As the world seems to be getting noisier and noisier, most of us are becoming even more determined to keep as much noise as possible out of our living spaces. With increased traffic outside, as well as high-tech stereos and entertainment centres in our homes – not to mention the smaller yards separating houses, it seems as if were more vulnerable than ever to the noises of our neighbours as well as the sounds produced by the rest of the outside world.
Soundproofing with plasterboard
There are three types of plasterboard that are commonly used for soundproofing:
Barrierboard: This Australian-made plasterboard comes from a composite material that reduces outside noise levels by as much as 75 percent. Barrierboard is comprised of two sheets, with a layer of insulation in between. This rigid, 32mm board wont sag or bend, and can be applied directly onto standard walls without having to make construction changes to areas such as doorways.
BoralSoundSTOP: Especially engineered for areas with acoustic walls and ceilings installations. Its used in conjunction with the Quiet Living, CinemaZone and PartiWALL systems produced by Boral. One advantage of the Quiet Living system is that is uses the same width as a standard interior wall, so its compatible with standard window frames, door jambs and other features. Likewise, Borals CinemaZone system is specially designed to protect your home theatre room from outside noises while enhancing and controlling the noise levels from the theatre speakers. Note: Boral SoundSTOP is so effective that loud outside voices can only be heard as a quiet murmur indoors. If more sound blocking is needed, you can add another layer to the wall.
GyprockSoundchek: This 10mm plasterboard is made with a thick, sound-reflective gypsum core thats layered with heavy-strength liner boards. It comes in two levels: STC 45, which can make conversations inaudible, and STC 50, which reduces sounds produced by music.
Enhancing your soundproofing
To enhance your plasterboard soundproofing, you can combine it with either wall or roof insulation to add another layer of protection. You can also apply it to solid doors that have been surrounded with protective door seals. If you have an entertainment centre or home theatre, you’ll want to also install soft carpeting and furnishings that are quiet and don’t creak. Additionally, take steps to ensure that light switches and power points aren’t placed back to back, as sound can leak through the gaps that were created for these installations.
Soundproof doors
A soundproof door is heavily insulated to block out noise and vibrations from the outside. This reduction in noise is achieved with strong acoustic seals and quality insulation. Acoustic doors are made in accordance with standards of sound resistance and should be certified after testing. They are available in a wide range of materials like laminated steel, galvanised steel and also sheet metals.
Different types
Once you have considered your soundproof requirements, you can choose doors in different sizes and types.
The main doors available include the following:
Double or single sliding doors
Swinging doors, single or double.
Smoke or fire doors.
Magnamatic or electronic automatic doors.
Lightweight or heavy doors.
Soundproof windows
Noise from the street can get in easily through single glazed windows. The glass is thin, but there are also small holes and gaps around the window frame and joints that allow sound to transmit into your home. The sound can also travel through vibration as the noise hits the glass and vibrates through your house. Ensuring that your windows are well-sealed is one step to take, but getting them double glazed provides extra soundproofing.
Double glazed windows
Double glazed windows are completely sealed and do not allow the air to vibrate sound into your home. There are two layers of glass with a small gap between them, which helps to kill the vibration. Additionally, the extra pane of glass means that any outside noise has two panes to travel through before it can break into the peacefulness of your home. Double glazed windows can prevent the transmission of noise by up to 70 percent. New home builds will likely have double glazed windows, however older homes will need to retrofit these.
Contact local glaziers
Other soundproofing tips
In addition to plasterboard, soundproof doors and windows, here’s some other tips to minimise noise where it’s needed; for example a home theatre.
Ensuring adequate insulation throughout the ceiling and walls
Plush furnishing and carpet, as well as heavy window coverings that can absorb sound
The first step in any new home construction or redesign is finding a professional designer who will help make your dreams a reality. This is not something for the amateurs; you need to go pro if you want to get the most practical, beautiful home out there for you and your family. That means you’ll need to either employ a building designer or an architect. However, this process can be tricky – and it’s not one you can afford to mess up. We’ve put together a guide here that will help you choose which type of designer is best and how to find the right one.
Qualifications
Architects and building designers are both qualified to design buildings, but there are some legal differences between the two. An architect is required to have the following:
Successful completion of required university courses specific to the architectural field
Acceptance and up-to-date membership (with all current fees paid) in the state board of architecture
Necessary insurance licenses and registration/certification documents
Building designers aren’t required to have any of these things, but they do need to be licensed from an appropriate state building board, such as a Building Services Authority, and they have to be fully insured with the requisite policies. These legal requirements are nationwide and were implemented for the protection of consumers.
Although it’s not required, a large number of building designers also join distinguished professional organizations, such as the Building Designers Association or the Royal Australian Institute of Architects. In order to join, designers have to prove their competency, and membership is an added cachet that can help inspire consumer confidence.
Who is more competent?
Builders and architects should be judged by their individual competencies and merits. As with architects, many building designers have established a stellar reputation through years of accomplishment and enthusiastic client referrals. Likewise, some building designers or architects may be more comfortable designing commercial buildings rather than residential homes. Otherwise, you should consider the two designations as being completely equal and go from there.
Finding the right building designer or architect
When contacting a building professional, you’ll first want to get their references and credentials. Your builder should be fully insured and licensed to work in the state where your building site is. Look for membership in reputable professional organizations; these are always a plus. Check referrals and ask for photos of similar jobs. If the building designer or architect is new in the profession, ask for copies of preliminary studies and design drawings.
After establishing credentials, discuss your design specifications to determine if this particular professional can accomplish the results you’re looking for.
Contact local building designers
The price of a designer
Odds are that you’ll never find two building designers with the same type of fee structures – they’re usually very dissimilar. They might offer a fixed or an hourly fee, first off, and the cost will be dependent on the varying levels of service they offer. Basic services might only include a consultation, site visit and design and would only include the most bare-bones drawings. More advanced services generally include consultant use and the design of the landscape and interior, along with the electrical layout. Eventually, you’ll likely be charged a percentage of the total price of the project. A rough estimate might come out to 7.5% of the total for full service or around 5% of the total for basic service. Don’t forget to get an upfront look at the fees before you sign any contract.
Whether you’re a seasoned DIY veteran or just starting out, understanding the potential pitfalls involved with a renovation project is a good way to ensure that you don’t end up with your home in a state of disaster. We’ve compiled a list of the five most common DIY mistakes and a guide on how to avoid them.
Diving in the deep end
The cause of many DIY disasters is from being a little too enthusiastic about starting a project before it’s properly planned out. With numerous DIY shows making it look simple, it’s easy to underestimate the actual size of a job and start something that is above your skill level.
How to avoid: Take a step back from the project and assess if you are up to the challenge. Are you willing to take the time and effort to learn new skills if you need to? Do you have enough of a buffer in your finances if something goes wrong? Start small, if you can, and always have a plan to find help.
How to solve: If you do find yourself in over your head the best thing to do is to take a step back and evaluate. If things have progressed to a point where you have no choice but to continue consider hiring a professional.
Incorrectly budgeting
This mistake is closely linked to the first. Improperly budgeting can be the undoing of a lot more than just your project. Most building projects have a lot of hidden or incidental costs that may come as a nasty surprise if you start without creating a watertight budget. It’s worthwhile doing lots of research
How to avoid: Before you begin, go over the whole project on paper first. Note down every material you will need, the associated costs, whether or not you have the right tools, etc. Then once you have that final figure add 10% as a buffer in case of any accidents.
