Categories
Walls & flooring

How to polish floorboards

Floor polishing is a popular DIY renovation project. However, if not treated with care it’s easy to make mistakes and end up with a bit of a mess, rather than the shiny new floor you were hoping for.

If you can’t decide whether to hire professionals for this very task or have a go at some DIY, here is a guide on polishing timber floors that might help you to find the answer.

Different areas of the house will require different finishes / Source: Absolute

A general overview of polishing floorboards

Timber floors can not only add huge amounts of character to a room but are also very hardy and durable when polished and maintained correctly. They are a timeless blend of beauty and longevity that fits with any type of design in a room.

If your timber floors are in s high traffic area, or the polish fades, then they can easily be refurbished without having to replace them.

Polishing a timber floor is the removal of its outer layer – that part that is subject to scuffs, scratches, and marks, in order to improve the quality and look of the polished floorboards underneath.

Let’s dive into the details of how to sand and polish floorboards.

What tools do you need to polish floorboards?

  • Drum sander
  • Dust mask
  • Earmuffs
  • Hammer
  • Hand sander
  • Nail punch
  • Safety glasses

How do I prepare to sand floorboards?

Before getting started the area should be prepared for sanding. You may have a carpet covering over your timber floor which will have to be removed. The best way is to cut it into squares using a sharp utility knife and take them out piece by piece. Some houses have vinyl tiles laid over timber floor which is also required to be removed prior to sanding.

  • The room in which the work is carried out should be completely empty to prevent dust from getting into and onto everything.
  • Remove all the staples that are in the floorboards using pliers, and level off any nails using a nail punch to make the floor surface level and suitable for sanding
  • Be sure to open your windows and close your doors to manage dust levels in the space
  • Wear a dust mask and safety glasses

How to sand a timber floor

The type of sander will be different depending on the surface you have to sand. When you buy or hire a sander, it’s best to ask the manufacturer or retailer the best types of sanding paper to use.

It is often suggested to use 3 types of sandpaper on your drum sander. You should sand the whole room with the coarsest sandpaper, then re-sand all the surface with medium sandpaper and finally you repeat the process with the finest sandpaper. Hard to reach areas and corners should be sanded by hand with fine sandpaper.

Useful tip: the number on sandpaper indicates “grains” per cm2 it has. Grit size of sandpaper is usually stated as a number that is inversely related to the particle size. A small number such as 20 or 40 indicates a coarse grit, while a large number such as 1500 indicates a fine grit.

Once sanding is done, you should fill the all the nail holes, cracks with a water-based putty and leave it for drying.

DIY floor sanding and polishing

There are usually 2 types of polyurethane: water-based and oil-based. Water-based tends to be preferable because of its low odour and quicker drying.

The varnishes differ also by the gloss level: there are high-gloss, semi-glossy and glossy, matte and semi-matt varnishes. Floors finished with high-gloss varnish shine like a mirror. Semi-gloss and semi-matt varnishes reflect less light from the surface.

When choosing a varnish for a timber floor, it is also necessary to take into account the type of room in which the work will be carried out:

  • In the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is advisable to use compounds that are durable against exposure to moisture – urethane, urethane-alkyd and polyurethane varnishes for the timber floor.
  • For the living room, hall and timber stairs, you need to buy especially resistant varnishes to abrasion. These include acid-cured, organic and water-based varnishes based on polyurethane resins.
  • For areas with high traffic, urethane varnishes with an anti-slip effect are used.

All types of finishes require mixing. This should be done according to the manufacturer’s instructions and will depend on the type of the finish. It can be as simple as shaking the container, or it may involve mixing in a hardener and straining the finish a few times.

  • Perform finishing of the timber floor with varnish at room temperature from 12 to 25 degrees celsius. Only at this temperature will the composition dry well and not lose its decorative and protective properties.
  • Using a special varnish brush is recommended.
  • Choose one of the walls to begin and follow the direction of the floor’s grain.
  • Smooth strokes should be aimed for, aggressive movement might cause bubbles in the finish.
  • Take into account how you will exit the room. Be sure not to varnish yourself into a corner of the room. Start in a far corner, and work your way towards the open door.

After application, allow the varnish to dry well. Each subsequent layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Different varnishes have their own drying time, which is indicated on the varnish label so be sure to check instructions.

