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Building & renovations

The A-Z guide to talking like a tradie

It’s no doubt that at some point, you’ll need to hire a trades or services professional. The technicalities of some trades and services are easier to understand than others, and some use jargon and terms that you may not have heard of before. Whether it’s an emergency job or a planned project, it never hurts to be a little more informed.

Rather than sitting there dazed and confused by the amount of words you don’t know how to comprehend, we’ve put together a handy dictionary of terms to help you learn the lingo.

A

Absorption Field – A leeching or seeping field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) – An ABS is in the form of a black plastic pipe that is used in plumbing for drains and vents.

Adaptor (Plumbing) – A fitting that connects two pipes of different sizes.

Adjustable Hot Limit Stop – This stop restricts the output of hot water in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding, which is done by limiting the swing to the hot side.

Aerator – An insert that is screwed onto a faucet outlet which mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.

Aggregate – Type of crushed rock used as a top layer in some flat-roof applications.

Air Admittance Valve – A device used in plumbing that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter inside the pipe and equalise the pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air Chamber – A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a valve or faucet.

Air Gap – The Air Gap’s purpose is to prevent backflow contamination in drainage systems.

Airbrick – A perforated brick which is used for ventilation, especially for under-floor spaces. They are usually used in older houses to provide ventilation to pantry’s.

Angle Iron – Structural steel bent at a 90-degree angle which is used to fasten or reinforce framing joints.

Arborist – A tree surgeon.

As-built plans – As-built plans show how the space was constructed, including any changes that have been made from the original house plans.

Asbestos – A highly heat-resistant fibrous silicate mineral that can be woven into fabrics, and can is usually used in brake linings and fire-resistant and insulating materials.

Auger (or Closet Auger) – An Auger is a bendable rod with a curved end and is used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.

Whatever home project you’re tackling, it’ll pay to learn some lingo / Souce: LG Builders

B

Back Flow – Back Flow occurs when water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventor – The device used to prevent Back Flow (see above), especially into a potable water supply. It is usually required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pull-out faucet spouts and kitchen sprayers.

Back Pressure – Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Backfill – The soil or gravel used to fill in against a wall or foundation.

Backup – Occurs when there is an overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.

Baffle – An object placed in an appliance to change the direction or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.

Balancing Valve – This is a water heater valve that controls the level of water flow and balances the heat distribution to a number of locations.

Ball Check Valve – A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop a flow in one direction.

Ball Joint – A Ball Joint is a spherical assembly in shower heads that allows it to rotate and pivot.

Ballast – Generally mixed on site with cement to form concrete for the smaller jobs around a building site. It is made up of pebbles and either frit sand or sharp sand.

Ballcock – A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling the tank. Connected to a float via a metal arm, the toilet refills the tank until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve after flushing.

Bannister – This is the railing of a staircase, made up of the hand rail, spindles and base rail. Blow Torch – Used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurised fuel and air to generate the flame for the torch.

Barge Board – A brick cut crossways to give a reduced length. It can be cut in quarters, half or three quarter bats.

Bidet – A Bidet has a similar appearance to a toilet bowl. It is a plumbing fixture used for personal hygiene, which is floor mounted and usually next to the toilet. It consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.

Bleed – The process of draining a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.

Blackwater – Waste water coming from a toilet.

Blowbag – A drain-cleaning device that consists of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. This device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water flows in, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. It is also known as a blowfish.

Blowdown – Occurs when partial venting or draining under pressure, on the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. The pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.

Boiler – A sealed tank where water is transformed into steam for heating or power.

Boiler Feed – A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.

Bonnet – The top portion of a compression valve assembly that holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat the other end of the assembly.

Boxing In – Generally refers to the construction of a timber frame carcass around heating pipes, internal soil stacks etc.

Brackish Water – Contains bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Branch Drain – A fixture used in plumbing that leads to the main drain line.

Brass – A slang word for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.

Brick Bonds – A pattern of bricks to ensure stability of the brickwork – with the most common bond called a stretcher bond.

Brickie – Slang or colloquial language for a bricklayer.

Burst Pressure – Describes the internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.

Bushing – A fitting that is threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.

Buttress – The process of thickening a wall to form a vertical projection to strengthen the wall.

C

Caulking – Describes the task of sealing joints and openings by applying a flexible compound or sealant – commonly known as decorator’s filler.

Cavity Wall – Usually in construction for external walls, Cavity Walls comprises of an inner and outer wall – also known as leafs – with a space between, being the cavity, filled with insulation.

Change Order – A written document which officially modifies the plans and specifications of the construction contract.

Chippie – A Chippie is a slang or colloquial term for a carpenter.

Circuit – In electrical terms, an electric circuit is a path in which electrons from a voltage or current source flow.

Cladding – A covering or coating on a structure or material.

Cleanout Plug – A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access to clear an obstruction that may exist.

Closet Bend – A curved waste pipe that fits under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.

Closet Flange – A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend (see above). It is also known as a Floor Flange.

Collar – A galvanised sheet metal restricting device that is used in conjunction with a plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.

Collar Tie – A horizontal board attached perpendicular to rafter.

Compression Fitting – A type of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube. It is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering.

Contingency – Refers to the backup budget for unseen/unpredictable additional costs during construction.

Conveyance – The legal process of transferring property from one owner to another.

Corbelling – Corbelling is the projection of masonry formed by building successive courses outwards by a small amount to form small steps with each additional course.

Coupling – This is a short fitting used to join two separate pipes.

Courier – A company or employee of a company that transports packages and documents.

Coving – Usually made of plaster, Coving is the moulding around a room at the junction of a wall and ceiling.

Cowl – A short fitting used to join two different pipes.

CPVC – CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, which is a black plastic pipe that can withstand high temperatures. They are mostly used in water supply systems.

Curtain Drain – Trenches filled with gravel covering perforated pipe, acting as a gutter system to remove unwanted water away from a house. The trench is lined with filter fabric to ensure that the perforated pipe remains free of clogs from dirt and silt over the years.

D

Dam – A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the amount of water in the toilet bowl.

De-humidistat – A control mechanism needed to operate a mechanical ventilation system that is based on the relative humidity in the home.

Decking – The timber platform or terrace attached to a house or other building.

Diaphragm – A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the body to regulate the water flow from supply lines. Diaphragms eliminate the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

Diffuser – A device used to reduce velocity and increase the static pressure of a fluid passing through a particular system.

Dip Tube – A tube inside a water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.

Diverter – A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet straight to the shower head.

Dope – Dope is a lubricant that is used by plumbers on pipe threads.

Doublehung – The window frame on doublehung windows are operable – meaning they can move up and down. The sashes on a doublehung windows also tilt in for easy cleaning.

Downspout – A Downspout is a pipe used for draining water from roof gutters. It is also known as a leader.

Drain-Waste-Vent System – A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.

Drip Edge – A non-staining, non-corrosive material that is used along the eaves and rakes to allow water runoff to drip clear of underlying construction.

Drywall – Also known as plasterboard, gypsum board and wallboard, Drywall is the flat surface of most interior walls – to which you apply paint, wallpaper or tiles.

E

Easement – A formal contract which allows a party to use another’s property for a specific job or purpose.

Eaves – The part of a roof that meets the walls of a building, also known as the edges of the roof that hangs over the face of a wall.

