unlike physiotherapists, chiropractors put a strong emphasis on the proper functioning relationship between the nervous system, the spine and other joints.
  • Many chiropractors are focused on biomechanics and optimising the relationship between joints, muscle, tendons and ligaments
  • Can treat multiple problems that may be influencing one another.
  • More lifestyle focused and may suggest modifications to daily activities.

Peter Luan, an experienced practitioner at Fort healthcare, provided the following case study to show the overlaps between a physio and a chiro. The clinic takes multiple approaches when it comes to treating specific conditions, and takes time to educate patients about the treatment.

“The patient is an elite basketball player. He is experiencing lower back pain and pain that radiates down the leg and possibly into the foot and toes. He is concerned about his lower back pain might stop him from playing professional basketball.”

“He was previously diagnosed with sciatica. After the assessment, we still saw symptoms of sciatica as the patient had not fully recovered from his surgery.”

“We put him on a strengthening regime that focuses on activating his core and glute muscle. After a month, he was able to play a game at full intensity.”

Source: Lombard Chiropractic

From the case study above, we see that physios and chiros both take the biomechanical analysis of your body conditions before providing you with a customised exercise prescription. In this scenario, physio care proves to be helpful for post-surgery recovery and seems more favourable. However, there is no single universal answer.

Contact local physiotherapists

What are the other things to consider?

  • Location: some clinic locations are more convenient than others. They benefit those who just want to go to a clinic nearby for a quick after work treatment.
  • Specialisation: Some practitioners have a track record of dealing with specific injuries, such as sports injuries and post-surgery care. Check the practitioners’ profile and reviews before you book the appointment.
  • Booking: Online booking/Phone booking. A well-organised schedule ensures that no time of yours goes to waste and the practitioners treat your pain promptly.
  • Health insurance cover: The first-time consultation fee is $70 – $100. Some clinics are well-connected with the private health insurances and can reimburse you the money on the spot.
  • Qualifications: Most practitioners should have a Bachelor Degree or above. When they are a member of Australian physiotherapy association, it’s a plus. It means they’re probably actively engaged in the community and family with the latest practices.
  • Staff available: Check to see the type of staff that are available. Clinics with multiple professions under the same roof have more experiences dealing with different conditions. A chiro rather than a physio might better treat a condition. Sometimes multiple therapies are recommended to manage the condition for a sustainable recovery.
  • Programs: Check out the programs and the practitioners’ background. Some programs are more targeted towards your problem than the others.
Categories
Building & renovations

The A-Z guide to talking like a tradie

It’s no doubt that at some point, you’ll need to hire a trades or services professional. The technicalities of some trades and services are easier to understand than others, and some use jargon and terms that you may not have heard of before. Whether it’s an emergency job or a planned project, it never hurts to be a little more informed.

Rather than sitting there dazed and confused by the amount of words you don’t know how to comprehend, we’ve put together a handy dictionary of terms to help you learn the lingo.

A

Absorption Field – A leeching or seeping field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) – An ABS is in the form of a black plastic pipe that is used in plumbing for drains and vents.

Adaptor (Plumbing) – A fitting that connects two pipes of different sizes.

Adjustable Hot Limit Stop – This stop restricts the output of hot water in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding, which is done by limiting the swing to the hot side.

Aerator – An insert that is screwed onto a faucet outlet which mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.

Aggregate – Type of crushed rock used as a top layer in some flat-roof applications.

Air Admittance Valve – A device used in plumbing that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter inside the pipe and equalise the pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air Chamber – A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a valve or faucet.

Air Gap – The Air Gap’s purpose is to prevent backflow contamination in drainage systems.

Airbrick – A perforated brick which is used for ventilation, especially for under-floor spaces. They are usually used in older houses to provide ventilation to pantry’s.

Angle Iron – Structural steel bent at a 90-degree angle which is used to fasten or reinforce framing joints.

Arborist – A tree surgeon.

As-built plans – As-built plans show how the space was constructed, including any changes that have been made from the original house plans.

Asbestos – A highly heat-resistant fibrous silicate mineral that can be woven into fabrics, and can is usually used in brake linings and fire-resistant and insulating materials.