Guest bedroom with timber floorboards
Floorboards offer a clean, timeless look / Source: Shutterstock

DIY vs professional to polish floorboards

This is one of those household jobs which can be done just as effectively by yourself as it can be by a professional. Cost is often the main factor that drives people to take on the tasks themselves, but have you considered the hidden cost of potential pitfalls, especially when it comes to applying finishes. There are cases where people didn’t choose the appropriate finishes and left marks.  The cost of having to repeat the whole process is more than the cost of getting the job right on the first go.

Pros of DIY

  • Cheaper
  • Learning a new skill
  • An intriguing challenge

Cons of DIY

  • Labour intensive
  • Risks of ruining the floor
  • Lack of professional equipment

How much does timber floor polishing cost?

A flooring expert generally charges around $30 to $50 per square meter for timber floor polishing. The cost depends on floor conditions and what the work involves. The cost may also go higher or lower according to your choice of finishing material.

If you choose to do it yourself here is a breakdown of the costs you will likely incur. Keep in mind these can change based on the square meterage of the job you’re completing.

  • Drum Sander Hire (24hrs): $67
  • Dust Masks: $13
  • Ear Muffs: $18
  • Hammer: $30
  • Nail Punch: $8
  • Safety Glasses: $13
  • Floor Polish: $150 (depending on the size of the space you need to polish and how many coats you require)
  • Total: $299 (approx)

If you decide to go for a professional instead of DIY this time, you can find a flooring expert by posting a job on Oneflare.

Categories
Walls & flooring

Plaster vs render: What’s the difference?

Knowing the difference between plaster vs. render is essential for anyone tackling a construction or renovation project. Failing to grasp this distinction can lead to suboptimal outcomes, wasted time, and unnecessary expenses. This article aims to clarify render vs. plaster techniques, their applications, and when to use each one, helping you make informed decisions for your next project.

What is plastering and when should you get plastering help?

plaster
Plastering is used for interior walls. Source: Shutterstock

Plastering is the process of applying a smooth, durable finish to interior walls and ceilings. It involves spreading a mixture of lime, cement, sand, and water onto surfaces to create a seamless, flat finish. Plaster is commonly used for:

  • Smoothing rough interior walls
  • Repairing damaged drywall
  • Creating decorative finishes
  • Improving sound insulation

Common types of plaster include gypsum, lime, and cement plaster. Each type has specific properties suited to different applications and environmental conditions.

Plastering typically costs $20 to $90 per square metre, depending on the type of plastering work. More complex or ornamental plastering can cost up to $85 or more. Many plasterers also offer daily rates at around $240 or higher or hourly rates at $50 or more. Plastering costs can vary based on factors like job complexity, location, and the plasterer’s experience, so it’s advisable to obtain multiple quotes for accurate pricing.

What is rendering and when should you get rendering help?

render
Rendering is used for external walls. Source: Shutterstock

Rendering is the application of a cement-based rendering mixture to external walls to create a protective and decorative finish. It provides a durable, weather-resistant surface that can enhance a building’s appearance and improve its structural integrity. Render is typically used for:

  • Weatherproofing exterior walls
  • Improving thermal insulation
  • Enhancing curb appeal
  • Protecting brickwork or masonry

There are various types of render, including traditional cement render, lime, and modern acrylic or polymer-modified renders. Each type offers different benefits in terms of durability, flexibility, and aesthetic options.

Since rendering is more expensive than plastering, it’s recommended that you use the services of a qualified plasterer to complete rendering work for your home. It takes a skilled hand to achieve professional results.

Plaster vs. render: Which one applies to your needs?

If you’re wondering whether it’s better to use plaster vs. cement render for filling walls, here’s a breakdown of each.

a handyman using a trowel to plaster a wall
Call your local handyman to get your interior or exterior walls fixed. | Source: iStock

Material mixture and composition

Plaster typically consists of gypsum, lime, or cement mixed with water. This composition results in a softer, more porous material suitable for interior use. It contains less cement than render since it merely coats the interior walls and ceilings of buildings to prep them for painting or wallpapering.

Render, on the other hand, is made from cement, lime, sand, and water, creating a harder, more weather-resistant mixture ideal for exterior applications. Depending on the render, some key ingredients give it its definition; for example, lime gypsum gives the coating a creamy appearance, while finer sand can create a smooth finish.

Plaster composition allows for a smoother finish and better sound insulation, while the render’s robust mixture provides superior weather protection and durability against the elements. The material choice affects not only the appearance but also the lifespan and maintenance requirements of the entire surface.