Eaves Flashing – The additional layer of roofing material that is applied at the eaves to assist in preventing damage from water backup.

Edging strips – Describes boards that are nailed along eaves and rakes in order to provide secure edges for reroofing.

Efflorescence – Unsightly powdery white salts brought to surface of brickwork.

Effluent – Septic system liquid waste.

Egress – Describes the exit of the home. For example, an egress window is required in every bedroom and basement.

Elbow – A 90 or 45 degree curved fitting, used to change the direction of a pipe run. It is also known as an “ell”.

Escutcheon – A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in a fixture or wall.

Estimate – Describes the anticipated cost of a job, which can include the cost of: materials, labour, construction, remodeling or repair.

Excavate – The process of making a hole or channel by digging.

Exposure – Describes the portion of a roof that is exposed to the weather after it is installed.

F

Faucet – A device for controlling the flow of liquid from a pipe by opening or closing an orifice.

Fitting – Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. They come in many shapes, sizes and connection styles.

Fixture – Describes anything that accepts or discharges wastewater or water.

Flange – The edge or rim at the end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.

Flapper – Describes a rubber flap with a ball-like shape at the bottom of a toilet. It lifts to allow flushing and seals the tank off for refilling. It also allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Flashing – A metal sheet which is usually made of lead. It is used to deflect water at a junction between roofs and walls, or around chimney stacks etc.

Flex Coupling – A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the ends of pipes. It is mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.

Float Ball – A floating device connected to the ballcock inside a toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.

Flow Control Valve – A device designed to reduce the amount of water flow into a plumbing fixture. It is often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.

Flow Rate – The measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Flux – A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. It is applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.

Frog – Concave ‘V’ shaped indent on the top of a brick.

Learn some tradie terms for your next home project / Source: Renomate

G

Galvanising – The process of applying a zinc coating to a finished product to protect it from corrosion. The coating can be applied by

Gasket – A flat device usually made of fibre or rubber, and used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.

Gate – A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe or tunnel.

Gate Diverter – The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.

Gauge – Describes the thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to grades of quality with certain types of lavatories and sinks.

Glazing bar – A thin bar shapes to receive panes of glass within the main frame of a window.

GPF – GPF stands for Gallons Per Flush. It measures the rate of waterflow of toilets and flush valves. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF.

Gravity Operated Toilet – A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.

Gray Water – Waste water from fixtures other than toilets.

Grease Trap – A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. It is usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.

Gyprock – A building material used for making the surfaces of interior walls, consisting of sheets of compacted plaster with a covering of plasterboard.

H

H Clip – A small metal clip formed in the shape of an “H” that fits at the joints of two plywood sheets. It is normally used on roof sheeting.

Hanger – A device used to support pipes.

Hard Water – Describes natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of the presence of calcium, minerals of dissolved solids in a solution – measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.

Hardware – Refers to tools, machinery and other durable equipment.

Hazard Insurance – Insurance that protects against damage caused by windstorms, fire or other common hazards.

Heatpump – This device transfers heat from a cooler area to a hotter area by using mechanical energy. For example, in a refrigerator.

Heating Load – The amount of heating that is required to keep a building at a specific temperature during the winter.

Hearth – Describes the area directly in front of a fireplace that is fireproof. It is usually made out of brick, tile or stone.

Highlights – A light spot, area or streak on a surface.

Hip Roof – A type of roof that is formed by sloping roof planes on all sides.

Hip Shingles – Types of shingles used to cover the inclined external angle that is formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.

Hose Bibb – An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.

I

I Beam – A type of steel beam with a cross section in the shape of the letter “I”. Typically used for long spans such as a double garage door.

ID – Stands for Inside Diameter. It measures the inside width of a pipe.

Impeller – A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. It spins at a high speed, which draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.

Incandescent Lamp – A type of lamp that employs an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat.

Insulating Glass – A window or door that insulates by having a sealed air space between two panes. It is also known as Double Glass.

Insulation – To insulate is to protect something by interposing material that prevents the loss of heat or intrusion of sound.

Interceptor – A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.

Interior Finish – The material used to cover interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.

Interlocking Shingles – A type of roofing shingle, which is shaped and installed so that adjacent shingles lock each shingle into place.

Irrigation – Describes a lawn sprinkler system.

J

Jack Stud – A stud that has been cut down to be placed above and/or below an opening. It provides support to the lintel trimmer and sill trimmer.

Jamb – Describes a side pot or surface of a doorway, window or fireplace.

Joinery – The wooden components of a building, such as the stairs, doors and door and window frames – viewed collectively.

Joint Compound – A term used in both plumbing and carpentry. In plumbing, it is a material applied to threaded connections to help prevent leaks. In carpentry, Joint Compound is a wet gypsum material that is applied to sheetrock joints.

Joist – A length of timber or steel supporting part of a structure of a building, typically arranged in parallel to support a floor or ceiling.

Jumpers – A type of water pipe installed in a water meter pit, or electrical wire that is installed in the electric house panel meter socket before the meter is installed.

K

Keeper – The metal latch plate on a door frame where a doorknob plunger latches.

Keyless – A light fixture made of plastic or porcelain that operates by a pull string. They are generally found in attics, basements or crawl spaces.

Kilowatt (kw) – The metric for 1000 watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit that is used in measuring electrical consumption.

kPA – A metric unit for pressure, where 100 kPA = one atmosphere.

L

L Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a blue strip. Type ‘L’ copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type ‘M’.

Laminating – The process of bonding two or more layers of materials.

Lattice – A framework of criss-crossed wood or metal or metal strips that form patterned spaces.

Leach Lines – Leach Lines are pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field; a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.

Lintel – A horizontal structural device that supports the load over an opening such as a window or a door.

Load-Bearing Walls – Non-load-bearing walls are walls that simply divide rooms. They are able to be knocked down or relocated.

Low Consumption Toilet – A class of toilets designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. They are also known as “water-saving” toilets.

Louver – A vented opening that leads into the home, that has a series of horizontal slats.

Lumens – Lumens is a unit of measure for total light output, which is the amount of light that falls on one square foot.

M

M Tubing – An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a red stripe.

Main – The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. It is also referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.

Making Good – A general term referring to the repair of plaster and decor after. For example, forming a new doorway into an existing wall.

Manifold – Describes a fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.

Mapp Gas – A colourless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.

MCL – Stands for Maximum Contaminant Level, and describes the maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.

Metal Fatigue – A type of breakage of metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.

Mezzanine Floor – Means an extra floor, possibly inserted between the floor and ceiling of a very tall room.

Mitre Joint – An angled joint that is similar to that in a picture frame.

Mullion – An upright post between window frames.

N

Nail Inspection – A type of inspection that is made by a municipal building inspector after drywall material is hung with nails and screws.

Natural Finish – A type of finish that is transparent, which does not seriously alter the original colour or grain of the natural wood.

Nesting – The method of reroofing with new asphalt shingles over old ones in which the top edge of the new shingles is butted against the bottom edge of the existing tab.

Newel – Vertical post at the top and bottom of a staircase to support the handrail.

Nipple – A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.

No-Hub Connector – A connector for a no-hub iron pipe that consists of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps.

Nogging – A short piece of timber used to stiffen timber partition walls horizontally between the vertical studs.