Auger (or Closet Auger) – An Auger is a bendable rod with a curved end and is used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.

Whatever home project you’re tackling, it’ll pay to learn some lingo / Souce: LG Builders

B

Back Flow – Back Flow occurs when water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventor – The device used to prevent Back Flow (see above), especially into a potable water supply. It is usually required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pull-out faucet spouts and kitchen sprayers.

Back Pressure – Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Backfill – The soil or gravel used to fill in against a wall or foundation.

Backup – Occurs when there is an overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.

Baffle – An object placed in an appliance to change the direction or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.

Balancing Valve – This is a water heater valve that controls the level of water flow and balances the heat distribution to a number of locations.

Ball Check Valve – A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop a flow in one direction.

Ball Joint – A Ball Joint is a spherical assembly in shower heads that allows it to rotate and pivot.

Ballast – Generally mixed on site with cement to form concrete for the smaller jobs around a building site. It is made up of pebbles and either frit sand or sharp sand.

Ballcock – A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling the tank. Connected to a float via a metal arm, the toilet refills the tank until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve after flushing.

Bannister – This is the railing of a staircase, made up of the hand rail, spindles and base rail. Blow Torch – Used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurised fuel and air to generate the flame for the torch.

Barge Board – A brick cut crossways to give a reduced length. It can be cut in quarters, half or three quarter bats.

Bidet – A Bidet has a similar appearance to a toilet bowl. It is a plumbing fixture used for personal hygiene, which is floor mounted and usually next to the toilet. It consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.

Bleed – The process of draining a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.

Blackwater – Waste water coming from a toilet.

Blowbag – A drain-cleaning device that consists of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. This device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water flows in, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. It is also known as a blowfish.

Blowdown – Occurs when partial venting or draining under pressure, on the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. The pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.

Boiler – A sealed tank where water is transformed into steam for heating or power.

Boiler Feed – A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.

Bonnet – The top portion of a compression valve assembly that holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat the other end of the assembly.

Boxing In – Generally refers to the construction of a timber frame carcass around heating pipes, internal soil stacks etc.

Brackish Water – Contains bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Branch Drain – A fixture used in plumbing that leads to the main drain line.

Brass – A slang word for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.

Brick Bonds – A pattern of bricks to ensure stability of the brickwork – with the most common bond called a stretcher bond.

Brickie – Slang or colloquial language for a bricklayer.

Burst Pressure – Describes the internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.

Bushing – A fitting that is threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.

Buttress – The process of thickening a wall to form a vertical projection to strengthen the wall.

C

Caulking – Describes the task of sealing joints and openings by applying a flexible compound or sealant – commonly known as decorator’s filler.

Cavity Wall – Usually in construction for external walls, Cavity Walls comprises of an inner and outer wall – also known as leafs – with a space between, being the cavity, filled with insulation.

Change Order – A written document which officially modifies the plans and specifications of the construction contract.

Chippie – A Chippie is a slang or colloquial term for a carpenter.

Circuit – In electrical terms, an electric circuit is a path in which electrons from a voltage or current source flow.

Cladding – A covering or coating on a structure or material.

Cleanout Plug – A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access to clear an obstruction that may exist.

Closet Bend – A curved waste pipe that fits under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.

Closet Flange – A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend (see above). It is also known as a Floor Flange.

Collar – A galvanised sheet metal restricting device that is used in conjunction with a plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.

Collar Tie – A horizontal board attached perpendicular to rafter.

Compression Fitting – A type of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube. It is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering.

Contingency – Refers to the backup budget for unseen/unpredictable additional costs during construction.

Conveyance – The legal process of transferring property from one owner to another.

Corbelling – Corbelling is the projection of masonry formed by building successive courses outwards by a small amount to form small steps with each additional course.

Coupling – This is a short fitting used to join two separate pipes.

Courier – A company or employee of a company that transports packages and documents.

Coving – Usually made of plaster, Coving is the moulding around a room at the junction of a wall and ceiling.

Cowl – A short fitting used to join two different pipes.

CPVC – CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, which is a black plastic pipe that can withstand high temperatures. They are mostly used in water supply systems.