Application techniques

Plastering typically involves three layers: a base coat, a second coat, and a finish coat. Each layer is applied with trowels and allowed to dry before the next is added. The process requires skill to achieve a perfectly smooth surface.

Plaster must be set and completely dry before painting the walls. A freshly plastered wall can take at least a week and up to a month to dry. You can tell when the plaster is completely dry when there are no dark patches visible, and the coating is light and even.

On the other hand, rendering usually involves applying one or two coats to exterior walls using a trowel or spray equipment. A workman may then finish it with different tools depending on the homeowner’s desired appearance—either a smooth, flat finish or with a texture or pattern. Also, some modern renders can be applied in a single coat, saving time and man-hours.

Durability and maintenance

a blue wall with two holes in the sheetrock from a wall being punched by hand
Get your damaged walls repaired by a skilled handyman. | Source: iStock

Plaster, being an interior finish, is less at risk of harsh conditions, but it can still be prone to cracking due to building movement or moisture issues. Regular painting and prompt repair of any cracks or chips can extend its lifespan.

Meanwhile, the render is exposed to the elements. While it’s certainly more durable, it requires proper maintenance to prevent issues like cracking or water ingress. Regular cleaning, repainting every 5 to 10 years, and addressing any cracks promptly can ensure that the render remains effective and attractive for decades.

Important note: Before undertaking any plastering or rendering work on older buildings (particularly those built from the 1930s to the 1970s), have the surfaces checked for asbestos. Consult a licensed asbestos professional if you suspect its presence.

Function and uses

Plaster is primarily used for internal walls and ceilings, providing a smooth, even surface that’s ideal for painting or decorative finishes. It’s excellent for creating intricate mouldings and ornamental features.

Render is used to coat external walls, both for protection and decoration. It shields the underlying structure from weather damage, improves thermal insulation, and can significantly enhance a building’s superficial appeal. Render is particularly useful for covering imperfections in brickwork or concrete surfaces or mending exterior walls’ cosmetic defects.

Sustainability and environmental impact

Both plaster and render have environmental implications. Traditional plaster and render mixes can generate significant waste and have a high carbon footprint due to cement production. However, the industry is moving towards more sustainable practices.

Eco-friendly alternatives like clay plasters and lime renders are gaining popularity. These materials have lower embodied energy, are often locally sourced, and can be recycled. Some innovative products incorporate recycled materials or industrial by-products, reducing waste and environmental impact.

Proper application techniques can minimise waste, and some companies now offer recycling services for leftover materials. Additionally, well-maintained plaster and render can contribute to a building’s energy efficiency, potentially offsetting its initial environmental cost over time.

Beyond the surface: rendering vs. plastering

Understanding the difference between render and plaster is crucial for any home improvement or building project. Both techniques serve unique purposes, with plaster enhancing interiors and render protecting exteriors. 

For the best results, consult a qualified plasterer or renderer who can assess your specific needs and provide expert advice tailored to your project. With the right application, you’ll achieve a stunning and durable finish that stands the test of time.

Ready to give your walls a refresh? Post a job on Oneflare and connect with top-rated plasterers or renderers near you.


FAQs on plastering vs rendering

Do plasterers do rendering?

Not all plasterers do rendering. Plastering and rendering are distinct trades, though some professionals are skilled in both. Plasterers primarily focus on interior work, applying plaster to walls and ceilings. Renderers specialise in exterior finishes, applying cement-based mixtures to outside walls.

If you need rendering done, it’s best to look for a skilled professional in that specific field. Always check their experience and qualifications for the specific job you need.

Is solid plastering the same as rendering?

Solid or hard plaster vs. render are similar techniques, but they’re not the same.

Solid plastering refers to the application of plaster directly onto brick, concrete, or stone surfaces, usually for interior walls. Rendering, on the other hand, is specifically the application of a cement-based mixture to exterior walls. Both techniques create a smooth surface, but rendering is designed to withstand outdoor elements and often has a coarser texture than solid plastering.

Can you plaster over a rendered wall?

It’s generally not recommended to plaster directly over a rendered wall. Render is designed for exterior use and has properties different from interior plaster.

If you’re looking to smooth out a rendered interior wall, it’s better to apply a skim coat of plaster rather than a full plastering job. For exterior walls, if you want to change from render to plaster, you’d need to remove the render first.

Always consult a professional before attempting to plaster over render, as improper application can lead to adhesion problems and a poor finish.