Non-ferrous – A term used when something does not contain iron.

Non-fibered Aluminium Roof Coating – A thin but efficient reflective barrier that is designed to reflect the sun’s harmful rays and to prolong the surface life on roofs.

Non-fibered Roof Coating – A coating that gives added protection to low-sloped roofs, as well as metal and masonry surfaces.

Nosing or Bull Nose – The rounded edge of a stair tread projecting beyond the riser or the finished edge of a window board.

O

O-Ring – A rubber washer that is rounded instead. O-Rings are used in valve systems to create a watertight seal.

Oakum – Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with an oil or other waterproofing agent. It is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.

OD – OD stands for Outside Diameter. It measures the outside width of a pipe.

Outrigger – Describes the extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. It is usually characterised by a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.

Overhang – An outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof, which is the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outdoor wall.

Overflow Hood – The decorative hood concealing the overflow on a bath drain.

Overflow Tube – Describes the vertical tube that exists inside a toilet tank that directs water in the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow.

P

Panel Beater – A person whose job is to beat the bodywork of motor vehicles.

Parapet – The low wall at the edge of a roof.

Partition – A structure dividing a space – especially a light interior wall.

Party Wall – A wall separating two buildings owned by different people.

Patio – An outdoor area, usually paved, adjoining a house and used as an area for lounging or dining.

PB – Stands for Polybutylene. It is a bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.

PE – Stands for Polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line.

Pebble Dash – An external wall which is rendered, then finished with stones or pebbles applied to the render.

Pergola – An outdoor structure designed to shade the area.

Persuader – Slang name or nickname for a hammer.

PEX – Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. It is a flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE (see above). In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.

Pilaster – Projecting part of a square column which is attached to a wall.

Plain Tile – A rectangular-shaped flat roofing tile.

Plaster – A gypsum or lime-based mixture added with water that is applied to walls or ceilings to create a smooth hard finish when dry.

Plasterboard – Prefabricated sheets of plaster between two layers of paper for applying to walls and ceilings.

Plinth – Projecting base to external walls. It is also used to describe the board around the bottom of kitchen units.

Q

Quarry Tile – An unglazed floor tile, typically of a reddish-brown colour.

Quarter Round – A term that is typically used in the flooring industry, which is a convex moulding that contains a cross section in the form of a quarter circle.

Queen Closer – A brick cut in half lengthways which is also referred to as a closer.

Quick-setting cement – An asphalt-based cement which is used to adhere tabs of strip shingles to the course.

Quote/Quotation – The price provided by a service provider to complete the job specified.

R

Racking Back – This is the practice of building the ends of brick walls to a height of several courses, which essentially provides a level string line for filling in the courses between both ends.

Rafter – A structural timber rising from eaves to ridge to support pitched roof coverings.

Raking or Raking Out – This describes the task of removing old mortar from in between brickwork to allow for new mortar to be applied.

Rebar – This term is short for “reinforcing bar”. It refers to the ribbed steel rods that are placed in concrete foundations and retaining walls that give the structure extra support.

Reducer – A fitting that allows different sized pipes to be joined together.

Relief Valve – A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in a system.

Relieving Arch – An arch that is constructed above a lintel or beam to take the weight of the wall above.

Remodel – To remodel something is to give it a whole new purpose. For example, converting a coat closet into a powder room.

Render – The external sand-cement coating for walls.

Renovation – Renovation is making something that is old; new and improved. For example, updating the master bathroom with new tiles and fixtures.

Restoration – Returning something to its original state, such as pulling up the carpet and sanding and polishing the hardwood floor.

Return – A plumbing fitting with an 180 degree bend.

Ridge – The top of a pitched roof.

Riser – A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.

Roof Pitch – Describes the slope of a roof, usually expressed as an angle or ratio.

Roof Truss – Prefabricated structural timer framework to support roof covering.

Roughcast – Describes an external wall coating consisting of a cement-based render with either stones or pebbles mixed into the mortar.

RSJ – Stands for Rolled Steel Joist, which is an ‘I’ section steel beam.

S

Scald Guard – A type of valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology.

Scale – A thin coating of layer on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent the transfer of heat.

Sediment – The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank, which can also be known as lime.

Septic Tank – A type of tank that is used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. They are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.

Shutoff Valve – Valves that are installed under sinks and toilets and are used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. It is also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop of Supply Stop.

Siphoning – The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.

Sleeve – A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.

Soft Water – Water that has been treated so that is has low mineral content.

Soil Pipe – A pipe that carries waste from toilets.

Solder – A member of the legal profession who is qualified to deal with conveyancing, wills and other legal matters.

Sparky – Slang term for an electrician.

Sweep – A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.

T

T&P Valve – A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.

Tailpiece – The section of a pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.

Tee – Describes a plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T”, used to connect three sections of pipe.

Tee Fitting – The fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90 degree angle.

Teflon Tape – A type of white tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. This tape possesses non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.

Timber – A type of wood prepared for use in building and carpentry.

Trap – Describes the curved section of a drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom.

Trap Seal– The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.

U

Ultraviolet Degradation – The reduction in certain performance limits that is caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet light.

Undercoat – The coating applied before the finishing or top coats of a painting job. It is also known as the Prime coat.

Underlayment – A secondary layer of roofing that is water resistant. It is installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles.

Union – A fitting used in plumbing that joins pipes end-to-end so that they can be dismantled.

Upholstery – The process of fitting furniture such as sofas and chairs with springs, webbing, padding, fabric or leather.

V

Vapour Retarder/Barrier – A substance that prevents the transmission of water vapour.

Veneer – A thin layer of wood that is laminated or glued onto a surface to give the beauty of solid wood.

Verandah – A place that leads to the outdoors, which usually has the characteristics of a spacious, long, narrow structure which also has room for tables and chairs.

Valve – A device that regulates the flow of water.

Valve Seat – The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vent – A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air, and also lets air into the drain system to keep the pressure balanced.

Voltage – A measure of electrical potential.

W

Water Closet – Another name for a toilet.

Water Table – The location of the underground water. It is also the vertical distance from the earth’s surface to the underground water.

Water Hammer Arrestor – A device that is installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that occurs when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing a loud banging noise in the pipes.

Wax Ring – A seal that is located between the floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.

Weatherisation – Describes the work on the exterior of a building in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling. It can involve caulking cracks, installing weather-stripping and installing storm windows and doors.

Wet Vent – Describes a pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains – it also connects two or more fixtures.

Whirlybird – A roof ventilator to cool the house.

Wye Fitting – A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45 degree angle.

Y

Yoke – Describes the location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes.

Z

Z-Bar Flashing – Prevents water from getting behind the brick and into the home.

Zone Valve – The device placed near the heater or cooler which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the property.

Zoning – A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property.

With this dictionary of trades and services terms, you are able to become more informed when making decisions on different jobs and projects to come. Knowing exactly what the service provider is talking about can save you a world of hassle, time and even money.

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Automotive

A guide to car window tinting

Have you seen cars with tinted windows and thought it would be a good idea to try it yourself? If you want to do it right, there are certain things that you need to have in mind, and it needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing. There’s nothing worse for your car’s aesthetic than doing a bad tint job. If it results in a streak of bubbles between the window and the translucent film that is the tint, you’re in trouble. Here, we’ll go through what to take into consideration when opting for car window tinting.