Curtain Drain – Trenches filled with gravel covering perforated pipe, acting as a gutter system to remove unwanted water away from a house. The trench is lined with filter fabric to ensure that the perforated pipe remains free of clogs from dirt and silt over the years.

D

Dam – A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the amount of water in the toilet bowl.

De-humidistat – A control mechanism needed to operate a mechanical ventilation system that is based on the relative humidity in the home.

Decking – The timber platform or terrace attached to a house or other building.

Diaphragm – A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the body to regulate the water flow from supply lines. Diaphragms eliminate the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

Diffuser – A device used to reduce velocity and increase the static pressure of a fluid passing through a particular system.

Dip Tube – A tube inside a water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.

Diverter – A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet straight to the shower head.

Dope – Dope is a lubricant that is used by plumbers on pipe threads.

Doublehung – The window frame on doublehung windows are operable – meaning they can move up and down. The sashes on a doublehung windows also tilt in for easy cleaning.

Downspout – A Downspout is a pipe used for draining water from roof gutters. It is also known as a leader.

Drain-Waste-Vent System – A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.

Drip Edge – A non-staining, non-corrosive material that is used along the eaves and rakes to allow water runoff to drip clear of underlying construction.

Drywall – Also known as plasterboard, gypsum board and wallboard, Drywall is the flat surface of most interior walls – to which you apply paint, wallpaper or tiles.

E

Easement – A formal contract which allows a party to use another’s property for a specific job or purpose.

Eaves – The part of a roof that meets the walls of a building, also known as the edges of the roof that hangs over the face of a wall.

Eaves Flashing – The additional layer of roofing material that is applied at the eaves to assist in preventing damage from water backup.

Edging strips – Describes boards that are nailed along eaves and rakes in order to provide secure edges for reroofing.

Efflorescence – Unsightly powdery white salts brought to surface of brickwork.

Effluent – Septic system liquid waste.

Egress – Describes the exit of the home. For example, an egress window is required in every bedroom and basement.

Elbow – A 90 or 45 degree curved fitting, used to change the direction of a pipe run. It is also known as an “ell”.

Escutcheon – A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in a fixture or wall.

Estimate – Describes the anticipated cost of a job, which can include the cost of: materials, labour, construction, remodeling or repair.

Excavate – The process of making a hole or channel by digging.

Exposure – Describes the portion of a roof that is exposed to the weather after it is installed.

F

Faucet – A device for controlling the flow of liquid from a pipe by opening or closing an orifice.

Fitting – Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. They come in many shapes, sizes and connection styles.

Fixture – Describes anything that accepts or discharges wastewater or water.

Flange – The edge or rim at the end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.

Flapper – Describes a rubber flap with a ball-like shape at the bottom of a toilet. It lifts to allow flushing and seals the tank off for refilling. It also allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Flashing – A metal sheet which is usually made of lead. It is used to deflect water at a junction between roofs and walls, or around chimney stacks etc.

Flex Coupling – A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the ends of pipes. It is mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.

Float Ball – A floating device connected to the ballcock inside a toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.

Flow Control Valve – A device designed to reduce the amount of water flow into a plumbing fixture. It is often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.

Flow Rate – The measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Flux – A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. It is applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.

Frog – Concave ‘V’ shaped indent on the top of a brick.

Learn some tradie terms for your next home project / Source: Renomate

G

Galvanising – The process of applying a zinc coating to a finished product to protect it from corrosion. The coating can be applied by

Gasket – A flat device usually made of fibre or rubber, and used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.

Gate – A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe or tunnel.

Gate Diverter – The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.

Gauge – Describes the thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to grades of quality with certain types of lavatories and sinks.

Glazing bar – A thin bar shapes to receive panes of glass within the main frame of a window.

GPF – GPF stands for Gallons Per Flush. It measures the rate of waterflow of toilets and flush valves. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF.

Gravity Operated Toilet – A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.

Gray Water – Waste water from fixtures other than toilets.

Grease Trap – A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. It is usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.

Gyprock – A building material used for making the surfaces of interior walls, consisting of sheets of compacted plaster with a covering of plasterboard.