How to solve: If you’re stuck in a position where you are running out of money to continue the project, stop working on it. You can end up spending good money after bad if you don’t re assess. That assessment should be about prioritising what need fixing so that you can continue living in your home. That way you will have time to rebuild your funds and finish the project when you are better prepared to do so.
Making mistakes with the measurements
The difference of a few centimetres can cost a lot of time and money. Ordering materials in the wrong size or worse, cutting something to the wrong length can bring a project to a standstill.
How to avoid: Measure twice and cut once. Always make sure that you take down the measurements as accurately as possible. This means not only making sure that your measuring equipment is exact but also that you record the measurement correctly. Don’t be worried if you spend a bit of time ensuring that your measurements are correct. It will save you a lot of time and problems in the long run.
How to solve: If you have cut to the wrong measurements, unfortunately, you have very little option than to either reair the section that has been damaged or buy more materials. However, always keep the remaining materials. They may end up being useful later on in the project or give you extra coverage in a future project should the same issue arise.
Using the wrong tools
Certain materials need to be handled using specific tools. Trying to complete a job using the wrong tools is a dangerous endeavour. You can end up using more force than necessary and end up damaging your home or yourself.
How to avoid: Always use the right tool for the job. If you don’t have the tools at hand, or cannot afford to buy them, see whether there are rental options available to you or whether your friends or family can lend you one.
It’s also important to remember that even if you have the right tool, make sure it is in good working order before you use it. A broken or worn tool can be just as dangerous as the wrong tool.
Take safety seriously
DIY can feel like a hobby. Working on the project whenever you have the time to chip away at a smaller task. However, not having proper ventilation in a room while painting, operation power tools, or demolishing a room can all lead to potentially life-threatening injuries.
How to avoid: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment. Gloves, ear protection, safety glasses, respirators even a dust mask can make all the difference in saving yourself from serious damage. If you’re ever in doubt or don’t have the right tools and equipment to complete a job safely, consult a professional.
Contact local builders
Common kitchen renovation mistakes to avoid
Overspending
One of the biggest concerns is staying within your budget. You need to be realistic, and you need to make sure you are not spending money that you simply don’t have on a renovation. A good guide to use when doing a renovation is not to spend more than seven percent of the cost of the home to do the renovation. Be flexible with your options, and do not go overboard on a costly project.
Accuracy
You need to make sure you measure properly when renovating a kitchen. If you have the wrong dimensions, it can cause a lot of havoc. There are cabinets, appliances, benchtops, and flooring that are all hinging on your ability to know how much space you have and how to put everything together.
Beware of the current trends
Do not fall head over heels for what is hot right now. There is a reason they are called trends; they will not last very long. You do not want to have to renovate every couple of years because you are bored with the design or because what you did is now considered hideous. If you want to use the latest idea, make sure it is something that can be changed out easily to stay current.
Get the right pros
Make sure you hire professionals you know you can trust. See what else they have done, and make sure they are able to do all of the work you want within the budget you have. You want them to stay on time and do the job right.
Remember the small details
Yes, we all want the kitchen to look great, but where are you going to plug everything in? Make sure you have power points laid out, as well as the proper lighting and proper appliance location. See how well everything will fit in the newly renovated room.
Proper storage
No matter how nice the kitchen looks when you walk in, it won’t matter if you do not have someplace to put everything. Proper and adequate storage will make you feel better about the area, and it will help you keep your renovated room clean and organised.
Think about the finished product from the start
The kitchen is a place where everyone spends time. You need to make sure that it will look good and function well for you as well. It’s about making it look more modern and eye-catching, while still being comfortable to cook in.
Renovations are great for a change of scenery, update old facilities and most importantly, provide an increase in the value of your home. That value, however, can be severely diminished if you end up spending more than your finances can handle.
With that in mind we’ve put together a guide on how to spend wisely on your next home renovation without blowing the budget.
1. Estimating value
As a rule, you should not spend any more on a single room than the value of the room as a percentage of your overall house value. To do this, you will of course, first need to get an estimate of your home’s value.
For instance, if your home’s overall value is $800,000, (the median Australian house price) and you want to renovate your kitchen, which accounts for between 10-15% of your property’s value, then you should aim to spend under $120,000 – or 15% – on your renovation.
It’s also worth keeping in mind that some rooms scale to add more value than others. For instance, while the kitchen is often cited as the make or break room, it offers amongst the lowest return on investment, whereas a moderate bathroom makeover can almost double the money spent.
2. Look at loan options
If you’re borrowing money for your project, make sure you look at what deals are available and what types of loan will work for you. It might seem like common sense, but taking the time now to research your options and choosing one works for you will certainly save you money down the line.
If you’re unsure, speak to a professional who can provide you with the financial advice you need to make an informed decision.
3. Research quotes from contractors
Talking to a professional builder/contractor is the fastest and often the most accurate way to assess the total cost of a project. Start a conversation with a few trusted providers, and use their experience and understanding of the finer aspects of a renovation to accurately assess the cost of a project.
4. Follow the plan
While you’re in the middle of a renovation, it can be easy to get caught up in the excitement of a project and start thinking about other ways you can add value to your home. Always remember to take a step back and see how these changes would affect your budget and timeline. Reviewing the plan is the best way to avoid blowing your budget as even small additions to a project can carry unexpected costs.
5. Create a buffer
There are always unexpected costs lurking around the corner of any construction project, so provide yourself with a buffer of extra cash to take care of these items. It only needs to be 10% of the total cost of the renovation, however, that 10% can make all the difference in the event of accidents or other setbacks outside of your control. Rather than having to dip into your savings or borrow extra money if the builders need more time or if a window or fixture gets broken and needs replacing, using your emergency fund can save you money in the long run.
6. Consider all the costs
Keep in mind, when you get an estimate from your builder, it will typically cover only the base price of construction and materials without factoring in the price of interior finishing. In order to finish your home, you’ll have to factor in additional costs for interior fixtures such as these:
Flooring
Window treatments
Lighting and fixtures
Landscaping services
Driveways and pathways
Utility connections for your electricity and for appliances such as phones, computers and television
Water, sewerage and garbage disposal costs
Ground excavation for the build
Cabinetry and appliances for kitchen and bathroom
Energy-efficient additions such as added insulation, solar panels, solar-heated water systems and tanks to collect rainwater
To help control your budget, talk to your builder and find out how many of these interior fixtures are included in the estimate. If they aren’t, ask if your builder can recommend professionals who can do these jobs for you at a reasonable price.
Contact local home renovation experts
7. Keep your expectations realistic
It’s crucial to be realistic about the things you can and can’t have in your new home. For example, if you’re on a strict budget, you probably won’t be able to splurge on granite benchtops in your kitchen or bathroom. With all the luxury accessories, fixtures and materials available, it’s easy to get carried away and fall in love with everything you see, but you can quickly end up ruining your entire construction project if you don’t keep the spending in check. From the very start, you need to look at how much you’re paying for the site, and add on the base construction price. Whatever is left in your budget can be used for interior finishing, but be sure and set a budget by parceling out an appropriate amount for each area. Don’t start shopping for these goodies until you’ve set strict monetary limits on each section of your list.
The good news is that, with auctions, online auction sites and clearance sales, you can still get luxury items well within your budget. Just use your bargaining skills to locate great deals, and keep your eye open for discontinued stock.
It’s no doubt that at some point, you’ll need to hire a trades or services professional. The technicalities of some trades and services are easier to understand than others, and some use jargon and terms that you may not have heard of before. Whether it’s an emergency job or a planned project, it never hurts to be a little more informed.
Rather than sitting there dazed and confused by the amount of words you don’t know how to comprehend, we’ve put together a handy dictionary of terms to help you learn the lingo.