Look out for bubbles

It is essential that your view is clear. So, if your tint job results in big bubbles all over the place, it certainly won’t do. However, even very small bubbles can create distortion. This is why you need to find a professional for the job, as they will make sure that the risk of them appearing is minimised. Also, if you opt for a low-quality tint, it will take about six months for bubbles to form, as the adhesive that holds the tint will begin to break.

Source: Tintacar Victoria Park

A dark shade doesn’t necessarily mean top quality

You must keep in mind that the fact that a tint is dark doesn’t necessarily mean that it does the best job of blocking heat or providing UV protection. When your car is in the sun, put one hand behind the window and the other in the sun in order to tell the difference. Generally it is true that the darker the tint is, the better it will reduce heat, but there are solutions such as high-quality ceramic tints and spectrally-selective tints that can do an even better job. This basically means that a lighter shade of something of high-quality can work better than a darker shade of something cheap.

Know your local tint laws

How dark your window tint can be really depends on where you live. Do some research and find out which country or state laws for car window tinting apply where you are located. For example, Oneflare’s car window tinting experts point out that Australia has strict laws when it comes to this. Make sure that the professional installing the window tint on your car knows these laws. If you install window tint that is way too dark, you may end up being fined and wasting money on removing the tint and getting another one that is appropriate.

Contact local car window tinting experts

Tint the windshield

Applying a very light tint to the windshield is allowed in most places. This is where you should also check local laws. If it’s legal in your location, make sure you do it. It’s the largest size window on your car, so if you tint everything else and leave it uncovered, it will kind of defeat the purpose of tinting in the first place. This is the case where you should apply the previously mentioned high-quality tints that aren’t necessarily as dark.

Avoid purple

When your tint goes purple, it means that it has aged to the point that it has lost its protective properties and that it needs to be replaced. It’s most common with tint made out of cheap materials, as they simply start to break down.

Tinting your car is a fancy way of making a statement, and also an essential aspect of protecting the inside of your car from the negative effects of the sun. Make sure that you keep these points in mind when getting your tint job. Also, it’s far better that you get a professional to do it for you than to do it yourself.

Categories
Construction

A guide to white ants

What are white ants?

White ant is a mistaken term used by individuals that do not recognise the physical qualities of termites. There is no such thing as a white ant, only termites that appear similar in movement and social behaviour.

Signs you have white ants

White ants or termites are destructive little creatures. They segregate around moist areas and chew wood in service until there is nothing left but splinters of wood. The naked eye quickly sees this once the affected area has been uncovered. Other signs that you may have white ants include:

Soft floorboards

A weakened area in your floorboards could be a sign that there are termites in floorboards and are nested beneath the surface. Worse yet, the beams may have been compromised and are weakening.

Hard to open windows

Moisture can form around the frame of windows and become a breeding ground for termites. Once they have set up a colony, the window frame can weaken and begin to stick where the wood is no longer stable.

Termite droppings

Termites will kick the droppings out of their nest, leaving a pile or a trail of dark substance that is powdery. Some resemble tiny pellets that are called frass. Tracks of frass may also be evident going up walls or along joints.

Galleries in wood

If you find dips in door frames, skirting boards or window architraves, this could be evidence of termites. They will chew a fresh board and leave small galleries in the wood that are noticeable.

Dozens of white ants crawl through old wood.
An example of white ants creating galleries in wood / Source: First Choice Pest & Termite Control

Mud trails up the side of home/building

Other signs of termites are skinny mud trails that run up the side of a home, inside or out. This is caused by droppings being scooted from piles outside of their cavities.

Faint noises coming from the walls

Faint sounds can often be heard from behind the walls that sound like tapping or chewing. While the noises may seem tiny and muffled, the termites are busy at work on your wood.

Benefits of white ant treatment

You may think that eliminating the colony of termites will rectify the problem. However, it is a lot more complicated than this. White ants will continue to return in search of food and stumble upon the same area as the others found. Keep these points in mind.

Effectiveness

A termite treatment must be sufficient for the problem to be solved. There are flying white ants that are probably searching for new breeding areas. The termite queen can lay up to one thousand eggs per day, so using an effective method of containment and trapping is imperative.

Prevention

Termites come in from the outside, so this is where prevention methods should begin. Keep dampness away from exterior house walls. Be sure to have regular inspections of white ant damage to make sure termites have not found another route inside your home. Keep water sources as far away from the foundation as possible.

Several white ants destroying some wood.
Regular inspections are critical to prevention / Source: Quality Pest Management & Solutions

Protection

Experts on white ant treatment will set up physical barriers to prevent and protect your home from returning termites. This is an excellent way to protect from another invasion, but having routine inspections will protect you from other areas becoming vulnerable.

Why do I have white ants?

Do not think that you have done something to draw white ants to your home. These insects are just on the hunt for food and shelter, and your property may be tempting. Termites need cellulose (wood), moisture and warmth to survive. Many species of white ants are already living underground and are in search of food. When building begins for a new structure, wood and concrete are the most common types of foundation. They will find this wood and make plans to move right in with you.

What is the difference between white ants and termites?

Ants and termites are similar in how they look, move and live. However, there is no such thing as a white ant. It is a termite. People began referring to termites as white ants because of the similar bodies, but you will never find an ant that is white or clear.

How often should I check for termites/white ants?

It is recommended to have your house inspected for termites once a year. However, suppose you are recovering from an infestation of termites. In that case, the specialists may place you on a management program for more frequent visits. If you have never had treatment for white ants and want to be safe, one to two years is recommended. Always be assertive to the fact that termites can move in anytime, so keep a sharp eye out for the possibility of termite damage.

Contact local pest control experts

How to get rid of white ants

Getting rid of white ants is no easy feat. It takes a professional with the right knowledge of what type of termite you have. There are over 300 different species of termites, and some are more dangerous to wood than others. There are also DIY products on the market. Still, they will help very little in tracking their habits, closing off their ability to gain entrance and to prevent any future activity. Always call a pest control expert and make sure they have the following credentials:

  • Licensed in the trade
  • Insured against damage to the residence
  • Work guaranteed for a specific length of time
  • List of references and recommendations
  • How long in the business
Categories
Pets

A guide to dog grooming

Whether your dog needs a simple quick clip or a full-on makeover, the feeling of embracing your knot-free, freshly groomed pet is blissful. We know it’s important to find the right pet groomer who can provide the best type of care for your four legged friend, so here are three tips to ensure a smooth pet groom.

When to groom your dog

According to pet groomer, Jane from Puppy Love, the best time to organise a groom is when your pet’s matting or knotting, is closer to the top of the fur. If the knots are close to the skin, it’s likely that the dog will need to be shaved by grooming from underneath the knots.

Do your dog a favour and organise a groom while the knot is not yet close to the skin.

Before and after grooming / Source: Amy’s Furry Tails

How often to groom your dog

The frequency of your grooms is an individual choice, depending more on lifestyle and preference. If it’s a clip, aim for every 10-12 weeks, but for a wash, dogs with easy to manage coats can go 6-8 weeks. Take care of your pet’s fur with frequent brushing and washing between grooms.

Keeping your dog calm during a groom

To help your pet enjoy the pampering experience, make it as comfortable as possible by keeping a favourite toy or blankie handy.