H

H Clip – A small metal clip formed in the shape of an “H” that fits at the joints of two plywood sheets. It is normally used on roof sheeting.

Hanger – A device used to support pipes.

Hard Water – Describes natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of the presence of calcium, minerals of dissolved solids in a solution – measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.

Hardware – Refers to tools, machinery and other durable equipment.

Hazard Insurance – Insurance that protects against damage caused by windstorms, fire or other common hazards.

Heatpump – This device transfers heat from a cooler area to a hotter area by using mechanical energy. For example, in a refrigerator.

Heating Load – The amount of heating that is required to keep a building at a specific temperature during the winter.

Hearth – Describes the area directly in front of a fireplace that is fireproof. It is usually made out of brick, tile or stone.

Highlights – A light spot, area or streak on a surface.

Hip Roof – A type of roof that is formed by sloping roof planes on all sides.

Hip Shingles – Types of shingles used to cover the inclined external angle that is formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.

Hose Bibb – An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.

I

I Beam – A type of steel beam with a cross section in the shape of the letter “I”. Typically used for long spans such as a double garage door.

ID – Stands for Inside Diameter. It measures the inside width of a pipe.

Impeller – A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. It spins at a high speed, which draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.

Incandescent Lamp – A type of lamp that employs an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat.

Insulating Glass – A window or door that insulates by having a sealed air space between two panes. It is also known as Double Glass.

Insulation – To insulate is to protect something by interposing material that prevents the loss of heat or intrusion of sound.

Interceptor – A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.

Interior Finish – The material used to cover interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.

Interlocking Shingles – A type of roofing shingle, which is shaped and installed so that adjacent shingles lock each shingle into place.

Irrigation – Describes a lawn sprinkler system.

J

Jack Stud – A stud that has been cut down to be placed above and/or below an opening. It provides support to the lintel trimmer and sill trimmer.

Jamb – Describes a side pot or surface of a doorway, window or fireplace.

Joinery – The wooden components of a building, such as the stairs, doors and door and window frames – viewed collectively.

Joint Compound – A term used in both plumbing and carpentry. In plumbing, it is a material applied to threaded connections to help prevent leaks. In carpentry, Joint Compound is a wet gypsum material that is applied to sheetrock joints.

Joist – A length of timber or steel supporting part of a structure of a building, typically arranged in parallel to support a floor or ceiling.

Jumpers – A type of water pipe installed in a water meter pit, or electrical wire that is installed in the electric house panel meter socket before the meter is installed.

K

Keeper – The metal latch plate on a door frame where a doorknob plunger latches.

Keyless – A light fixture made of plastic or porcelain that operates by a pull string. They are generally found in attics, basements or crawl spaces.

Kilowatt (kw) – The metric for 1000 watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit that is used in measuring electrical consumption.

kPA – A metric unit for pressure, where 100 kPA = one atmosphere.

L

L Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a blue strip. Type ‘L’ copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type ‘M’.

Laminating – The process of bonding two or more layers of materials.

Lattice – A framework of criss-crossed wood or metal or metal strips that form patterned spaces.

Leach Lines – Leach Lines are pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field; a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.

Lintel – A horizontal structural device that supports the load over an opening such as a window or a door.

Load-Bearing Walls – Non-load-bearing walls are walls that simply divide rooms. They are able to be knocked down or relocated.

Low Consumption Toilet – A class of toilets designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. They are also known as “water-saving” toilets.

Louver – A vented opening that leads into the home, that has a series of horizontal slats.

Lumens – Lumens is a unit of measure for total light output, which is the amount of light that falls on one square foot.

M

M Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a red stripe.

Main – The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. It is also referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.

Making Good – A general term referring to the repair of plaster and decor after. For example, forming a new doorway into an existing wall.

Manifold – Describes a fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.

Mapp Gas – A colourless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.

MCL – Stands for Maximum Contaminant Level, and describes the maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.

Metal Fatigue – A type of breakage of metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.

Mezzanine Floor – Means an extra floor, possibly inserted between the floor and ceiling of a very tall room.

Mitre Joint – An angled joint that is similar to that in a picture frame.