A
Absorption Field – A leeching or seeping field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) – An ABS is in the form of a black plastic pipe that is used in plumbing for drains and vents.
Adaptor (Plumbing) – A fitting that connects two pipes of different sizes.
Adjustable Hot Limit Stop – This stop restricts the output of hot water in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding, which is done by limiting the swing to the hot side.
Aerator – An insert that is screwed onto a faucet outlet which mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.
Aggregate – Type of crushed rock used as a top layer in some flat-roof applications.
Air Admittance Valve – A device used in plumbing that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter inside the pipe and equalise the pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.
Air Chamber – A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a valve or faucet.
Air Gap – The Air Gap’s purpose is to prevent backflow contamination in drainage systems.
Airbrick – A perforated brick which is used for ventilation, especially for under-floor spaces. They are usually used in older houses to provide ventilation to pantry’s.
Angle Iron – Structural steel bent at a 90-degree angle which is used to fasten or reinforce framing joints.
Arborist – A tree surgeon.
As-built plans – As-built plans show how the space was constructed, including any changes that have been made from the original house plans.
Asbestos– A highly heat-resistant fibrous silicate mineral that can be woven into fabrics, and can is usually used in brake linings and fire-resistant and insulating materials.
Auger (or Closet Auger) – An Auger is a bendable rod with a curved end and is used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.
B
Back Flow – Back Flow occurs when water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.
Back Flow Preventor – The device used to prevent Back Flow (see above), especially into a potable water supply. It is usually required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pull-out faucet spouts and kitchen sprayers.
Back Pressure – Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.
Backfill – The soil or gravel used to fill in against a wall or foundation.
Backup – Occurs when there is an overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.
Baffle – An object placed in an appliance to change the direction or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.
Balancing Valve – This is a water heater valve that controls the level of water flow and balances the heat distribution to a number of locations.
Ball Check Valve – A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop a flow in one direction.
Ball Joint – A Ball Joint is a spherical assembly in shower heads that allows it to rotate and pivot.
Ballast – Generally mixed on site with cement to form concrete for the smaller jobs around a building site. It is made up of pebbles and either frit sand or sharp sand.
Ballcock – A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling the tank. Connected to a float via a metal arm, the toilet refills the tank until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve after flushing.
Bannister – This is the railing of a staircase, made up of the hand rail, spindles and base rail. Blow Torch – Used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurised fuel and air to generate the flame for the torch.
Barge Board – A brick cut crossways to give a reduced length. It can be cut in quarters, half or three quarter bats.
Bidet – A Bidet has a similar appearance to a toilet bowl. It is a plumbing fixture used for personal hygiene, which is floor mounted and usually next to the toilet. It consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.
Bleed – The process of draining a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.
Blackwater – Waste water coming from a toilet.
Blowbag – A drain-cleaning device that consists of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. This device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water flows in, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. It is also known as a blowfish.
Blowdown – Occurs when partial venting or draining under pressure, on the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. The pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.
Boiler – A sealed tank where water is transformed into steam for heating or power.
Boiler Feed – A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.
Bonnet – The top portion of a compression valve assembly that holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat the other end of the assembly.
Boxing In – Generally refers to the construction of a timber frame carcass around heating pipes, internal soil stacks etc.
Brackish Water – Contains bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.
Branch Drain – A fixture used in plumbing that leads to the main drain line.
Brass – A slang word for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.
Brick Bonds – A pattern of bricks to ensure stability of the brickwork – with the most common bond called a stretcher bond.
Brickie – Slang or colloquial language for a bricklayer.
Burst Pressure – Describes the internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.
Bushing – A fitting that is threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.
Buttress – The process of thickening a wall to form a vertical projection to strengthen the wall.
C
Caulking – Describes the task of sealing joints and openings by applying a flexible compound or sealant – commonly known as decorator’s filler.
Cavity Wall – Usually in construction for external walls, Cavity Walls comprises of an inner and outer wall – also known as leafs – with a space between, being the cavity, filled with insulation.
Change Order – A written document which officially modifies the plans and specifications of the construction contract.
Chippie – A Chippie is a slang or colloquial term for a carpenter.
Circuit – In electrical terms, an electric circuit is a path in which electrons from a voltage or current source flow.
Cladding – A covering or coating on a structure or material.
Cleanout Plug – A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access to clear an obstruction that may exist.
Closet Bend – A curved waste pipe that fits under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.
Closet Flange – A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend (see above). It is also known as a Floor Flange.
Collar – A galvanised sheet metal restricting device that is used in conjunction with a plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.
Collar Tie – A horizontal board attached perpendicular to rafter.
Compression Fitting – A type of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube. It is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering.
Contingency – Refers to the backup budget for unseen/unpredictable additional costs during construction.
Conveyance – The legal process of transferring property from one owner to another.
Corbelling – Corbelling is the projection of masonry formed by building successive courses outwards by a small amount to form small steps with each additional course.
Coupling – This is a short fitting used to join two separate pipes.
Courier – A company or employee of a company that transports packages and documents.
Coving – Usually made of plaster, Coving is the moulding around a room at the junction of a wall and ceiling.
Cowl – A short fitting used to join two different pipes.
CPVC – CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, which is a black plastic pipe that can withstand high temperatures. They are mostly used in water supply systems.
Curtain Drain – Trenches filled with gravel covering perforated pipe, acting as a gutter system to remove unwanted water away from a house. The trench is lined with filter fabric to ensure that the perforated pipe remains free of clogs from dirt and silt over the years.
D
Dam – A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the amount of water in the toilet bowl.
De-humidistat – A control mechanism needed to operate a mechanical ventilation system that is based on the relative humidity in the home.
Decking – The timber platform or terrace attached to a house or other building.
Diaphragm – A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the body to regulate the water flow from supply lines. Diaphragms eliminate the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.
Diffuser – A device used to reduce velocity and increase the static pressure of a fluid passing through a particular system.
Dip Tube – A tube inside a water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.
Diverter – A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet straight to the shower head.
Dope – Dope is a lubricant that is used by plumbers on pipe threads.
Doublehung – The window frame on doublehung windows are operable – meaning they can move up and down. The sashes on a doublehung windows also tilt in for easy cleaning.
Downspout – A Downspout is a pipe used for draining water from roof gutters. It is also known as a leader.
Drain-Waste-Vent System – A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.
Drip Edge – A non-staining, non-corrosive material that is used along the eaves and rakes to allow water runoff to drip clear of underlying construction.
Drywall – Also known as plasterboard, gypsum board and wallboard, Drywall is the flat surface of most interior walls – to which you apply paint, wallpaper or tiles.
E
Easement – A formal contract which allows a party to use another’s property for a specific job or purpose.
Eaves – The part of a roof that meets the walls of a building, also known as the edges of the roof that hangs over the face of a wall.
Eaves Flashing – The additional layer of roofing material that is applied at the eaves to assist in preventing damage from water backup.
Edging strips – Describes boards that are nailed along eaves and rakes in order to provide secure edges for reroofing.
Efflorescence – Unsightly powdery white salts brought to surface of brickwork.
Effluent – Septic system liquid waste.
Egress – Describes the exit of the home. For example, an egress window is required in every bedroom and basement.
Elbow – A 90 or 45 degree curved fitting, used to change the direction of a pipe run. It is also known as an “ell”.
Escutcheon – A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in a fixture or wall.
Estimate – Describes the anticipated cost of a job, which can include the cost of: materials, labour, construction, remodeling or repair.