It’s important that you let the pet groomer know beforehand of any anxiety or nervousness in your pet so the expert can do their best to accommodate. It can involve helping your pet get used to the sound of the clippers or sometimes, it’s as simple as a little love. Jane says that before every pet groom, she loves getting on the dog’s level to connect with them personally.

On a visit to the groomer, try and make your dog as comfortable as possible with familiar toys or blankets / Source: Totally Groomy

After the groom is done, don’t forget to reward your pet with long cuddles or appease your dog’s love of food with a tasty treat during the groom.

Contact local pet groomers

Clipping

Clipping is the most popular pet grooming request on Oneflare, followed by bath requests. While clipping seems easy to imitate, Jane recommends a professional clip rather than a simple DIY.

“Most owners pick up some clippers because they see it’s easy but they can end up cutting their dog, developing a fear of being groomed.”

If you need a simple cut between professional clips, soften the nails first with a bath or gradually clip little by little. There are many grooming tools at your disposal, ensure such as Bristle brushes, wire-pin brushes, shedders, rakes, blades and each tool has their place. Dematting your dog is often a crucial first step if your dog has long coat.

Categories
Bathroom & laundry

3 timeless bathroom design ideas

The bathroom is a commonly used and renovated area of the home, but with an array of stylish faucets, tubs and vanities, keeping your bathroom trendy can be a constant battle between the new and outdated. If you are planning to refurbish or redecorate your bathroom space, consider these enduring bathroom designs that will add a classic touch that will never grow old.

1. Natural beauty

Embracing eco-friendly designs and natural materials in your bathroom space is a lasting trend that will remain a popular option for the way it transforms a sterile space into a refreshing refuge.

Source: KTR Creations

Natural materials such as stone, are an all time favourite that adds a warm and serene appeal to your bathroom. Neutral hues such as grays, creams and shades of brown nicely complement a bathroom environment that is eco-friendly.

Source: Origin Bathrooms

Modern additions such as the vertical garden, can also enhance a green inspired design but as a simpler alternative, indoor plants make a suitable addition. Natural textures and wall features also add an organic element to your bathroom.

2. Wood finishes

Timber floors, wooden beams or bamboo touches are a bathroom design you won’t grow weary with. By combining a modern and rustic look, wood is the perfect addition to your bathroom space.

Source: ESTEEM Constructions

Dark timber creates a sleek, modern element in your bathroom but lighter panels of wood add a rustic and vintage finish to your bathroom. You can either use timber as a wall feature, or used throughout your statement pieces like on the vanity.

Source: Studio HmD

3. Black & white

Monochrome in black and white, is a classic and elegant design that will never go out of style. Embrace black and white with elegant tiles and shower covers.

Source: Home Extensions Builder

Contrast porcelain white sinks with black trimmed frames and toilet seat covers, or go bold with statement pieces.

Modern white bathroom with black shower features
Source: Studio HmD
Categories
Cleaning

How to keep your home office clean

Covid-19 has many of us working from home to stop the spread of the pandemic. Although it can be exciting to design your home office, it is also essential to understand the importance of cleanliness when deciding the layout. A clean home office is vital to ensure you and your family stay healthy and for your peace of mind. One of the most important areas in your office is your desk. You might assume that it is clean because you are the only one touching it, but if you have a family, this area can become a way to transmit viruses. The following checklist will help you make sure that your desk and home office is as clean as possible.

Source: TidyMe

Home office DIY cleaning checklist

Hiring home cleaning services when you work from home is one way to maintain a high standard of hygiene during these times. However, if you do not have one, here are some cleaning home office ideas to get you started.

One of the first things that you should do is to assemble your DIY cleaning tool kit. Commercial cleaning products are designed to eliminate viruses, but they are not always available. This list offers some natural solutions that you might already have in your pantry. Here is a list of some things that you might want to include.

Dry Products

  • Baking Soda
  • Bucket
  • Duster and dusting cloth
  • Lint Roller
  • Mop
  • Salt
  • Scrubbing sponges
  • Rags and microfibre cloths
  • Vacuum

Wet Products

  • Antibacterial wet wipes
  • Commercial disinfect products for surfaces
  • Lemon juice
  • Vinegar

How to make your own natural all-purpose cleaner

You might have noticed the list contain some ingredients that can be easily found around the home. These are great if you would like to avoid using harsh chemicals around your home. Below are two different recipes for an all-purpose cleaner you can try out at home:

Ingredients for all-purpose cleaner #1

  • Vinegar
  • Water
  • Lemon

Instructions: Mix together 1-part vinegar, 1 part water and lemon to boost your natural cleaning agent. Pour into a spray bottle for ease of use. Note: Avoid using this cleaning solution on granite as it may etch your stone.

Ingredients for all-purpose cleaner #2

  • ½ cup detergent
  • ½ cup vinegar
  • 4 cups of hot water
  • 4 teaspoon borax
  • 8 drops of essential oil

Instructions: Mix together all the ingredients until combined. Once the water has cooled down, pour the liquid into a spray bottle to start cleaning.

How to deep clean your home office space

A clean home office design is the key to making house cleaning and office cleaning easier. Everything should be arranged in a way that it is easy to wipe down quickly. This is true whether you hire house cleaning services, or you will do it yourself.

Source: Compose Visuals

One thing that you need to be aware of is that there is a difference between regular cleaning, deep cleaning and disinfecting. Cleaning means removing dirt and dust from surfaces. Organisms, like viruses, can land on dust particles and travel throughout other areas of the house. Deep cleaning is a more thorough version of cleaning. For your home office, this may mean emptying your drawers and cleaning inside them or cleaning behind your furniture.

Disinfecting involves using products that destroy viruses and bacteria. All three types of cleaning are necessary to remove viruses from the home because dirt and dust give organisms many more places to hide. Here are a few tips for antiviral sanitation of your home office if you plan to do it yourself.

Keep your electronics dust-free

Your keyboard and monitor can be kept dust-free by using a microfibre cloth. You should never use wet wipes or products that are not designed for computer monitors because it can remove the protective coating. You should also never use a wet wipe on your keyboard because the liquid can get into the keys and damage it. Using a brush attachment on a vacuum can help you get dust from the cracks and crevices of your keyboard. This will also help to preserve its life span, too.

Tips for cleaning your keyboard – You can purchase an air duster bottle to blow out dust, dirt and crumbs that are stuck deep in your keyboard.

Regularly clean your desk with spray

It is recommended that you wipe down your desk with a spray that kills viruses at least once a day. If you are sick, or someone in your household is sick, it might be a good idea to do it more than once a day. Keeping your desk clutter-free will make the job easier.

Vacuum or sweep under your desk

You should vacuum or sweep under your desk at least twice a week to keep it clean. This is particularly important if you eat at your desk as crumbs and food scraps can fall to the ground.

High traffic areas

It is a good idea to vacuum or mop high traffic areas at least once a day. Viruses can get picked up on shoes and transported into the house where they can travel to other areas of the home. This will at least reduce them and minimise their travel. It might be a good idea to mop your entrance every time someone comes in from the outside.

Tips for keeping your floor clean – Avoid wearing shoes inside your home and opt for comfy slippers to keep your feet warm indoors.