Mullion – An upright post between window frames.

N

Nail Inspection – A type of inspection that is made by a municipal building inspector after drywall material is hung with nails and screws.

Natural Finish – A type of finish that is transparent, which does not seriously alter the original colour or grain of the natural wood.

Nesting – The method of reroofing with new asphalt shingles over old ones in which the top edge of the new shingles is butted against the bottom edge of the existing tab.

Newel – Vertical post at the top and bottom of a staircase to support the handrail.

Nipple – A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.

No-Hub Connector – A connector for a no-hub iron pipe that consists of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps.

Nogging – A short piece of timber used to stiffen timber partition walls horizontally between the vertical studs.

Non-ferrous – A term used when something does not contain iron.

Non-fibered Aluminium Roof Coating – A thin but efficient reflective barrier that is designed to reflect the sun’s harmful rays and to prolong the surface life on roofs.

Non-fibered Roof Coating – A coating that gives added protection to low-sloped roofs, as well as metal and masonry surfaces.

Nosing or Bull Nose – The rounded edge of a stair tread projecting beyond the riser or the finished edge of a window board.

O

O-Ring – A rubber washer that is rounded instead. O-Rings are used in valve systems to create a watertight seal.

Oakum – Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with an oil or other waterproofing agent. It is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.

OD – OD stands for Outside Diameter. It measures the outside width of a pipe.

Outrigger – Describes the extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. It is usually characterised by a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.

Overhang – An outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof, which is the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outdoor wall.

Overflow Hood – The decorative hood concealing the overflow on a bath drain.

Overflow Tube – Describes the vertical tube that exists inside a toilet tank that directs water in the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow.

P

Panel Beater – A person whose job is to beat the bodywork of motor vehicles.

Parapet – The low wall at the edge of a roof.

Partition – A structure dividing a space – especially a light interior wall.

Party Wall – A wall separating two buildings owned by different people.

Patio – An outdoor area, usually paved, adjoining a house and used as an area for lounging or dining.

PB – Stands for Polybutylene. It is a bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.

PE – Stands for Polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line.

Pebble Dash – An external wall which is rendered, then finished with stones or pebbles applied to the render.

Pergola – An outdoor structure designed to shade the area.

Persuader – Slang name or nickname for a hammer.

PEX – Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE (see above). In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.

Pilaster – Projecting part of a square column which is attached to a wall.

Plain Tile – A rectangular-shaped flat roofing tile.

Plaster – A gypsum or lime-based mixture added with water that is applied to walls or ceilings to create a smooth hard finish when dry.

Plasterboard – Prefabricated sheets of plaster between two layers of paper for applying to walls and ceilings.

Plinth – Projecting base to external walls. It is also used to describe the board around the bottom of kitchen units.

Q

Quarry Tile – An unglazed floor tile, typically of a reddish-brown colour.

Quarter Round – A term that is typically used in the flooring industry, which is a convex moulding that contains a cross section in the form of a quarter circle.

Queen Closer – A brick cut in half lengthways which is also referred to as a closer.

Quick-setting cement – An asphalt-based cement which is used to adhere tabs of strip shingles to the course.

Quote/Quotation – The price provided by a service provider to complete the job specified.

R

Racking Back – This is the practice of building the ends of brick walls to a height of several courses, which essentially provides a level string line for filling in the courses between both ends.

Rafter – A structural timber rising from eaves to ridge to support pitched roof coverings.

Raking or Raking Out – This describes the task of removing old mortar from in between brickwork to allow for new mortar to be applied.

Rebar – This term is short for “reinforcing bar”. It refers to the ribbed steel rods that are placed in concrete foundations and retaining walls that give the structure extra support.

Reducer – A fitting that allows different sized pipes to be joined together.

Relief Valve – A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in a system.

Relieving Arch – An arch that is constructed above a lintel or beam to take the weight of the wall above.

Remodel – To remodel something is to give it a whole new purpose. For example, converting a coat closet into a powder room.

Render – The external sand-cement coating for walls.

Renovation – Renovation is making something that is old; new and improved. For example, updating the master bathroom with new tiles and fixtures.