Excavate – The process of making a hole or channel by digging.
Exposure – Describes the portion of a roof that is exposed to the weather after it is installed.
F
Faucet – A device for controlling the flow of liquid from a pipe by opening or closing an orifice.
Fitting – Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. They come in many shapes, sizes and connection styles.
Fixture – Describes anything that accepts or discharges wastewater or water.
Flange – The edge or rim at the end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.
Flapper – Describes a rubber flap with a ball-like shape at the bottom of a toilet. It lifts to allow flushing and seals the tank off for refilling. It also allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.
Flashing – A metal sheet which is usually made of lead. It is used to deflect water at a junction between roofs and walls, or around chimney stacks etc.
Flex Coupling – A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the ends of pipes. It is mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.
Float Ball – A floating device connected to the ballcock inside a toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.
Flow Control Valve – A device designed to reduce the amount of water flow into a plumbing fixture. It is often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.
Flow Rate – The measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).
Flux – A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. It is applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.
Frog – Concave ‘V’ shaped indent on the top of a brick.
G
Galvanising – The process of applying a zinc coating to a finished product to protect it from corrosion. The coating can be applied by
Gasket – A flat device usually made of fibre or rubber, and used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.
Gate – A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe or tunnel.
Gate Diverter – The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.
Gauge – Describes the thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to grades of quality with certain types of lavatories and sinks.
Glazing bar – A thin bar shapes to receive panes of glass within the main frame of a window.
GPF – GPF stands for Gallons Per Flush. It measures the rate of waterflow of toilets and flush valves. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF.
Gravity Operated Toilet – A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.
Gray Water – Waste water from fixtures other than toilets.
Grease Trap – A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. It is usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.
Gyprock – A building material used for making the surfaces of interior walls, consisting of sheets of compacted plaster with a covering of plasterboard.
H
H Clip – A small metal clip formed in the shape of an “H” that fits at the joints of two plywood sheets. It is normally used on roof sheeting.
Hanger – A device used to support pipes.
Hard Water – Describes natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of the presence of calcium, minerals of dissolved solids in a solution – measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.
Hardware – Refers to tools, machinery and other durable equipment.
Hazard Insurance – Insurance that protects against damage caused by windstorms, fire or other common hazards.
Heatpump – This device transfers heat from a cooler area to a hotter area by using mechanical energy. For example, in a refrigerator.
Heating Load – The amount of heating that is required to keep a building at a specific temperature during the winter.
Hearth – Describes the area directly in front of a fireplace that is fireproof. It is usually made out of brick, tile or stone.
Highlights – A light spot, area or streak on a surface.
Hip Roof – A type of roof that is formed by sloping roof planes on all sides.
Hip Shingles – Types of shingles used to cover the inclined external angle that is formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Hose Bibb – An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.
I
I Beam – A type of steel beam with a cross section in the shape of the letter “I”. Typically used for long spans such as a double garage door.
ID – Stands for Inside Diameter. It measures the inside width of a pipe.
Impeller – A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. It spins at a high speed, which draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.
Incandescent Lamp – A type of lamp that employs an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat.
Insulating Glass – A window or door that insulates by having a sealed air space between two panes. It is also known as Double Glass.
Insulation – To insulate is to protect something by interposing material that prevents the loss of heat or intrusion of sound.
Interceptor – A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.
Interior Finish – The material used to cover interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.
Interlocking Shingles – A type of roofing shingle, which is shaped and installed so that adjacent shingles lock each shingle into place.
Irrigation – Describes a lawn sprinkler system.
J
Jack Stud – A stud that has been cut down to be placed above and/or below an opening. It provides support to the lintel trimmer and sill trimmer.
Jamb – Describes a side pot or surface of a doorway, window or fireplace.
Joinery – The wooden components of a building, such as the stairs, doors and door and window frames – viewed collectively.
Joint Compound – A term used in both plumbing and carpentry. In plumbing, it is a material applied to threaded connections to help prevent leaks. In carpentry, Joint Compound is a wet gypsum material that is applied to sheetrock joints.
Joist – A length of timber or steel supporting part of a structure of a building, typically arranged in parallel to support a floor or ceiling.
Jumpers – A type of water pipe installed in a water meter pit, or electrical wire that is installed in the electric house panel meter socket before the meter is installed.
K
Keeper – The metal latch plate on a door frame where a doorknob plunger latches.
Keyless – A light fixture made of plastic or porcelain that operates by a pull string. They are generally found in attics, basements or crawl spaces.
Kilowatt (kw) – The metric for 1000 watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit that is used in measuring electrical consumption.
kPA – A metric unit for pressure, where 100 kPA = one atmosphere.
L
L Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a blue strip. Type ‘L’ copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type ‘M’.
Laminating – The process of bonding two or more layers of materials.
Lattice – A framework of criss-crossed wood or metal or metal strips that form patterned spaces.
Leach Lines – Leach Lines are pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field; a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.
Lintel – A horizontal structural device that supports the load over an opening such as a window or a door.
Load-Bearing Walls – Non-load-bearing walls are walls that simply divide rooms. They are able to be knocked down or relocated.
Low Consumption Toilet – A class of toilets designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. They are also known as “water-saving” toilets.
Louver – A vented opening that leads into the home, that has a series of horizontal slats.
Lumens – Lumens is a unit of measure for total light output, which is the amount of light that falls on one square foot.
M
M Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a red stripe.
Main – The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. It is also referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.
Making Good – A general term referring to the repair of plaster and decor after. For example, forming a new doorway into an existing wall.
Manifold – Describes a fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.
Mapp Gas – A colourless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.
MCL – Stands for Maximum Contaminant Level, and describes the maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.
Metal Fatigue – A type of breakage of metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.
Mezzanine Floor – Means an extra floor, possibly inserted between the floor and ceiling of a very tall room.
Mitre Joint – An angled joint that is similar to that in a picture frame.
Mullion – An upright post between window frames.
N
Nail Inspection – A type of inspection that is made by a municipal building inspector after drywall material is hung with nails and screws.
Natural Finish – A type of finish that is transparent, which does not seriously alter the original colour or grain of the natural wood.
Nesting – The method of reroofing with new asphalt shingles over old ones in which the top edge of the new shingles is butted against the bottom edge of the existing tab.
Newel – Vertical post at the top and bottom of a staircase to support the handrail.
Nipple – A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.
No-Hub Connector – A connector for a no-hub iron pipe that consists of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps.
Nogging – A short piece of timber used to stiffen timber partition walls horizontally between the vertical studs.
Non-ferrous – A term used when something does not contain iron.
Non-fibered Aluminium Roof Coating – A thin but efficient reflective barrier that is designed to reflect the sun’s harmful rays and to prolong the surface life on roofs.
Non-fibered Roof Coating – A coating that gives added protection to low-sloped roofs, as well as metal and masonry surfaces.
Nosing or Bull Nose – The rounded edge of a stair tread projecting beyond the riser or the finished edge of a window board.
O
O-Ring – A rubber washer that is rounded instead. O-Rings are used in valve systems to create a watertight seal.
Oakum – Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with an oil or other waterproofing agent. It is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.
OD – OD stands for Outside Diameter. It measures the outside width of a pipe.
Outrigger – Describes the extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. It is usually characterised by a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.
Overhang – An outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof, which is the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outdoor wall.
Overflow Hood – The decorative hood concealing the overflow on a bath drain.
Overflow Tube – Describes the vertical tube that exists inside a toilet tank that directs water in the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow.
P
Panel Beater – A person whose job is to beat the bodywork of motor vehicles.