Lamp and dusting bulbs

Do not forget to dust your lamps and lightbulbs at least once a week. You also might want to disinfect light pulls and switches once a day too. These are items that are touched by many people every day, and they are an area that we often overlook when cleaning.

Keeping wires tidy

Keeping your wires tidy with cable ties or other organisers helps you keep them dust free and makes them easier to clean regularly.

Ways to disinfect your desk

In a 2018 study, it was found that desks are an area that harbours a large number of pathogens, even more than a toilet. Professional cleaning companies will often give a quick disinfecting wipe of items on the desk, but many will not move excess paper and clutter to do it. You should have a place for your files and papers that are off your desk. At the end of the day, it is a good idea to wipe the items down with wet wipes. Here is a list of things to be sure not to miss when cleaning your desk:

  • Clean under desk protector pad
  • Clipboards
  • Desk drawer pulls
  • Filing cabinets
  • Headphones and headsets
  • Message boards
  • Pens and pen holders
  • Phone
  • Printer and FAX (especially the keypad)
  • Wi-Fi routers and equipment

Supporting & hiring local cleaners

As you can see, home cleaning to control pathogens is more complicated and time-consuming than regular cleaning. Hiring a professional cleaning service might be the best way to make sure that everything is done on a regular basis. You can also hire a professional cleaner to tackle the cleaning for the rest of your home.

There are environmentally cleaning services that use green cleaning products for regular disinfect cleaning and experience in residential cleaning. Here a few tips to help reduce the spread of coronavirus when interacting with your home cleaning professional.

  • Keep your distance – When communicating, make sure that you keep the recommended distance from others.
  • Use email – Use email to transmit cleaning lists and instructions when possible.
  • Masks and glove – Make sure that your cleaners wear masks and gloves for both your protection and theirs. Leaving around hand sanitiser and soap is also a good idea.
  • Notify your whereabouts – Try and stay in one section of your home, while your cleaner is cleaning the rest of your house.

Contact local cleaners

Other things around your home to deep clean & disinfect

The focus of this article is on keeping your home office clean, but since your home office is part of your home, keeping the entire home and its surroundings clean is very important. Here are some other items that need disinfecting to prevent viruses from entering your home.

Car

Even though you should be avoiding leaving your home during this time, you need to be cautious about bringing the virus home with you and only grocery shop and run errands that are absolutely essential. Your car is one way that viruses could make their way into your home.

It might be a good idea to give the steering wheel, hand brake, and any other surfaces that you touch a good wipe down whenever you get into your car. Keep some hand sanitiser with you to clean your hands before touching your wheel. When you must go out, it is essential that you keep your car clean, too. Here are some areas of your car not to miss.

  • Carpet and seats (especially if you have pets or small children)
  • Dust between air vents
  • Indicators and buttons
  • Steering wheel and hand brake
  • Wipe off the dash and doors

Mobile phone

One of the dirtiest items that we own is our phones. We are constantly putting it down on dirty surfaces and then picking it up and putting it next to our face. Others pick it up when we show them something, and it is often passed around from person to person. You should use a special product made for cleaning phone screens. Just like your computer monitor, cleaning your phone with a regular wet wipe can remove the protective coating. It is a good idea to clean it several times a day, and as soon as someone else picks it up as possible.

Yourself

Keeping yourself clean is another essential factor. You need to keep your distance from others, wash your hands frequently, and develop an awareness of cleanliness of yourself and others. Staying home during coronavirus is essential. Keep an eye out for announcements from the government to learn more about how you can prevent exposure to Covid-19.

Categories
Gardening & landscaping

How to get rid of crabgrass

Lawn and gardening enthusiasts know how crabgrass can creep its way into your tended green space–and how frustrating this can be. Managing it proactively is important to keep your lawn looking its best. This blog post will share some tips on how to remove crabgrass yourself, so you can enjoy a lush, green lawn all year round.

How to identify crabgrass

Crabgrass is a weed that plagues many lawns in Australia | Source: Shutterstock

Crabgrass is a common lawn weed that can quickly spread and take over your healthy grass if left unchecked. Also known as crab weed, it thrives in warm climates and produces seeds prolifically throughout the year. This weed often takes root in areas of bare soil, compacted ground, or where the lawn has been disturbed and often requires more work and professional gardening help.

Crabgrass is a collective term for several species, but the most well-known is Digitaria sanguinalis, which was introduced to Australia in the 19th century.

Early detection is crucial in managing crabgrass effectively. Here’s how to identify this troublesome weed:

  • Colour: A distinctive yellowish-green hue, contrasting with the healthy green of your lawn.
  • Texture: Leaves are coarse and rough to the touch.
  • Leaves: Hairy leaves on the stem.

Why is it important to remove crabgrass?

If you think crabgrass is just an annoying weed with a funny name, you are sorely mistaken. It’s a serious threat to your lawn’s overall well-being as well as your property’s value, by extension. Left unchecked, this invasive weed can quickly take over your lawn, creating a patchy, unappealing sight.

Proper year-round lawn maintenance can help keep crabgrass at bay | Source: Cityscapes Pools and Landscapes

Many property owners are curious to know how to get rid of crabgrass in their lawn because it produces a massive amount of seeds, which also readily germinate and spread. This rapid proliferation allows it to outcompete other grass species and rob them of water, nutrients, and sunlight. This, in turn, weakens your lawn and makes it more susceptible to disease and damage.

In addition, crabgrass also makes a shallow, mat-forming root system that fails to anchor the soil effectively. As a result, it increases the risk of erosion and creates uneven surfaces that can be dangerous for foot traffic. This ‘mat’ also prevents air and water from reaching the soil, further degrading the quality of other desirable plants.

Removal methods: how to get rid of crabgrass

If prevention is no longer an option, here are four tips on how to eliminate crabgrass (in your lawn or otherwise):

1. Proper lawn maintenance

a red lawnmower mowing a lawn
Trimming your lawn keeps it healthier | Source: iStock

Lawn mowing pros recommend mowing your lawn frequently and maintain the recommended lawn grass height. Deep watering once a week is better than light daily watering. If the soil feels moist, you don’t need to water. This will keep your grass healthy and strong, making it harder for crabgrass seeds to gain purchase.

Avoid fertilising in summer, when crabgrass is most likely to sprout; the nitrogen in fertiliser actually encourages growth. Pay close attention to local weather conditions as they play a big role in lawn maintenance.

Cover bare soil around your lawn with mulch to prevent weeds from popping up. And if you have a gardener or landscaper who looks after your lawn, ask them to rinse off their gear before they start working. This will help prevent the spread of crabgrass seeds from other areas.

2. The organic method

In Australia, you can explore effective natural methods on how to get rid of crabgrass to help reclaim your lawn.

First, reseed any bare spots in your lawn as soon as possible. Don’t let those patches sit around! Get them reseeded right away to prevent crabgrass from taking root.

Second, keep your lawn tall. Aim for a grass height of about 7.5 cm. This will shade out crabgrass and make it harder for it to thrive. A professional lawn mower can help you keep the desired lawn grass height.

Lastly, mow your lawn regularly, especially in the summer, to slow down crabgrass growth. 

3. Pre-emergent herbicides

a close photo of crabgrass
Use herbicides to keep crabgrass from sprouting | Source: iStock

Pre-emergent herbicides, which come in granules or liquid form, create a protective layer on the soil surface, stopping crabgrass before it can sprout.