Restoration – Returning something to its original state, such as pulling up the carpet and sanding and polishing the hardwood floor.

Return – A plumbing fitting with an 180 degree bend.

Ridge – The top of a pitched roof.

Riser – A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.

Roof Pitch – Describes the slope of a roof, usually expressed as an angle or ratio.

Roof Truss – Prefabricated structural timer framework to support roof covering.

Roughcast – Describes an external wall coating consisting of a cement-based render with either stones or pebbles mixed into the mortar.

RSJ – Stands for Rolled Steel Joist, which is an ‘I’ section steel beam.

S

Scald Guard – A type of valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology.

Scale – A thin coating of layer on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent the transfer of heat.

Sediment – The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank, which can also be known as lime.

Septic Tank – A type of tank that is used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. They are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.

Shutoff Valve – Valves that are installed under sinks and toilets and are used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. It is also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop of Supply Stop.

Siphoning – The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.

Sleeve – A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.

Soft Water – Water that has been treated so that is has low mineral content.

Soil Pipe – A pipe that carries waste from toilets.

Solder – A member of the legal profession who is qualified to deal with conveyancing, wills and other legal matters.

Sparky – Slang term for an electrician.

Sweep – A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.

T

T&P Valve – A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.

Tailpiece – The section of a pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.

Tee – Describes a plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T”, used to connect three sections of pipe.

Tee Fitting – The fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90 degree angle.

Teflon Tape – A type of white tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. This tape possesses non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.

Timber – A type of wood prepared for use in building and carpentry.

Trap – Describes the curved section of a drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom.

Trap Seal– The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.

U

Ultraviolet Degradation – The reduction in certain performance limits that is caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet light.

Undercoat – The coating applied before the finishing or top coats of a painting job. It is also known as the Prime coat.

Underlayment – A secondary layer of roofing that is water resistant. It is installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles.

Union – A fitting used in plumbing that joins pipes end-to-end so that they can be dismantled.

Upholstery – The process of fitting furniture such as sofas and chairs with springs, webbing, padding, fabric or leather.

V

Vapour Retarder/Barrier – A substance that prevents the transmission of water vapour.

Veneer – A thin layer of wood that is laminated or glued onto a surface to give the beauty of solid wood.

Verandah – A place that leads to the outdoors, which usually has the characteristics of a spacious, long, narrow structure which also has room for tables and chairs.

Valve – A device that regulates the flow of water.

Valve Seat – The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vent – A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air, and also lets air into the drain system to keep the pressure balanced.

Voltage – A measure of electrical potential.

W

Water Closet – Another name for a toilet.

Water Table – The location of the underground water. It is also the vertical distance from the earth’s surface to the underground water.

Water Hammer Arrestor – A device that is installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that occurs when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing a loud banging noise in the pipes.

Wax Ring – A seal that is located between the floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.

Weatherisation – Describes the work on the exterior of a building in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling. It can involve caulking cracks, installing weather-stripping and installing storm windows and doors.

Wet Vent – Describes a pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains – it also connects two or more fixtures.

Whirlybird – A roof ventilator to cool the house.

Wye Fitting – A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45 degree angle.

Y

Yoke – Describes the location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes.

Z

Z-Bar Flashing – Prevents water from getting behind the brick and into the home.

Zone Valve – The device placed near the heater or cooler which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the property.

Zoning – A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property.

With this dictionary of trades and services terms, you are able to become more informed when making decisions on different jobs and projects to come. Knowing exactly what the service provider is talking about can save you a world of hassle, time and even money.

Categories
Automotive

A guide to car window tinting

Have you seen cars with tinted windows and thought it would be a good idea to try it yourself? If you want to do it right, there are certain things that you need to have in mind, and it needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing. There’s nothing worse for your car’s aesthetic than doing a bad tint job. If it results in a streak of bubbles between the window and the translucent film that is the tint, you’re in trouble. Here, we’ll go through what to take into consideration when opting for car window tinting.

Look out for bubbles

It is essential that your view is clear. So, if your tint job results in big bubbles all over the place, it certainly won’t do. However, even very small bubbles can create distortion. This is why you need to find a professional for the job, as they will make sure that the risk of them appearing is minimised. Also, if you opt for a low-quality tint, it will take about six months for bubbles to form, as the adhesive that holds the tint will begin to break.