Parapet – The low wall at the edge of a roof.
Partition – A structure dividing a space – especially a light interior wall.
Party Wall – A wall separating two buildings owned by different people.
Patio – An outdoor area, usually paved, adjoining a house and used as an area for lounging or dining.
PB – Stands for Polybutylene. It is a bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.
PE – Stands for Polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line.
Pebble Dash – An external wall which is rendered, then finished with stones or pebbles applied to the render.
Pergola – An outdoor structure designed to shade the area.
Persuader – Slang name or nickname for a hammer.
PEX – Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE (see above). In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.
Pilaster – Projecting part of a square column which is attached to a wall.
Plain Tile – A rectangular-shaped flat roofing tile.
Plaster – A gypsum or lime-based mixture added with water that is applied to walls or ceilings to create a smooth hard finish when dry.
Plasterboard – Prefabricated sheets of plaster between two layers of paper for applying to walls and ceilings.
Plinth – Projecting base to external walls. It is also used to describe the board around the bottom of kitchen units.
Q
Quarry Tile – An unglazed floor tile, typically of a reddish-brown colour.
Quarter Round – A term that is typically used in the flooring industry, which is a convex moulding that contains a cross section in the form of a quarter circle.
Queen Closer – A brick cut in half lengthways which is also referred to as a closer.
Quick-setting cement – An asphalt-based cement which is used to adhere tabs of strip shingles to the course.
Quote/Quotation – The price provided by a service provider to complete the job specified.
R
Racking Back – This is the practice of building the ends of brick walls to a height of several courses, which essentially provides a level string line for filling in the courses between both ends.
Rafter – A structural timber rising from eaves to ridge to support pitched roof coverings.
Raking or Raking Out – This describes the task of removing old mortar from in between brickwork to allow for new mortar to be applied.
Rebar – This term is short for “reinforcing bar”. It refers to the ribbed steel rods that are placed in concrete foundations and retaining walls that give the structure extra support.
Reducer – A fitting that allows different sized pipes to be joined together.
Relief Valve – A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in a system.
Relieving Arch – An arch that is constructed above a lintel or beam to take the weight of the wall above.
Remodel – To remodel something is to give it a whole new purpose. For example, converting a coat closet into a powder room.
Render – The external sand-cement coating for walls.
Renovation – Renovation is making something that is old; new and improved. For example, updating the master bathroom with new tiles and fixtures.
Restoration – Returning something to its original state, such as pulling up the carpet and sanding and polishing the hardwood floor.
Return – A plumbing fitting with an 180 degree bend.
Ridge – The top of a pitched roof.
Riser – A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.
Roof Pitch – Describes the slope of a roof, usually expressed as an angle or ratio.
Roof Truss – Prefabricated structural timer framework to support roof covering.
Roughcast – Describes an external wall coating consisting of a cement-based render with either stones or pebbles mixed into the mortar.
RSJ – Stands for Rolled Steel Joist, which is an ‘I’ section steel beam.
S
Scald Guard – A type of valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology.
Scale – A thin coating of layer on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent the transfer of heat.
Sediment – The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank, which can also be known as lime.
Septic Tank – A type of tank that is used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. They are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.
Shutoff Valve – Valves that are installed under sinks and toilets and are used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. It is also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop of Supply Stop.
Siphoning – The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.
Sleeve – A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.
Soft Water – Water that has been treated so that is has low mineral content.
Soil Pipe – A pipe that carries waste from toilets.
Solder – A member of the legal profession who is qualified to deal with conveyancing, wills and other legal matters.
Sparky – Slang term for an electrician.
Sweep – A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.
T
T&P Valve – A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.
Tailpiece – The section of a pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.
Tee – Describes a plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T”, used to connect three sections of pipe.
Tee Fitting – The fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90 degree angle.
Teflon Tape – A type of white tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. This tape possesses non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.
Timber – A type of wood prepared for use in building and carpentry.
Trap – Describes the curved section of a drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom.
Trap Seal– The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.
U
Ultraviolet Degradation – The reduction in certain performance limits that is caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet light.
Undercoat – The coating applied before the finishing or top coats of a painting job. It is also known as the Prime coat.
Underlayment – A secondary layer of roofing that is water resistant. It is installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles.
Union – A fitting used in plumbing that joins pipes end-to-end so that they can be dismantled.
Upholstery – The process of fitting furniture such as sofas and chairs with springs, webbing, padding, fabric or leather.
V
Vapour Retarder/Barrier – A substance that prevents the transmission of water vapour.
Veneer – A thin layer of wood that is laminated or glued onto a surface to give the beauty of solid wood.
Verandah – A place that leads to the outdoors, which usually has the characteristics of a spacious, long, narrow structure which also has room for tables and chairs.
Valve – A device that regulates the flow of water.
Valve Seat – The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.
Vent – A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air, and also lets air into the drain system to keep the pressure balanced.
Voltage – A measure of electrical potential.
W
Water Closet – Another name for a toilet.
Water Table – The location of the underground water. It is also the vertical distance from the earth’s surface to the underground water.
Water Hammer Arrestor – A device that is installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that occurs when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing a loud banging noise in the pipes.
Wax Ring – A seal that is located between the floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.
Weatherisation – Describes the work on the exterior of a building in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling. It can involve caulking cracks, installing weather-stripping and installing storm windows and doors.
Wet Vent – Describes a pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains – it also connects two or more fixtures.
Whirlybird – A roof ventilator to cool the house.
Wye Fitting – A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45 degree angle.
Y
Yoke – Describes the location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes.
Z
Z-Bar Flashing – Prevents water from getting behind the brick and into the home.
Zone Valve – The device placed near the heater or cooler which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the property.
Zoning – A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property.
With this dictionary of trades and services terms, you are able to become more informed when making decisions on different jobs and projects to come. Knowing exactly what the service provider is talking about can save you a world of hassle, time and even money.
There are many different reasons why people decide they want to renovate or extend their current living situation. You may simply want to update the look and feel of your space or improve areas like the kitchen or bathroom for re-sell value. Renovations can aid in making a space feel larger, or mean you can use the space more effectively. If you’re wanting to physically add more space to your home, you may be considering a home extension – adding another whole storey, an extra room or even a granny flat.
Whether you opt for an extension/addition or renovation, there are multiple pros and cons for both. Your decision also depends on your budget, desired time taken to complete the project, and most importantly, what you want to get out of it – adding more space, reconfiguring, updating the look – whatever it may be, here are the pros and cons for extensions and renovations.
Extensions: the pros and cons
Pros
It can increase the value of your home.
Ground floor extensions are typically more affordable than adding another floor or excavating basement space.
Adds more space.
It can change the way the natural light flows into rooms, potentially energy saving.
An extension is cheaper than buying a new home. It saves the hassle of selling your previous home, hiring a real estate agent, paying off the mortgage and starting to pay off another mortgage on the new home.
Adding an extension upwards rather than outwards preserves your backyard and garden.
Cons
Tends to be more expensive than renovations.
Home extensions can be more expensive if your house resides on a slope.
Generally, extending your home upwards is more expensive than extending outwards.
Renovations: the pros and cons
Pros
It can increase the value of your home.
Typically cheaper than extensions and additions.
Less than half the expense will go towards materials – around one-third of the final cost will go towards materials.
Cons
Smaller renovations can end up more expensive per square metre than larger renos as many overhead costs are at a fixed cost e.g. getting a DA from your council.
Fees, levies, permits, taxes and GST accounts for around 20% of the overall cost of the reno.