To be effective, you need to apply these herbicides well before the growing season, such as when you fertilise your lawn. After applying a pre-emergent herbicide, water the lawn thoroughly. However, you might need to apply the herbicide a second time, depending on the situation.

Always follow label instructions and use the correct amount for your lawn size to get the best results. If you’ve recently reseeded your lawn, wait at least three months before applying any pre-emergent herbicides.

4. Home remedies

You can try a few home remedies to tackle crabgrass. Sprinkling table salt can help, but be careful not to use too much, as it can damage the soil. You can also pour boiling water directly on it.

A known crabgrass killer (and other unwanted lawn weeds) is a white vinegar and soap solution. Mix four litres of white vinegar with a few drops of soap, then spray it on the crabgrass. This can gradually kill it off.

How do I prevent crabgrass growth in my lawn?

A healthy lawn is the best defence. Below are some practical tips:

  • Proper lawn maintenance is key to creating an environment that’s less inviting to this pesky weed. 
  • Regular mowing at the right height helps keep your lawn thick and strong, making it harder for crabgrass to get a foothold.
  • Deep watering once a week, rather than light daily watering, encourages deep root growth, making your lawn more resilient. 
  • Avoid fertilising in summer—the hot summers in Australia makes crabgrass grow much more quickly, and the nitrogen in typical fertilisers just fuels the infestation.

As a last resort, you can opt for artificial grass. It eliminates the problem entirely by replacing your natural lawn, thus removing the environment where crabgrass thrives. That said, artificial grass can be a significant investment and may not be suitable for everyone.

Say goodbye to a weedy lawn!

From natural remedies to professional advice, we have explored all the ways on how to kill crabgrass and enjoy a lush, green lawn. A lawn without a single crabgrass plant is not only visually appealing, but it’s also healthier and more resilient.

If you’re struggling with how to get rid of crabgrass, don’t hesitate to seek advice from a local gardening and lawn care professional. They can help you develop a tailored plan to keep your lawn looking its best year-round.


FAQs on how to remove crabgrass

What will kill crabgrass but not the lawn?

Pre-emergent herbicides are your best bet for preventing crabgrass before it sprouts. But don’t just get the first weed killer for crabgrass that you find.

For existing crabgrass, selective herbicides, like those containing quinclorac or triclopyr, target crabgrass specifically, leaving your desirable lawn grasses unharmed. Always read the label carefully and follow the instructions for safe and effective use.

Other post-emergent herbicides, such as those containing fenoxaprop p-ethyl and mesotrione, are also formulated to control related species.

Will vinegar kill crabgrass permanently?

Vinegar can help stop crabgrass, but it’s not a permanent solution. This is because it kills the above-ground parts of the weed but won’t necessarily kill the roots. For long-term control, you’ll need to combine vinegar with other methods, like regular mowing and re-seeding bare spots.

Is it better to pull or spray crabgrass?

Pulling crabgrass can be effective for small infestations, but it’s time-consuming and difficult to remove all the roots. For larger infestations, many landscapers and gardening professionals recommend crabgrass herbicides, which are a more efficient solution. However, it’s important to choose a selective herbicide, such as those mentioned above.

Categories
Real estate & moving

Top tips on moving a fridge the right way

Moving a fridge isn’t as simple as it may seem, special precautions need to be taken to ensure the move is made safely and securely. If possible, we recommend hiring a professional moving company to avoid potential damages. However, this isn’t always an option, so here are our tips on how to move a fridge safely.

If you’re determined to move with a hired truck, follow this easy step-by-step guide for you to overcome the following common problems:

  • moving a fridge without food waste
  • moving a fridge without scratching the floor
  • moving a fridge up and down stairs
  • transporting a fridge to a hired truck
Care needs to be taken when moving your fridge to ensure no damage / Source: Mindful Boutique Builders & Renovators Perth

Start preparing the day before moving the fridge 

Before the heavy lifting begins, the refrigerator needs to be ready. The day before you’ll need to empty, defrost and clean the fridge in preparation to be moved. Take an ice scraper and a spray to clean the fridge freezer and ensure it is completely dry before proceeding, this will prevent any avoidable damages during the move. The fridge will need to be switched off the night before.

Avoiding food waste

In the weeks leading up to your move, take a quick inventory of your refrigerator’s contents. Organise your meals to use up everything in the fridge to avoid throwing anything away. Note that some non-perishable food can be kept for a few days at room temperature (mustard, jam, etc.) You can safely store them in cupboards.

Moving a fridge downstairs

Moving the refrigerator downstairs can be very tricky, so knowing how to move without hurting your back is essential. Here are some critical tools to assist you with the move:

  • A dolly
  • Ropes and/or ratchet straps
  • Packing material
  • Duct tape

Make the fridge as light as possible before trying to move it. Clean the inside and remove the shelves. Wrap the shelves in bubble wrap or packing paper and store them safely. Another option is to leave the shelves in the refrigerator and tape them. Be sure that the tape you use does not leave marks to save on extra cleaning at your final destination.

Secure the doors with straps so that they don’t open up during transport. Tape the power cord so that it doesn’t get caught up during transportation.

Many hands make light work, so recruit friends to help – it’s at least 3-person job to move a fridge downstairs. Tip the refrigerator away from the wall then slide the dolly underneath. Go downstairs slowly, moving the fridge taking it one step at a time bottom first.

It’s essential to keep the fridge standing upright. The refrigerator has a cooling element in the back that is designed to work standing upright. If the fridge is laid flat, the fluid in the element can travel against the grain, causing permanent damage to the fridge.

Transporting your fridge onto the moving truck 

After securing the doors, wrap the fridge with two layers of bubble wrap and tape it from top to bottom like you are taping a cardboard box. Safe taping is essential to keep the bubble wrap on the fridge during the transportation. Your fridge is now ready to be moved!

Prepare a dolly or hand-truck; we recommend you to move your fridge using these two handy tools. Place the dolly underneath the fridge and fasten it to the fridge using a rope or ratchet strap with a width of 6-8cm. It is ideal to have someone supporting the dolly and someone else pushing from the back side of the fridge to get it on safely.

Bear in mind that you should keep the fridge vertical while carrying and moving it. The question has been debated for a long time. Is it better to carry your fridge horizontally or vertically? It is difficult to definitively decide without studying the specific design of the fridge and without information on the refrigerant used during the cooling cycle. One thing is sure: the risk of damaging your fridge will be lower by transporting it vertically or at an angle greater than 45°.

Be very careful while carrying the fridge up or down the stairs, communicate well with each other and don’t rush.

Should you hire professional fridge removal services 

Just like moving a washing machine, keep in mind that a fridge is a heavy household appliance that can weigh up to 120kg. Fridges do not have handles for you to get a grip on while lifting and moving.

To avoid all the difficulties of moving your fridge on your own, you can hire professional removal services to help you out. Oneflare professional removalists are covered by insurances and experienced enough to know what to do from the get-go.

Others safety tips on moving a fridge

Take care to keep the refrigerator as vertical as possible during transport. Do not tilt the refrigerator on its side as this can cause permanent damage to the cooling mechanisms. Wait 2-3 hours before restarting your fridge to allow the liquid to flow back into the compressor.