Source: Tintacar Victoria Park

A dark shade doesn’t necessarily mean top quality

You must keep in mind that the fact that a tint is dark doesn’t necessarily mean that it does the best job of blocking heat or providing UV protection. When your car is in the sun, put one hand behind the window and the other in the sun in order to tell the difference. Generally it is true that the darker the tint is, the better it will reduce heat, but there are solutions such as high-quality ceramic tints and spectrally-selective tints that can do an even better job. This basically means that a lighter shade of something of high-quality can work better than a darker shade of something cheap.

Know your local tint laws

How dark your window tint can be really depends on where you live. Do some research and find out which country or state laws for car window tinting apply where you are located. For example, Oneflare’s car window tinting experts point out that Australia has strict laws when it comes to this. Make sure that the professional installing the window tint on your car knows these laws. If you install window tint that is way too dark, you may end up being fined and wasting money on removing the tint and getting another one that is appropriate.

Contact local car window tinting experts

Tint the windshield

Applying a very light tint to the windshield is allowed in most places. This is where you should also check local laws. If it’s legal in your location, make sure you do it. It’s the largest size window on your car, so if you tint everything else and leave it uncovered, it will kind of defeat the purpose of tinting in the first place. This is the case where you should apply the previously mentioned high-quality tints that aren’t necessarily as dark.

Avoid purple

When your tint goes purple, it means that it has aged to the point that it has lost its protective properties and that it needs to be replaced. It’s most common with tint made out of cheap materials, as they simply start to break down.

Tinting your car is a fancy way of making a statement, and also an essential aspect of protecting the inside of your car from the negative effects of the sun. Make sure that you keep these points in mind when getting your tint job. Also, it’s far better that you get a professional to do it for you than to do it yourself.

Categories
Construction

A guide to white ants

What are white ants?

White ant is a mistaken term used by individuals that do not recognise the physical qualities of termites. There is no such thing as a white ant, only termites that appear similar in movement and social behaviour.

Signs you have white ants

White ants or termites are destructive little creatures. They segregate around moist areas and chew wood in service until there is nothing left but splinters of wood. The naked eye quickly sees this once the affected area has been uncovered. Other signs that you may have white ants include:

Soft floorboards

A weakened area in your floorboards could be a sign that there are termites in floorboards and are nested beneath the surface. Worse yet, the beams may have been compromised and are weakening.

Hard to open windows

Moisture can form around the frame of windows and become a breeding ground for termites. Once they have set up a colony, the window frame can weaken and begin to stick where the wood is no longer stable.

Termite droppings

Termites will kick the droppings out of their nest, leaving a pile or a trail of dark substance that is powdery. Some resemble tiny pellets that are called frass. Tracks of frass may also be evident going up walls or along joints.

Galleries in wood

If you find dips in door frames, skirting boards or window architraves, this could be evidence of termites. They will chew a fresh board and leave small galleries in the wood that are noticeable.

Dozens of white ants crawl through old wood.
An example of white ants creating galleries in wood / Source: First Choice Pest & Termite Control

Mud trails up the side of home/building

Other signs of termites are skinny mud trails that run up the side of a home, inside or out. This is caused by droppings being scooted from piles outside of their cavities.

Faint noises coming from the walls

Faint sounds can often be heard from behind the walls that sound like tapping or chewing. While the noises may seem tiny and muffled, the termites are busy at work on your wood.

Benefits of white ant treatment

You may think that eliminating the colony of termites will rectify the problem. However, it is a lot more complicated than this. White ants will continue to return in search of food and stumble upon the same area as the others found. Keep these points in mind.

Effectiveness

A termite treatment must be sufficient for the problem to be solved. There are flying white ants that are probably searching for new breeding areas. The termite queen can lay up to one thousand eggs per day, so using an effective method of containment and trapping is imperative.

Prevention

Termites come in from the outside, so this is where prevention methods should begin. Keep dampness away from exterior house walls. Be sure to have regular inspections of white ant damage to make sure termites have not found another route inside your home. Keep water sources as far away from the foundation as possible.