If you’re planning to put your house on the market after the renovation, going overboard with expensive fittings such as high end taps, door handles and tiles can end up doing more harm than good. It’s likely that potential buyers won’t necessarily have the same preferences as you and won’t be prepared to pay extra for it.
Wrap up
Evaluating the pros and cons of your possible options may aid you in the process of choice. However, it’s likely that you already have an idea of what you’d like to alter regarding your home, and it’s more useful to be informed on what to expect based on your personal preferences and constraints – whether it’s your budget, land size or anything else. The process of building and renovating is a complicated process that can prove difficult to comprehend fully. If you’re still feeling lost, connect with a builder or renovations expert to obtain a quote for your desired project.
There are millions of things to consider when undertaking a home renovation or remodelling project. Too often left at the bottom of the list is planning how you will dispose of your renovation waste. Whether you’re replacing your kitchen cabinets or remodelling your bathroom, it is inevitable that you will produce waste.
Often, the volume of renovation rubbish left over ends up being more than expected. Without proper waste disposal plans, insulation, old plaster, glass and other renovation materials are piling up in your garage. It goes without saying that you should decide beforehand whether you’ll get a rubbish removal service or dispose of the waste yourself.
Here, we’ll explore the different options when it comes to renovation waste removal.
1. Check which items can be donated
The idiom “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure” can be taken literally when we’re talking about renovation waste. If the items or materials you’d want to get rid of are still in good condition, there might be a family that can still benefit from them.
There are a number of donation centers where you can drop off your usable items. It is worth mentioning that they accept everything from cabinets, light fixtures, and appliances to windows, doors and other materials that can still be used for other building projects.
Dn’t forget to contact donation centres prior to dropping off your usable items. Just to be sure, ask them if they accept the materials or items you’re planning to dispose of.
There’s just one thing you have to remember. When you’re planning to donate your usable renovation rubbish, you have to keep them in good condition and be careful when you’re removing them. This means that you have to decide which items you’re donating and have them carefully removed before you swing that sledgehammer.
2. Bring your renovation waste to the dump
If you want to save money in disposing of your renovation waste, you can bring the rubbish to a landfill. Once you’ve decided which items to donate and which to discard, you can use a flatbed truck or a trailer to dump the waste to your local landfill.
Before you drive to the landfill, it is best that you sort the materials. Typically, different materials go to their designated stations. For instance, most landfills have designated stations for scrap metal, copper, large appliances and old computers. It is always best to call your local landfill to get information on rules like this.
3. Give away, sell or repurpose some materials
One of the ways you can save money and time on waste disposal is by giving away or selling some of the discarded materials from your renovation. Your old oven might be useful to a friend or a relative who’s moving house for the first time, or someone on your local neighbourhood Facebook group may find your old bricks useful for paving stones for their patio.
If you’re planning to tear down an interior wall to free up some space, consider repurposing the timber. Timber is a valuable resource and you can use it to create a new hall table or cabinet. There are a lot of resources online where you can find DIY projects related to repurposing old materials. Not only will it save you money off your next project, but it’s also better for the environment – win, win!
4. Contact your local garbage collection service
You will be surprised to discover that you can ask your local garbage collection service to pick up your renovation waste. For a certain price, you can ask them to pick up your bulk rubbish. All you have to do is inform them what type of items you’re disposing of; the size of the rubbish and the pickup location. Most of the time, this type of service is inexpensive and the cost typically depends on the size of your renovation rubbish.
5. Get a skip bin hire service
Another option you can take is getting a skip bin hire service. Skip bins come in a range of sizes and they are one of the most cost-effective and convenient solutions for renovation waste removal. When you decide to take your waste to the landfill, you have to go back and forth to the site. You can save time and money by hiring a skip bin that can accommodate all the rubbish you need to dispose of.
What’s fantastic about skip bins is the fact that they are the clean and green option for removing waste. There are bin rental companies that bring the waste to a licensed sorting facility. This means that your renovation waste will be sorted and salvaged to be redistributed or reused.
Renovation rubbish disposal does not have to be a time-consuming and tedious task. Just remember to do your research and find the most efficient, affordable and convenient option that will work for you.
Sometimes it’s tricky to work out who you need to hire when you need a job done. There are builders, architects, carpenters, tradespeople, handymen, labourers, and everything in between.
So, how do you know if your project requires the services of a builder or a handyman? Who’s going to turn your diamond in the rough house into your perfect home? Is it a builder vs a handyman? In other words, do you need a builder for a major renovation or would a handyman suffice for some quick fixes?
This article clarifies the difference between a handyman and a builder, helping you make the right decision for your home improvement needs.
What does a builder do?
Building is a specialised field that requires a high level of education, experience, and training. You need a builder if you’re looking to do a large project such as building a new home, doing a major renovation, or building an extension.
A builder’s job is not only to provide a physical structure. They also need to know the legalities and regulations for doing so and ensure everything is in place, such as plans, applications, and permits, before any work is carried out.
Note that a builder isn’t necessarily an engineer or an architect; they may hire an engineering or architectural firm, however, if necessary.
Recently, sustainability and green building practices, such as energy-efficient construction, are increasingly becoming important in the Australian building industry. Builders need to upskill to new building practices in light of this movement.
What is a handyman?
There are always jobs around the home that need to be done. Some things you might feel confident in tackling yourself, for others you may need some help. For these jobs, hiring a handyman can be a great option.
Basically, a handyman is a person who is ‘handy’ or ‘skilful’ with basic repairs or minor renovations and is easily available to perform common household projects, installations, and maintenance. These are mostly jobs that require skill, but not necessarily an extensive qualification to perform. Handymen have a variety of skills and are usually available without much notice.
You might need several things done at once, like painting a room, fixing a broken tile, or putting together a piece of furniture. A handyman’s skills can cover these in a short space of time at short notice.
Builder vs handyman: Know who to call
Understanding the differences between builders and handymen is crucial when deciding who to hire for your home project. Let’s examine these professions in terms of their skill sets, project types, costs, responsibilities, and regulatory requirements.
In terms of skill set and expertise
Builder skills are typically broader and deeper, most of them related to construction and renovation. They have extensive knowledge of building codes, structural engineering principles, and project management. Builders are equipped to handle complex, large-scale projects that require coordinating multiple trades.
Handymen, on the other hand, have a diverse set of general skills covering various aspects of home maintenance and repair. While they may not have the know-how in any single area that a niche tradesperson would, their versatility allows them to efficiently handle a wide array of smaller assignments.
Builders generally charge higher rates due to their expertise and the complexity of the projects they manage. Their fees often include costs for subcontractors, materials, and project management.
Handymen typically charge hourly or flat rates for their services. They’re often more cost-effective for smaller jobs that don’t require a particular skill set or large-scale planning.
In terms of licencing and regulations
Licencing requirements vary by location, but builders must be licensed, bonded, and insured. They must pass exams and demonstrate considerable experience in the field. This is why builders are often costlier than handymen.
Builder certification may vary across states and territories. Some common builder certifications and qualifications across Australia include:
White Card (Work Safely in the Construction Industry CPCCOHS1001A)
Associate, Bachelor’s, or Master’s degrees in Building and Construction or Construction Management
The specific requirements vary by state and territory, but generally involve completing relevant vocational education and training (VET) courses, gaining practical experience, and applying for a builder’s licence through the regulatory body in each jurisdiction. For example, applying to the Western Australian Building Commission for a licence if the builder is in Western Australia.