Read the refrigerator’s manual for important safety tips and warnings before moving to avoid potential problems – remember every fridge is different.

All fridges have moving instruction visuals on their cardboard packages. These explain the do’s and don’ts very well so pay attention to those instructions.

Categories
Bathroom & laundry

A guide to buying & installing a shower base

When you are renovating your bathroom and installing a new shower, you will need to choose the material that will be used for the shower base. You have a few options to choose from.

What is a shower base?

If you do not want the currently trendy wet room style, then you will need a base for your shower. Some bathrooms feature a walk-through style area that is completely tiled, but if that is not the look you want, then you may wish to install a cubicle-like setup with a shower base in it.

Source: Architest

There are a few specific benefits to choosing a shower base option over others. First, it is easy to install and very easy to clean – since there are no grout lines, the cleaning process is quick and painless. Additionally, you will not have as many problems with the waterproofing failing, something that is common with tiled shower floors. A shower base is great if you do not have a lot of space in your bathroom, and if you want an updated look without a lot of renovation work, this is a good option as well.

Types of shower bases

There are different types and styles of shower bases available on the market. You may want to choose the most common types of base, which is square in shape. You can, though, choose angles and curves as well. Some are designed to fit well in the corner of the room, making it easy for you to use as much space as possible. You can also choose from a range of colours, giving you a bit more design freedom. Also, these bases tend to be safer than other options if you choose one with a non-slip surface.

Materials

Most types of shower bases are made of polymarble or acrylic. Some are made of steel, glass, or ceramic, which might be more difficult to find. Keep in mind that some surfaces can be very slippery as well, making them less safe overall, especially for children and the elderly.

Shower bases are easier to clean than tiles as they don’t have grout lines / Source: CK Contracting

Polymarble shower bases

Polymarble shower bases are commonly used as they are solid and long-lasting thanks to being coasted in a 2mm hard gel-coat resin. They are also stain, scratch and chemical resistant, and easy to clean.

Polymarble is also easy to refurbish, revive worn surfaces by simply sanding or buffing the surface. They are also usually a more expensive option.

Acrylic shower bases

Acrylic shower bases are light and durable, and a cheaper alternative. They are extremely low maintenance and easy to clean – you simply need to wipe down the the surface. However, acrylic bases generally come in set sizes, so custom dimensions and drain locations isn’t always possible.

Contact local bathroom renovators

Installing a shower base

As far as installation goes, because shower bases need support and a mortar bed for proper installation. So while it is possible as a DIY job, if you’re not a confident renovator, it’s best to turn to a professional.

Cost of installing a shower base

When costing out a shower base, take into consideration the material, shape, and size. You can pay anywhere from $150 to $1000 for the shower base alone, and then must factor in the cost of installation.

Categories
Heating & cooling

Attic insulation removal and cleaning DIY

This article is going to cover the three steps needed to make sure you remove insulation from your home in a safe and effective manner;

  1. How to prep this attic cleanup
  2. How to safely vacuum the area you are working in.
  3. How to properly dispose of this product.

Attic insulation needs to be replaced immediately if there are signs of rodent infestations. They can spread disease and cause structural problems to your property. Removing the old insulation can be quite a pain to do alone, but if you follow these guidelines, the process will be a lot easier.

If you are doing it by yourself, you need to make sure you focus mainly on your own safety before anything else, whether you are removing loose attic insulation for replacement with new, removing due to water damage, or just changing insulation types! Everyone should know how to remove their own home’s insulation if need be, because if you don’t know how you might end up spending too much money for something that can be done for free by yourself.

If you plan on DIYing your insulation removal, ensure you have the correct protective gear / Source: Enviroflex Insulation

Insulation removal equipment

  • Fully covered clothing
  • Gloves
  • Goggles
  • Large garbage bags/trash bags
  • Tarp or blanket
  • Vacuum
  • Ladder
  • Respirator/dust masks

Proper safety attire for your attic cleaning

Before we begin, let’s go over the proper safety attire. When it comes to insulation, it is important to keep your body protected and keep insulation inhalation to an absolute minimum. You need to protect yourself by wearing the right equipment, dressed in a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and both your safety goggles and respirator. Attic insulation can be dangerous if you aren’t wearing the clothing for the job.

Step one: Know the type of insulation you have 

The very first step in removing loose attic insulation is to determine what kind of insulation you are dealing with. It is important to figure this out because many older homes contain an insulation that has a grey, almost paper-like appearance and is very harmful to your health. If you cannot identify the insulation you are working with you need to find out if the insulation is comprised with asbestos by using a testing kit. If so, the best option for you to remove the insulation is to call for a local insulation expert to remove the insulation. View our Asbestos removal cost guide if you think you might have asbestos in your home.

It’s important to know the type of insulation you are removing / Source: Active Vac and Insulation

When getting ready for insulation removal it is important that you don’t allow any damaged, mildewed, or mouldy insulation to fall and settle throughout your home. To prevent anything from going wrong, make sure that all the doors/attic opening are closed and place down your tarp in the area you are working in and tape it down to secure it.

To work in the attic safely, you should lay down some large wooden boards across the joist so that you are able to walk throughout the attic while removing the insulation. You will want the tarp to be placed in the area you will be unloading the insulation into the garbage bags. You need to have a clear path from where you are unloading the garbage bags full of insulation to the exit so that you aren’t spending too much time handling the bags, keeping minimum interaction.

Step two: Cleaning, vacuuming and disinfection

Before you start this next step, make sure that your clothing thoroughly covers all of your skin and you are wearing gloves and a respirator/mask. You will start by vacuuming all of the loose insulation throughout a small area and empty the canister into the garbage bags until the area is clear of loose insulation, then move on to the next area of the wall. With a wet-dry vacuum you are going to need to dump the insulation remnants from the vacuum canister into the trash bags every five minutes or so while vacuuming. After all of the attic walls are cleared, you then need to vacuum all of the attic joists thoroughly.

Contact local insulation experts

To start this, you’ll want to begin the process at the farthest end of the attic and make your way to the exit going backward. Getting stuck in a corner while you are stirring up insulation into the air is the last thing you want to do. Make sure you also check it twice along the floor joists to guarantee that all of the tiny insulation pieces aren’t infiltrating the air.

If you don’t own or have access to a shop-vac, then another option for you is to rent a HEPA filtered industrial vacuum. They are much higher powered than a standard shop-vac and will get the job done in much less time. It does this because it does two jobs at once; it sucks up the loose insulation and has attached a hose that routes the insulation from the vacuum straight to the trash container or garbage bags outside. This will keep the area you are working in a little bit neater and keep air infiltration to a minimum.

Step three: Insulation disposal

The third and final step in removing your attic insulation is the disposal of it. Disposing of the loose insulation you’ve collected in the garbage bags is important because of the damage that insulation can do to the environment if released. This is why you should contact your city’s waste management center to determine what the best option for dumping your insulation. It might even be as simple as leaving it out to the road with the other household trash bags, but there might be a specific dumb site that they refer you to go to for disposal.

Blown in insulation

Once you finish cleaning up the attic and remove the old insulation, it’s not a bad idea to add in more insulation if you don’t mind working up a sweat. To make sure you use enough insulation and seal up the attic bypasses, it’s still recommended to hire a local insulation professional for a long-term payoff. A proper insulation helps to save energy bills.