Several white ants destroying some wood.
Regular inspections are critical to prevention / Source: Quality Pest Management & Solutions

Protection

Experts on white ant treatment will set up physical barriers to prevent and protect your home from returning termites. This is an excellent way to protect from another invasion, but having routine inspections will protect you from other areas becoming vulnerable.

Why do I have white ants?

Do not think that you have done something to draw white ants to your home. These insects are just on the hunt for food and shelter, and your property may be tempting. Termites need cellulose (wood), moisture and warmth to survive. Many species of white ants are already living underground and are in search of food. When building begins for a new structure, wood and concrete are the most common types of foundation. They will find this wood and make plans to move right in with you.

What is the difference between white ants and termites?

Ants and termites are similar in how they look, move and live. However, there is no such thing as a white ant. It is a termite. People began referring to termites as white ants because of the similar bodies, but you will never find an ant that is white or clear.

How often should I check for termites/white ants?

It is recommended to have your house inspected for termites once a year. However, suppose you are recovering from an infestation of termites. In that case, the specialists may place you on a management program for more frequent visits. If you have never had treatment for white ants and want to be safe, one to two years is recommended. Always be assertive to the fact that termites can move in anytime, so keep a sharp eye out for the possibility of termite damage.

Contact local pest control experts

How to get rid of white ants

Getting rid of white ants is no easy feat. It takes a professional with the right knowledge of what type of termite you have. There are over 300 different species of termites, and some are more dangerous to wood than others. There are also DIY products on the market. Still, they will help very little in tracking their habits, closing off their ability to gain entrance and to prevent any future activity. Always call a pest control expert and make sure they have the following credentials:

  • Licensed in the trade
  • Insured against damage to the residence
  • Work guaranteed for a specific length of time
  • List of references and recommendations
  • How long in the business
Categories
Pets

A guide to dog grooming

Whether your dog needs a simple quick clip or a full-on makeover, the feeling of embracing your knot-free, freshly groomed pet is blissful. We know it’s important to find the right pet groomer who can provide the best type of care for your four legged friend, so here are three tips to ensure a smooth pet groom.

When to groom your dog

According to pet groomer, Jane from Puppy Love, the best time to organise a groom is when your pet’s matting or knotting, is closer to the top of the fur. If the knots are close to the skin, it’s likely that the dog will need to be shaved by grooming from underneath the knots.

Do your dog a favour and organise a groom while the knot is not yet close to the skin.

Before and after grooming / Source: Amy’s Furry Tails

How often to groom your dog

The frequency of your grooms is an individual choice, depending more on lifestyle and preference. If it’s a clip, aim for every 10-12 weeks, but for a wash, dogs with easy to manage coats can go 6-8 weeks. Take care of your pet’s fur with frequent brushing and washing between grooms.

Keeping your dog calm during a groom

To help your pet enjoy the pampering experience, make it as comfortable as possible by keeping a favourite toy or blankie handy.

It’s important that you let the pet groomer know beforehand of any anxiety or nervousness in your pet so the expert can do their best to accommodate. It can involve helping your pet get used to the sound of the clippers or sometimes, it’s as simple as a little love. Jane says that before every pet groom, she loves getting on the dog’s level to connect with them personally.

On a visit to the groomer, try and make your dog as comfortable as possible with familiar toys or blankets / Source: Totally Groomy

After the groom is done, don’t forget to reward your pet with long cuddles or appease your dog’s love of food with a tasty treat during the groom.

Contact local pet groomers

Clipping

Clipping is the most popular pet grooming request on Oneflare, followed by bath requests. While clipping seems easy to imitate, Jane recommends a professional clip rather than a simple DIY.

“Most owners pick up some clippers because they see it’s easy but they can end up cutting their dog, developing a fear of being groomed.”

If you need a simple cut between professional clips, soften the nails first with a bath or gradually clip little by little. There are many grooming tools at your disposal, ensure such as Bristle brushes, wire-pin brushes, shedders, rakes, blades and each tool has their place. Dematting your dog is often a crucial first step if your dog has long coat.