Meanwhile, some jurisdictions require a basic handyman licence for handymen, but further qualifications and insurance requirements are usually less stringent. However, for certain types of work (e.g., electrical or plumbing), they may need specific trade licences, extensive experience, and demonstrable various skills.
Always check your local regulations to ensure any professional you hire meets the necessary legal requirements for the work they’ll be performing.
Build your dream home
When it comes to home improvements, picking between a builder and a handyman isn’t just about project size—it’s about matching skills to your needs. Builders excel at major renovations and complex constructions, while handymen are ideal for smaller repairs and maintenance.
Builders manage large-scale projects from start to finish, handling permits and ensuring code compliance. Their higher costs reflect this comprehensive service. Handymen offer affordability and versatility for those everyday household fixes and minor upgrades.
Whether you’re planning a complete home transformation or tackling a list of repairs, calling in professionals can save time, stress and potentially costly mistakes.
Next time you spot a home project, ask yourself: Does this need a builder’s comprehensive skills or a handyman’s versatile touch? Make the right call, and watch your home improvement plans come to life with the perfect pro for the job.
FAQs on builder vs handyman
What is the highest-paying handyman job?
The highest-paying handyman jobs often involve special skills or niche markets. In general, the more impressive the handyman’s qualifications and credentials, the higher they can charge. Handymen specialising in high-end home renovations or luxury property maintenance can command premium prices. Those with electrical or plumbing licences can also earn significantly more, as they can legally perform more complex tasks.
What are building and construction skills?
Building and construction skills encompass various technical abilities essential for creating and maintaining structures. These include proficiency in reading and interpreting blueprints, knowledge of various building materials and their applications, and mastery of construction techniques.
Practical skills involve carpentry, bricklaying, concreting, plastering, and roofing, but technical skills are also essential, such as understanding building codes and safety regulations. Builders also need to be proficient with construction tools and equipment, both manual and power-operated.
So you’ve decided to renovate your house. Maybe you’ve just purchased a “fixer-upper”, or perhaps you’ve been spending the last few years dreaming up your ideal home.
It can be an exciting adventure once you’ve made the decision, but also a daunting one. Whether you’re tackling one room, looking to purchase a kit home, or transforming an entire abode, you are going to have the home you’ve always wanted. There are many things you need to figure out, like your budget and timeline. But there are some big things you may not have considered yet.
Taking some time to learn about the renovation process can help you in the long run, so you don’t run into any big surprises. Armed with the knowledge of these tips can help make any renovation process run smoother and cause you less stress along the way.
1. Know what you like
If you’re going to spend the time and money to get the home you’ve always wanted, then make sure you’ll be happy with the final product. Unless you are renovating to sell your home and making it a standout real estate listing, you should choose elements and designs that bring you joy.
For instance, if you don’t actually love the look of granite countertops, then you shouldn’t spend the time and money installing them. There are many kinds of counters to choose from, as you’ll discover as you begin making choices.
Avoid feeling rushed or pressured by contractors by having a vision of your renovations before starting the build, and stick to your guns. If you only want to update your bathroom, that’s okay. You’re the boss of the project so choose what’s important to you!
If you just want a cosmetic upgrade to your home that’s also fine, not all renovations include tearing down walls and changing the floorplan of your home. Having a general idea of what you like and dislike, including a mood board, will give you a better chance of ultimately loving the results of your home renovation.
Try creating your wish list using the below questions:
What do you want to achieve from your proposed renovation?
What are the considerations of achieving your renovation?
How do you want your home to look at the end of the renovation?
2. Prepare for anything
As you are about to begin the renovation process, it can be important to realize that the timeline or your budget might have to be flexible. In fact, you can pretty much count on it. While certain renovation shows are notorious for dramatizing those unexpected mishaps, those things do actually happen during renovations. It isn’t uncommon to hit an unexpected snag, so being prepared for it will lessen the impact.
While you can have specific timelines laid out with your professionals, even ones with generous leeway can fall prey to equipment problems or shipping delays. These uncertainties cannot be completely avoided, but you can get ahead of the game by having a complete inspection and try to identify any red flags before the work begins.
Hiring reputable professionals can help cut down on potential problems, so choose your renovation team carefully. Get recommendations from your friends and neighbours, read online reviews, and don’t be afraid to check their references and their Better Business Bureau status.
You can also avoid delays by making sure you understand what regulations or permits your project requires. Every city and state code is different, but following the laws in your area will ensure your renovation will go as smoothly as possible, with no load-bearing walls coming down without a plan in place.
3. What kind of flooring do you need?
It may surprise you to learn that not all floors are created equal, and that there are many different kinds of flooring to choose from. While you can certainly have an idea in mind of what kind of floors will look great in your home, you may want to talk to your contractor about what variety may be in your best option.
Some floors require more upkeep than others, so make a flooring decision that will work with your lifestyle. If you have small children or large dogs, you will also want to figure in the potential wear and tear to your floors and choose a more durable option from the range of flooring. Ask a flooring expert for their recommendations on what will work best for you!
Having a professional measure your floor, and evaluate your subfloor and flag any potential issues is worth the time and effort. Other considerations such as your area’s climate may also factor into your choice as some floors don’t work well in extreme temperatures or humidity.
Flooring is just one example, it’s also worth discussing with your contractor about all the materials and paint choices. Should you consider specialty drywall contractors to work in the bathroom? Will the hard water in your area leave your sink stained or hazy? Making sure you are happy with a design is one concern, but making sure it stands the test of time is equally important.
4. It’s all in the detail
Hopefully, your contractor will be able to walk you through what needs to be ordered to complete your project. Feel free to ask as many questions as necessary to make sure that you’re getting all the right things. You don’t want to order a toilet that doesn’t fit in your space, or not enough tile for your backsplash.
It isn’t a bad idea to think about the big picture, and how you are going to use the room when it’s completed. Don’t get so carried about the important earlier steps that could derail your timeline. It’s great to be excited about the finished product but remember to stay focused on the different stages of the project and the role you play in its completion.
It might be useful to create a renovation checklist that oversees the entire process before the actual renovation begins. Create a comprehensive checklist that includes sections for materials, budgets, tradespeople, inspections, council requirements and the design of your home renovation. Tailor your checklist to suit your renovation needs and add to the list as you go. Keep a copy of your checklist to avoid overspending and preventing forgetfulness.
5. Be prepared for mess
No matter how well you think you’ve taped off the area under construction, remember the rule of thumb that dust will be everywhere. As you prepare for your renovation, it’s a good idea to pack away any items that would be destroyed by excess dirt.This means your antique area rug should disappear for a while to avoid complete ruin.
Try to cover all carpets, as your feet can track dust whenever you pass through, and it can be a real pain to clean. Sealing off rooms with zippered plastic can help keep down the dust, but nothing is foolproof. Be sure to cover air vents and try to keep the dust contained. Cover up as much furniture as possible during the remodel.
Getting an air purifier can help keep the dust manageable during the renovation process. You will still probably have to clean and remove the dust from your home when it is complete. Dry dusting is the safest way to clean and make sure the particles don’t damage your walls or your lungs. If you want to avoid getting your hands dirty, hiring a professional cleaner when the work is complete is a safe bet for you to start enjoying your house renovations quicker.
6. Before construction begins
Check with your local authorities to see if building permits are needed for your building project. They may be necessary even if the project is minor renovations. This is important because if a building permit is required and construction begins without it, you could face heavy fines at best. At worst, you could be required to demolish any work that was completed without a permit.
You may need either a planning permit, building permit or both. An accredited building surveyor can walk you through the requirements. You can also check with the local building board or department to see if you need to register your project. The requirements may increase as the project’s budge goes up. Make sure you and/or your builder has the correct proof of insurance for the project.
A building permit application may need to include:
Professionally-drawn plans;
A copy of your land title or deed;
A copy of your planning permit;
Building specs, or specifications; and
An analysis of the site.
7. Pay first, build second
While filing for your permits, you will oftentimes need to pay certain fees. Typically these fees are required when submitting building permits. Again, your building surveyor can help you navigate the fees. The possible fees you will need to pay include:
A building permit fee. This will be in proportion to the total cost of the building project. The fee also varies depending on the project’s complexity.
A government levy or tax on the building permit.
Local filing fees.
You may also need to pay a bond against possible damage.
Some special issues may require you to obtain additional permits. Your drafter or architect can help advise you. Some issues that may require special permits include building on land prone to flooding, on an easement or close to surrounding homeowners’ property.
Once all the necessary pre-building procedures and permits have been filed and the fees are paid, you will be able to begin construction confident that everything is in order not only on your construction site but in the local government offices as well.
8. Tools
Power tools
Sharpening tools
Hand tools
Cutting tools
Toolboxes
Should I do a renovation course?
Lots of people enjoy a spot of DIY or home decorating and dream of fixing up a property, either for their own use or for re-sale. TV home make-over shows often make this look easy and fun, and it can be if you’re properly educated and prepared. You can teach yourself some things from a book or the internet, but the best way to get the know-how you really need is by taking a course.
What you’ll learn
There are different courses available, naturally, so you’ll want to choose one that suits your needs the best. If you’re intending to do a lot of the work yourself, a building course might be more valuable than a renovation course, which generally teaches you the best way to go about hiring other people for the job.
You’ll learn things like how to find the ideal property for renovation, how to source materials and how to sell the finished property for the highest profit. In addition, you’ll learn important skills in negotiating with builders and other tradespeople who you’ll need for your team. Another essential part of a renovation course is learning the logistics, such as planning, budgeting and scheduling. A good course should also have information about the administrative side of things, including planning permission, licenses and taxes.
Choosing a course
If you think that you could do with learning or brushing up on some of core elements of renovating, look at the available courses in your area and choose one that suits your specific needs and interests as closely as possible. Any time and money spent now on the course will save you so much more in the long term. There are some other things to consider when choosing the course, such as the teacher, the aims and the qualification you’ll receive. The teacher is perhaps the most important of these factors, and should ideally be someone with a lot of experience, perhaps even someone who has written a book on the subject.
The aims of the course detail what exactly you should be able to do when you’re finished, what skills you’ll pick up, etc. Some courses will offer a certification, which can be nice to have, but is really a secondary consideration unless you’re thinking of turning professional. So, if you’re thinking of doing some renovation work, no matter the size of the project, don’t rule out taking a course or some kind of workshop. The skills and insider knowledge you’ll pick up will help considerably in both the short and long term.
Power tools to consider
Starting a home renovation project can be overwhelming, but having the right power tools can make the process smoother and more efficient. When it comes to starter power tools for a house renovation, there are a few essential items to consider. A cordless drill is a must-have for drilling holes and driving screws, while a circular saw is perfect for cutting straight lines and angles. A jigsaw is also important for cutting curves and intricate shapes. Popular brands in Australia include DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Certa, Ozito, Dynalink, Ryobi, and Mitre, all of which offer quality power tools that are durable and reliable. By investing in these starter power tools and choosing reputable brands, you can feel confident in tackling your next home renovation project.
Sharpening tools to consider
Sharpening your tools is an essential step to maintaining their cutting-edge and prolonging their lifespan, and of course, efficient renovation jobs. When it comes to choosing the right tool sharpener, you want to be sure that it can handle the specific types of tools you own. The Bunnings drill sharpener is a great choice for anyone with a collection of dull drill bits that need sharpening, while the Ozito multifunction sharpener can tackle a variety of tools, including knives, scissors, and chisels. With the right sharpener, you can rejuvenate your tools and get them back to functioning like new again.
Hand tools
Hand tools have been a staple of construction work for generations, and while power tools have certainly increased in popularity, there is still something inherently satisfying and reliable about using a good old-fashioned hand tool. Innovative designs have brought new features to the market, like the Renovator Better Grip tool, which has proven to be a game-changer for those working on DIY projects. Additionally, the Auspex crimping tool has made wire crimping faster and more efficient. These two tools are just a small example of how even seemingly simple hand tools can provide improved performance and convenience. Whether you’re a professional tradesperson or a weekend warrior, investing in reliable hand tools is a must.
Cutting tools
When it comes to home renovation, having the right cutting tools is essential. Choosing the right tool can make all the difference when it comes to completing your project quickly and efficiently. Here are some of the best cutting tools for home renovation:
1. Ozito Jigsaw – This lightweight jigsaw offers an efficient and reliable way to cut wood, metal, plastic and even ceramic tiles! It features a high-speed orbital action that results in clean cuts even on thick materials. Plus, its dust extraction port helps keep your work area clean while you renovate your home.
2. GMC Chainsaw – This powerful chainsaw is designed for comfort and efficiency with ergonomic handle grips and anti-vibration technology that lets you finish projects faster with less fatigue or strain on your back or arms making it perfect for use in DIY renovations. It also boasts a quick-stop chain brake for added safety during operation!
3. Bosch PKS 1500 – With this highly efficient circular saw you’ll get perfectly straight cuts every time – ideal if you’re replacing floorboards or working with laminates during renovations! The PKS 1500 works at up to 5500 rpm and has an adjustable depth stop so you can be sure of precise results each time!
4. Aldi 4 Stroke Chainsaw – This powerful yet easy-to-use chainsaw is perfect for pruning or trimming branches that may have grown close to walls or outside window frames during renovations as well as larger jobs such as cutting firewood by providing longer run times due to its low vibration four-stroke engine design that reduces fuel consumption and emissions too!
No matter what sort of home renovation tasks you have planned, these tools will help make them easier so you can finish quicker and enjoy your beautiful new space sooner rather than later!
Tools boxes for starters
When it comes to carrying and organizing tools, having the right equipment can make all the difference. Two popular options for storing and transporting tools are toolboxes and tool bags. A toolbox like the Geelong Toolbox is a classic choice, providing a sturdy metal casing and ample compartments for different types of tools.
On the other hand, a tool bag like the Tusker Tool Bag offers a more flexible and portable solution, allowing you to easily pack up and take your tools on the go. Both options have their advantages and drawbacks, making it important to consider your specific needs and preferences before making a decision.
Wrap up
Once you’ve considered these elements of your renovation project, you can take your new knowledge and apply it to creating the home you’ve been dreaming of. Stay on track, on budget, and with a design you love to enjoy your renovation process – or at least the result. Don’t forget to have fun, you’re building your dream home after all – and remember to document the process with plenty of photos to remind yourself of the progress you’ve made.
The key to a great renovation is preparedness and a plan, and now you have more information to make that happen.
FAQs
When should you triple grips?
Triple grips, also known as three-pronged grips, are a type of tool used in various industries for secure fastening or gripping of objects. These grips feature three toothed edges that firmly hold onto the object being gripped, ensuring that it does not slip or move. They are commonly used in the electrical, automotive, and construction industries, among others.
When to use a v grip in shade cloth installations?
A V grip is one of the most important components when it comes to installing shade cloth. It is typically used around the edge of a tensioned fabric or netting system and provides superior strength and stability by creating a secure connection between two pieces of material. It helps ensure that it will remain securely fastened, even under high winds or other extreme weather conditions.